nastypoker

Thanks for the help guys. I think I may have found somewhere that will do it.

Yes, it just needs surveying for insurance purposes as well as my own peace of mind!

I am working abroad and am unable to get back to my boat any time soon. I need the boat taking out of the water, surveying and blacking and any obvious repairs to be done to the hull if required whilst it is out of the water. The boat is located in Northamptonshire in a private marina on the River Nene. Are there trustworthy reliable companies/people that would be able to do this sort of thing?

Thank you

Is there somewhere I can look at new builds and how much they cost to build? Ideally with all sorts of variations, 60ft, 70ft, wide, narrow, luxury, basic. etc Also, if anyone knows how much it would cost roughly to have a 60ft widebeam made and fitted out with the basics, that would be great. Thanks

Not tried on my boat yet but I use Jotun at work in horrible environments and they offer some really good paint solutions. I am looking at using Jotamastic 87 primer and Hardtop XP topcoat.

Yes, I have had a quick look and even 2kva size is expensive. I think a "proper" GI is probably the best option. The logic behind it makes sense to me now. Cheers

Ok thanks. Your answer to no. 2 is the same with most basic galvanic isolators though. You could rig up a simple continuity circuit to monitor the diodes to see if they have failed and set an alarm off if they do. Anyway, I see your point and this isn't something to do cheaply unless it was absolutely safe. Would you be happy with a galvanic isolator or do you use a isolating transformer? Any recommendations? Cheers.

Question for the electrical people on here. Galvanic isolators are very simple yet overpriced devices. From what I understand, there is a need to lower the potential between the earth shore and the hull and this can be done using some diodes in parallel pointing in different directions (Because AC). Now this item seems like it would do the job perfectly. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IXYS-DSEI-2X-61-06C-MiniBLOC-ISOTOP-600V-60A-twin-diode-module-fast-recovery-/331965795473?hash=item4d4ab40c91:g:9NMAAOSwJqpXoNtl 1. Is this suitable? 2. If not why not? 3. Is my understanding correct in that there is a potential being generated by the water and the hull of around 1V so as long as the diodes forward voltage is 1.5v-2v then no current will flow unless there is a fault shorting the hull somewhere. 4. If an electrical device is operating on board, current is flowing through the diodes so does that mean the voltage drop is what is preventing electrolysis of the hull?

Hmmm, I have some of these. They have been great for me providing protection and they have been narrow enough that I haven't needed to lift them at all although I haven't done any single width locks.

Oh dear! What is the problem with fenders whilst moving? I am new to this!

Ah yes, I hadn't thought of that. I suppose for those doing less cruising and more marina based it could still be an option. Especially is you use fenders whilst travelling.

So now that 2 part epoxy paint is becoming more popular than good old fashioned bitumen, colour becomes a variable in the decision making process. Has anyone seen anything other than black on a narrowboat hull? How did it look? I am contemplating a dark blue but I am sure someone somewhere must have gone all out on something a bit crazy.

Cheers for all the tips. Shot blasting is definitely my preferred option and buying a compressor and blasting kit might actually be reasonable considering the expense of all the other good options. It would also be useful to have a compressor anyway. I just need to check whether my dry standing will allow blasting.

Yay another blacking thread! I need to remove the blacking from my boat and I want to know what the best method is. In an ideal world I would shot blast it back to bare steel as I am planning on using a two pack paint. Using a wire brush on a drill will take forever. I am willing to spend money on decent kit if it is worth it. I have seen the "Bristle blaster" but for £300+ it is pricey. I wouldn't mind except it is tiny and will take forever to do a 45ft hull. Any ideas? I believe my boat currently has a bitumen coat on which is just the worst. Is there a particular solvent or method I am missing that will make this job a lot easier?