christophert
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Posts posted by christophert
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]Hi all,
I have a WAECO PerfectCharge IU1512, I believe it to be Model No 915-012TB I have been running three 110amp leisure batteries from it for years - one of those used as the starter battery.I am going to replace the batteries and will be fitting 130amp or 140amp x three. I'm trying to ascertain if this model is powerful enough to do the job.
I emailed an agent for WAECO as can't contact them directly. They replied with this. So I'm guessing their answer is it won't do the job. If that's the case, it's strange how I've ran three 110amp batts off this for years, granted, one was the starter battery. So I'm guessing I'll need a more powerful battery charger??
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Then it has a calorifier. Its just the boaty name for the hot water tank which can be heated by engine cooling water passing through a coil, in the same way a boiler heats a domestic hot water cylinder in a house.
Thanks, David. Now, just need to get my gauges working.
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Topics merged. Title edited to remove block caps and add engine type.
Thanks
Daniel
Thank you, new to this site and learning
How can I tell if my boat has a calorifier? From what I can see, it has a hot water tank and an immersion switch, the water can also be heated from the engine/
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Sorry, having trouble finding it
Ah, got it. Thanks all
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Hi all, I started a thread titled Confused. It was about which thermostat to fit to my BMC 1800 engine. I had some good replies and very useful information of some of the members here. Then when I tried to respond, a page came up saying 'Sorry, we couldn't find that'
The thread is still there, under General Boating, but the replies have gone, everything had??
What's all that about? Any ideas
The thread was only started about half an hour ago.
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The general recommendation is to use an 82 degree stat if you have no calorifier, but only a 74 degree one if you do, to stop the domestic water being heated too hot. However I would say you can use the higher temperature stat with a calorifier, provided it has a themostatic mixer valve that limits how hot the water to the taps and showers are, by mixing in enough cold.
In my own experience a BMC 1800 needs the bypass type stat, with the extra disk on, and if you use the wrong type on a system that requires it you will have problems. However maybe not every 1800 needed or used the bypass stat, I'm not sure. If when you have the stat out, and peer down the housing it has a hole at the bottom with a flat seat around it for that extra bit of the stat to close down on to, then that's what you need. No hole at the bottom, then you mustn't try fitting a bypass stat
However none of this has anything at all to do with a temperature gauge not working, as has already been pointed out.
Thank you, Alan ... A calorifier! Just off to google, back in a while
The general recommendation is to use an 82 degree stat if you have no calorifier, but only a 74 degree one if you do, to stop the domestic water being heated too hot. However I would say you can use the higher temperature stat with a calorifier, provided it has a themostatic mixer valve that limits how hot the water to the taps and showers are, by mixing in enough cold.
In my own experience a BMC 1800 needs the bypass type stat, with the extra disk on, and if you use the wrong type on a system that requires it you will have problems. However maybe not every 1800 needed or used the bypass stat, I'm not sure. If when you have the stat out, and peer down the housing it has a hole at the bottom with a flat seat around it for that extra bit of the stat to close down on to, then that's what you need. No hole at the bottom, then you mustn't try fitting a bypass stat
However none of this has anything at all to do with a temperature gauge not working, as has already been pointed out.
Mine's just got a hot water tank, but I'll double check the thermo as recommended though
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Changing the thermostat wont make the gauge work. Get in there with a meter and find out where the volts have gone. The way you are going you could replace the whole engine and they still wouldn't work.
A meter thingy!! With numbers and stuff ! erm ... ok. The thing is, 'cos the engine is so old, built around nineteen canteen and made from wood and stone, I thought it'd be good to have a spare thermo anyway.
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Has anyone had any experience with this? Or has anyone any suggestions. Many thanks
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Evening all :-)
I have an 1800 BMC Thornycroft engine, and as the temperature gauge and the oil pressure gauge are not working, I thought I'd start with the obvious and replace the sensors/switch and the thermostat, so went searching.
There are more than one type of thermostat - a 74 degree and an 82 degree. To complicate matters further, 74c Standard type without shut off and 82c with bypass shut off disc ??
I just wanna buy a thermostat! Now I'm confused... then that's easily done
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I now need to find out if my existing battery charger is powerful enough to do the job.
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Are the batteries connected to each other still? If yes, the good one is holding up the voltage of the bad one. Can you post a photo of the batteries showing how they are connected?
No, still disconnected and separate from each other.
Batteries will always recover some voltage when the load is removed.
This suggests to me that your batteries are knackered and in urgent need of replacement.
Leaving them in a discharged state will ensure that they get sulphated, even if they are not (unlikely)
Yep, I'm sure they are knackered and will be replacing them. Thought it strange they went back up to 12.7 and settled at that. I've learned so much from this thread about batteries and their workings, but for me there's still a lot to learn
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One more question please, so I can get my head around this. It's been three days with the batteries disconnected and no charge going in. Yesterday they were drained down to 12.2 using halogen bulb. today they are sitting at 12.7. If the batteries are shot, should they not be reading a lower volt?
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Yep, had a quick look at manual. This shouldn't be a problem. I have a hammer and chisel, and a screwdriver somewhere. I have a MA degree in Creative Writing so maybe I can re-write it so it makes sense to me :-)
And why have I chosen a peanut shaped like a duck as my avatar ??
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Here's the manual for the Chinese battery monitor. It seems very complicated!
Complicated!! Oh my!! Is there a Janet and John version for me?
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Doesn't much matter - both batteries have had it.
They should have lasted for hours and hours.
If we say they lasted 2 hours, then x2 = 4. X4 = 16
So the batteries now have a capacity of around 16Ah each. Down from 110Ah. That's why they only last a short while: very little capacity.
New batteries it is then. But not before I get the basic monitor fitted which I ordered today. Again, a big thank you
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Final score
10am this morning, 24 hours after disconnecting batteries.
UsedHalogen 12v 50w spot purchased from Wicks store.
Battery 1 – 13.1 amps Using spot – amps drop to 12.2 in four minutes.
Battery 2 Experiment interrupted by someone ‘mooring’ their boat in marina, hitting mine and sending equipment all over floor.
Restarted with battery 2 at 12.9 amps Using spot – reached 12.2 after 1 hour sixteen minutes
Re test on battery one – amps back up to 13.1 Using spot - dropped to 12.2 after 2 hours five minutes
Need to do the maths bit now which I'm rubbish at
Strange how battery 1 dropped so fast on first test
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Sounds like Batt1 is totally shot. Batt 2 will hopefully give you a few hours.
Note that you are measuring voltage not current so your readings are 12.2V not 12.2A.
The spot is drawing less than 4A so the battery should last many hours. When you finally get to 12.2V multiply the time taken to get there by 2 (because 12.2V is 'half full') then multiply by 4 (the amps drawn by the spot). The answer is your current battery capacity in Ah (Amp hours).
Tony
Good!
Thank you Tony, so if one is shot, I'm guessing it'll drag two down with it when they are connected together?
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Battery 2 seems to be taking forever
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Great. Now check the rating of the bulb and connect it to each battery in turn whilst measuring the voltage. When the voltage drops to 12.2v disconnect the bulb and let us know how long that took and what the bulb wattage is. We can then tell you the approximate capacity of your batteries. You might find that a few minutes after disconnecting the bulb the voltage rises a bit. If so, reconnect for a short while and repeat the excercise, adding the time.
Tony
Hi, Tony
10am, 24 hours after disconnecting batteries.
Using Halogen 12v 50w spot purchased from Wicks store.
Battery 1 – 13.1 amps Using spot – amps drop to 12.2 in four minutes.
Battery 2 Experiment interrupted by someone ‘mooring’ their boat in marina, hitting mine and sending equipment all over floor.
Restarted with battery 2 at 12.9 amps Using spot – amps at 12.4 and have been for past 20 minutes
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Ok, just to clarify, if my inverter is 3000w and I'll be replacing batteries with possibly 2x or 3x 140amp and having 600w of solar, would a 300am shunt be sufficient or should I get next one up and go for 500amp shunt??
PS, the battery monitor looks a good bit of kit I reckon for the price
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OP might as well get a Chinese one that records Ampere-hours (Ah) other wise it is only useful when he's sat watching it.
Here's one on eBay but it will take a while for delivery and customs.
Aha ! I have one I bought a long time ago, think it was in 1872. The one I have is only 30 amp so guess no good. I'll look at this one
This guy has one, and seems very happy with it
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I was looking at a 500a shunt as going to replace batteries with 140s x3 and wop 600w of solar on. The shunts are so expensive!
£10.75, free delivery, three wire connection:
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/0-300V-500A-DC-Digital-Voltmeter-Ammeter-LED-Amp-Volt-Meter-500A-Current-Shunt-/171727425179?nav=SEARCHThat's cheap! How good it'll be we don't know, but it'll certainly do for starters. Thank you WotEver
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If you will use 3kW of power your inverter will take 300Amps from your batteries. If you can limit yourself to using only a few small items then it will be a lot less. You need to get a battery monitor that is able to record the highest current you are likely to use WHEN NOT ON SHORE POWER. What is the biggest user you have, in kW or W? Maybe a vacuum cleaner? You should use a stovetop kettle i.e. gas.
Yep, that's the frustrating part of all this. I hardly use anything when out and about. Kettle is gas, vacumm rechargeable so charged up before going out. We don't even use the microwave, but gas cook everything. Only thing used is led 12v lights and 12v TV and they are limited to use. I've just put a halogen bulb accross the batteries for a few mins to take out any froth. They are now at 12.7.
Battery Charger Powerful enough?
in Boat Equipment
Posted
Alan, thank you. It served very well feeding the three 110amps, but feel it may struggle on the higher amps. Most time spent in the marine, but next summer want to spend as much time as poss out of it. Also will add 600w of solar at some point.
Thank you, it's starting to make more sense now