Horace42
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Posts posted by Horace42
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A hand rail that can be gripped tight in a fist-like clench (and useful for other things) is far more safer than a handrail that can only be held finger-tight.
There are many combinations of design and variations on a theme, but back to basics....it's a handrail - something to hold on to.
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It was years ago. But we got 'stuck' just yards into the tunnel. Handrails scrapped the roof. Took the hint. Backed out, moored up and walked.
Having said that, it might have been the Leek tunnel I remember...
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1 hour ago, LadyG said:That is the way I read it too, it's seems counterintuitive.,
I claim the the prize for longest Word of the Day.
.......and the day is not over yet..........!
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Horses for courses........really ! .... it seems more a question of common sense - not efficiency.
Even when the engine is running when moored (why ?) it does not make sense to use the battery/inverter for heavy loads like the washing machine, tumble dryer, microwave oven, immersion heater, etc
...and when the battery is flat (in minutes not hours) - to use the travel power to charge your phone.....
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2 hours ago, Mad Harold said:
Tubular handrails seem to be more common on older boats,(built in the 70s and 80s.) I prefer them as you can get your hand around them and get a really secure grip.
I agree with the 'grip' aspect - and very important - and wouldn't be without it.
I have an old boat of late 70's and it has a tubular handrails (square section) welded to the roof a foot in from the edge, giving nice balance for walking along the gunnel. Useful to tying things to anywhere along the length (fenders for mooring etc)
Our friend's boat had a gutter type channel - that only allowed 'finger tight' grip - not much use for weak hands.
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Without fully comprehensive cover I would have to stand the whole cost of the loss of my boat - such as for fire and theft - but that is a risk I can chose to accept.
But what if the loss is due to accidental sinking - as happens to boats all too often it seems. Although it would be annoying and sad, it would not be a financial disaster for me (my boat is not worth much due to rust).
But what would be a problem would be the high cost of urgent recovery by contractors for salvage work (eg. sinking in a lock or bridge hole) - and then charged to me with little choice by to pay it.
However, it seems maintaining navigation is something of direct benefit to thirds parties - is salvage embodied in CRT requirements as part of the mandatory insurance.
Fully comp is OK, but jeopardised by rust conditions, in my case, related to maintenance (or lack of for re-plating), that has no immediate effect on 'seaworthiness' but if not carried out could be used by the insurance company to invalidate a claim......and worse.... apparently could also invalidate a big payout indemnity third party claim.
Just asking.
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7 hours ago, MHS said:
Hi Horace42
ive sent you a PM
Thanks. I have replied to the PM.
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On 11/03/2019 at 14:53, ditchcrawler said:
Just have to remember to use the right ones, I had a pair of the other type of piling hooks made like that, get them right and they didn't budge, get them wrong and they popped straight out
People on the BCN seem to use a lump of flat bar about 2 foot long and maybe 2" wide with a ring at the top and they just drop them down the back, never seem to come out.
You are right about using them the right way round. I didn't realise this until I used them the wrong way round.
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2 hours ago, MHS said:
Have you had your double vision investigated? If not a visit to your optician may show up the need for prism in your specs to help your eyes work together. It would also rule out anything more serious.
Thanks for your kind thoughts. I am under full care of the medical specialists....it is something that cannot be cured by specs (they say) so I have to live with it.
Although in the course of time I expect advances in computer aided vision devices would cure it.
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1 hour ago, Slim said:
I've got them!
When I mentioned them before someone posted a photo of someones. I made mine out of 6mm bar in about 10 minutes each (and I'm no welder). Were I making them again I would use 8mm.
No bending, no wet knees.
I've never seen them available commercially
I improvised mine using a straight length of wood bound with tape to the long side of the safety pin.... but only partial success...the wood was a bit too thick and stopped the pin going through the gap - especially when blocked with weeds.
I guess an 8mm rod would solve the problem for both of us.
...and also as a refinement... as I found the pins could somehow become un-hooked and slip out during use (weird geometry of angles, pull and height) I twisted the pins so the hooks were at right angles to each other. .... I used a blow lamp to get the shaft of the pin red hot... and then to make a left- and right-handed pair ... that then are used front and rear to suit which side the boat is moored.....
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3 hours ago, alan_fincher said:
It's hard to use goats chains though without some crouching or kneeling, (and often a wet grassy stain on one knee!")
........And the stinging nettles on the knuckles...!
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2 hours ago, Athy said:
Yes, that can be bloody irritating, can't it? For example, if I'm typing a list of points, point a, b, c etc, I can't type "B" followed by an end bracket, as I would normally do, because it comes out as
. I would indeed like to know why, so that I may discover a means of avoiding it.
Well that could explains 'weird' things happening when mistype as I often do.
I've got a close-up double vision 'thing', so I see 20 fingers and 2 keyboards overlapping and displaced by about 1/2"). I suppose that is a 1 in 4 chance of hitting the right key....l perhaps I should say 'write' key.
Even so, I did not know anything about notifications, and clicking where Athy said in #215, I get dozens of them.
Sorry if the 'notifiers' are waiting for a response from me.
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3 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:
This may have been posted but as the thread is 6 pages long I cant see it. A Volockies point of view of boaters http://www.narrowboatworld.com/11348-volunteering-not-so-happy-go-lucky
That was an interesting link. Can't say I have heard of Narrowboatworld before.
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3 hours ago, Detling said:
It may well be an insurance write off as it is an easy way out for the insurance company, repair may still lead to claims for items damaged many years later and a write off closes the risk. This happened when my car got caught in a flood we got it going with new oil etc but the insurance decided as all the electrics etc had a thin film of mud on them which would hold moisture, items would have a severely shortened life. Watch out for this boat for sale soon.
Yes, I worked on a fire damaged building. The real cost was in repairs to electrics caused by water damage - not due to the the burnt bits.
But isn't fire and theft excluded from basic CRT insurance requirements.
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3 hours ago, Keeping Up said:
No. The minimum requirement is to be covered for the cost of any damage that you may cause, similar to "third party" car insurance. Most boaters choose to pay a higher premium to cover the cost of damage to their own boat, such as in this case, similar to "comprehensive" car insurance.
Some insurance companies won't accept comprehensive cover for old boats with rusty hulls, even fire and theft are excluded from the basic cover.
Is there a 'special' wording used to ensure salvage is included in basic cover.
Like "wreck salvage" being spelt out - as mentioned by carlt #41 above,
hat .
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31 minutes ago, Naughty Cal said:
The boat is now raised
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Hopefully the insurers sort it out quickly.
How are the costs of things like this covered by insurance ------ is it in the minimum required by CRT ?
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3 hours ago, Athy said:
I once taught a boy like that. He sat in the middle of the front row in his form, but had a remarkable knack of blending in with his surroundings. I think he would have made good M.I.5 material.
...that reminds me of National Service square bashing days doing rudimentary 'battle training'. One lad was up before the CO being AWOL from camouflage classes. "I wasn't absent Sir! I attended everyone lesson Sir...". "Well noboby saw you that's for sure...." said the CO. "That's not my fault Sir! - I learn fast Sir!."
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4 hours ago, sniffy said:
Sorry - basic question here but not knowing the area, what would cause the boat to sink, tight ropes, resting on the edge of the banking maybe, I'm doubtful anything wrong with the boat itself ?
Same question as me. What were the circumstances leading to the boat sinking.
....and if no fault of the boat, and due to the river conditions, why did luggsy not sink as well?
Puzzled?
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1 hour ago, cuthound said:
I thought that was a sultana? ?
Thanks for raisin' the issue .......
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Personally I am grateful for all the help I can get. On balance, I think volockies do a good job. The personal touch is what makes life interesting.
I let them get on with it, and thank them when leaving.
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34 minutes ago, WJM said:
Thank you for the responses - which generally go far beyond answering my original question.
So to be clear, the consensus here is that an engine fuel pump that is disabled (through a fault or through a loss of electric power) will not immediately and definitively cause the engine to stop? The engine can keep running, the fuel can still make it's way through to the injectors? Or to phrase it differently - a dead pump does not necessarily mean a dead engine?
Can't answer with a definite yes or no. The engine needs fuel and will run without a pump if the fuel can reach the engine without a pump... in which case the engine will run when the pump fails
If a pump is needed to get fuel to the engine, then at some point in the operation cycle the engine will stop if the pump is fails.
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24 minutes ago, WJM said:
I have questions regarding fuel pumps generally. I am asking so that I can better understand a problem that I had with my Isuzu engine.
If the fuel pump is is not working at all will the engine still run, albeit run badly or intermittently? And building on that question - if the ignition key is accidentally knocked to the off position would that have the same effect as a failed fuel pump - ie: the engine will still run, but badly because there is no electrical power going to the fuel pump?
As Boater Sam says, the pump is to get the fuel to the engine....and once running the engine will keep going until the fuel supply valve (mechanical or electrical) on the injector pump is shut.... or worse if the fuel tank empties - the engine sucks in air and stops. You will then have to go through a messy procedure to 'bleed' the air from the injector pump to get the engine to start again.
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Thanks everybody! I will settle for Bradford...I have not been there by boat - must be a trick of memory.
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20 hours ago, Sea Dog said:
It's from back in the day when Bradford on Avon was the other way around - colour photography was still in its infancy then.
Thanks. I will settle for Bradford ..... but hasn't colour photography always been around - pictures we have of long ago are black and white because everything in the world was black and white....
. I would indeed like to know why, so that I may discover a means of avoiding it.
Anyone been through Froghall Tunnel... looks tight!?
in General Boating
Posted
............. You bring out the coward in me ....