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Posts posted by Dave Bebb
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Thanks lads looks like Ii will be looking for a new battery charger one that can charge 4 110 and that can be permanently
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1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:
If the photo shows all the controls and indicators then no, do not leave it permanently on because it is probably an old car one that has no voltage control so given time it would ruin the batteries. The web seems to indicate it has a crude meter the other side of the lable, that is another indication its not voltage regulated.
You can use it but monitor the voltage. When it gets to about 14.5 or 14.6 turn it off but NOTE the batteries may not be fully charged. If left on the voltage is likrly to keep rising until you either load the batteries or you boil the acid.
Thanks
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1 hour ago, Dave Bebb said:
Just been to the NB today. To check battery's as I had 2 on charge 1 is good the other one not holding a charge ,put the other 2 on charge I will check the in the morning ,so the dud one must have been taking the other 3 down ,going to renew all terminals and put all new cables on hope this sorts my problems out
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Just been to the NB today. To check battery's as I had 2 on charge 1 is good the other on holding a charge ,put the other 2 on charge I will check the in the morning ,so the dud one must have been taking the other 3 down ,going to renew all terminals and put all new cables on hope this sorts my problems out
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i did have the engineer but he only looked a the cables running to the 12 volt fridge and he said they are fine ,going to get all new battery terminals check all battery cables and put Vaseline on the terminals dont think half the battery's were delivering power ,when trying to get at the battery's is awful and nearly 71 years old dose not make it easy. filled all with distilled water and put 2 batteries on charge ,might be no good now as some sells where bone dry
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Think I have found one reason why my voltage dropped at the 12 volt control panel oh dear some terminals nuts where loose and completely full of corrosion, and it took six pints of distilled water to top up four 110 battery's think the battery's were in some desperate nead of maintenances PS getting to my battery's is a right pain
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Just join the RCR let them fix it if you brake down
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Ha Ha its finely sunk in thanks lads
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Just had a look what i need to wire from battery's to the new 12 volt fridge 10 mm2 hell thats think stuff ,might get away with 8 mm2 i will have to see how fare away the fridge is away from battery's
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What I am going to do is pull all the domestic battery's out and check for distilled water while there out and clean all the terminals then back put vasoline on them ,and work back through the wiring to the fridge and check all connections for loose or corrosion
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52 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
Just remember that the likely faults are unlikely to cause burned wires so all may look OK but still be undersized.
is the voltmeter still dropping to 9v on fridge start up? If not it might just have been a single odd reading for some reason.
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I know a marine electrician that has been working on boats all his life as its a bit to complicated for me
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1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:
That is what I am unclear about. It is also why it would be very wise to test the voltdrop between each battery post (not the terminal) and the fridge on both positive and negative. As I said in my first post on this subject I have been unable to actually measure the voltdrop/voltage when the fridge starts and only get a small kick on the needle. The starting surge is only a few microseconds long so I find the fact that your measurement it perplexing and do wonder about the meter.
However that is only a sideline. What concerns me and a number of others who know is to do with the reliability of the fridge in longer term use, especially when off a shoreline or some form of external generator. The basic symptoms you posted plus an informed assumption about where the voltmeter is connected still suggests undersized wiring , loose/dirty connections or a resistive switch between batteries and switch panel.
I think it would be wise to take some voltage measurements as the fridge start at the battery posts, input to the switch panel, output of the fridge switch and at the fridge but it could be difficult to actually get a reliable measurement unless the meter will store maximum/minimum values. It woudl at least give an idea about the reeliability of the boat's meter.
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Yes I understand what your saying ,why did the fridge not cut out when the voltage dropped down below the cut out point very strange never thought of that one PS the next time I am on the nb I will take a video of what happens , I am not connected to shore line all the time only when I want to charge the battery's once a month .Just had a thought I am going to put a volt meter where I have connected to the fridge to the wires from the control panel and see if I get a voltage drop from there
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The wires from the back of the new 12 volt fridge are the same size as the wires running to the fridge from the control panel ,and the voltage drop is only for one second until the fridge starts up i can live with that
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On 29/10/2017 at 22:26, WotEver said:
You’re right to be worried. The cabling somewhere (everywhere?) is way too small. My guess is that the fridge has been wired from a distribution board which was never cabled for such a heavy load instead of being wired direct from the batteries (or updating the dis board feed & fuse).
Fergot to mention on the boats control panel with all the boat electrical things and all have what they work like horn lights there is about 20 and on is for fridge so must be right or why is it there ?
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20 hours ago, WotEver said:
Too much guessing. Until OP tells us how it’s wired (which appears unlikely) the only thing we know is that it’s been done poorly.
Had a Marine electrical engineer to have a look at the fridge and control panel and he said it's just fine safe as houses , and he checked all the electrics as well all ok
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17 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:
I think you might be confusing the transient start up current the OP is talking about, with the steady state current when cooling. The start up current might typically be ten times the steady state running current, hence the massive volt drop for half a second or so when starting.
That's what I was trying to say but some people might have misunderstood me ,been to the boat again this afternoon to check on fridge all working fine only set the fridge on number 1 fridge been on for about 15 hours friezer working good , and inside fridge nice and cool ,check battery power and still reading 12.7 so not using much power to run it ,I have got a solar panel on the roof glad I made the switch from 240 to 12 love it
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31 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:
Is your volt meter connected directly to your batteries terminals or from the distribution board
Not sure I don't on how to check it was like this from new ?
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Hi all just fitted new 12 volt fridge to replace our 240 volt one which I had to run of the 3,000 watt inverter when I turn on the fridge on at the 12 volt. Control panel the volt meter on the panel drops to 9.6 volts from 12.7 just for two seconds then goes back to12.7 again ,just shows you how much power It takes to start up a 12 volt fridge PS running off 4 110 battery's
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All sorted new 12 volt fridge in and working ,wired it up and put in place left it over night turned on next morning working fine ,just bought a new 12volt avtex tv and avtex aerial fitted them so now all 12 volt on the boat will not have to run the 3,000 watts inverter which took a lot out of my battery's
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- I have read the instructions know mention of leaving it to settle,that's why I asked you people that's I will let it settle for awhile before switching it on to be on the safe side thanks for all your comments Dave
Battery chargers
in Boat Equipment
Posted
I need a charger for permanently conectod when not on the nb