crossley
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Posts posted by crossley
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Does fuel come out when plug is removed?
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What's on the other side of the bulkhead to the valve?
Under the aft deck plate? Please don't tell me the valve is screwed onto a stub welded in the bottom of the tank.
Looks like a 1/2" bsp F Female valve screwed on to a nipple welded into tank wall.
They must have dismantled the valve to fit it in the first place.
Have to drain the tank first
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Back open now.
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My mate is moored nearby and is keeping me informed..
The pumps were taken away on Friday.
Stop planks and dam are still in place.
T
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I use the foam shop Manchester.
They do a waterproof cover material same as used in outdoor garden furniture. Satisfied customer.
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Are there any filters on the hydraulic oil header tank? There should be a low pressure return line filter. Renew that. The hydraulic manifold block may have a pressure filter in it. Check that. Are there any test points on the manifold, minimess connections? Check standby and running pressures if so. Is the pump a load sensing type, having a smaller load sensing line going to it from the manifold block, so 3 hoses go to the pump?
Can't really see what a top end overhaul is going to do for crankcase pressure unless the valve guides are badly worn..
I'd be looking at honing the liners & New rings if you're getting blow by.
Have a look at the crankcase ventilation arrangement. Is the filter ok?
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Can you do a bs5 next please?
Have a couple under the bench and a box of remains that need a coat
Of looking at.
Nice work by the way.
Good gear the old CAV stuff.
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That's Denso tape in the first pic. Not parcel tape!
It's a woven greasy horrible sticky stuff put round steel pipe fittings
To prevent rusting.. kind of works...
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Was in Furness this afternoon on other business, called in to the marina tocheck on the boat. After going through the roadblock on the A6 where police are cautioning people, it was eerie. No trains on the Buxton line, or hope valley line, no road noise, the incessant stream of tipper trucks, nothing. Never realised how noisy it was up there. The levels up a few inches that's all. Hopefully the worst is over now, if it had rained heavily overnight and continued undercutting the embankment, they would have been in real trouble. So hopefully we got off lightly this time.
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What you need is a 3 port amot valve.
Try Amot controls. Come in all shapes and sizes, flanged, threaded bsp etc. We use them on main engines. That's a tiddly one. Some have 6or 8 elements in the casing.
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When replacing a bank of 6 sealed leisure batteries a few years ago, I was considering Trojan, crown, and another make I can't remember. The original set up was 3 pairs in parallel (I'm on 24v) so I was looking at 4
6v in series, the cost was best part of a grand for the tall 460 Ah types.
For half this figure, I bought a nearly new forklift battery, complete, the tank,cells, New interconnects, everything. I have plenty of height above for these tall cells, in fact the steel tank sits on the base plate in the engine room, the deck plates cut to fit round it. It makes a handy seat too, and helps balance the offset engine.
The footprint is smaller, as they are taller, 500 mm high.
Another advantage is the cells can be individually replaced should one die.
If you have the headroom, it's worth considering.
After 3 years they continue to perform well. As a test I sometimes put the immersion heater on and watch the voltage drop. On Friday, I did just this, heating the calorifier in 45 mins. The load is 63A. Voltage dropped to 24.5 on load, then recovered to 25.4 after heater cut out.
So I think there ok!
Couldn't do this with the original sealed batteries. Inverter shutdown on low voltage after about 10 mins..
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Wood ain't what it used to be.. chopped up some pitch pine sash window frames dating back to 1790. Not a spot of rot on them. After 200 years.
Had a bay window frame replaced in about 1990 lasted about 7 years. Like balsa wood. I think it's down to commercial foresters not letting trees properly mature. Or lack of proper lead based oil paint.
There's a lot of crap plywood out there, I think it warrants buying the best considering how much work it takes to install it to your satisfaction.
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I repaired a lister startomatic set many years ago on a remote cottage in Anglesey. Lethal bloody thing. It was a ww 2 lighting set I think, 230v dc.
Used a double ended mawdsley dynamo with 200 volt and 24 volt windings in series. The 24v winding started the thing, charged the batteries, and worked a solenoid which held the inlet valve open till a centrifugal switch tripped when it had got up enough speed to start. Only thing was, the batteries were 200 volts above earth.. nasty. the house light switches had to be qm&b, quick make & break, or they would start arcing inside when anything was switched off. You couldn't use ordinary light switches.
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Looking for a decent joiner to undertake some cabin refitting
Looking to start around Easter when weather bucks up. boat is on peak forest canal, either a mobile joiner, onsite, or I can move boat to joiners premesis if required. Any recommendations?
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Nice little earner for somebody overplating and changing anodes.
All them boats sat there fizzing away merrily on shore supply. At least it won't freeze over in winter what with all the stray currents that'll be circulating!
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That reminds me of the circraft.
These were a circular speedboat about 7 feet diameter designed by a friend of my father's in the mid 1970's. The outboard motor was fixed dead ahead, and steering was by leaning over to one side or the other. A few people had a go at making them but they never caught on. Was featured on tomorrow's world if I remember. They rode up on two plywood skis fitted underneath. Had the endearing habit of flipping right over if the motor was slammed in astern so the reverse gear had to be blanked off. I vividly remember going on a prototype on poynton pool during poynton show.
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Ok then, in the meantime, post up a few pics of this refit your just completing. I'm working in Tilbury docks for a couple of weeks so won't be at the boat. I'll pay a fair rate for quality work. No mdf or chipboard thank you, proper marine ply and wooden wood. Boats tend to get damp, houses generally don't.
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Ok then., bear in mind the "drive up distance" is important on taper mount bearings. Too loose and the bearing will move on the shaft, too tight and the bearing will overheat. Measure from the end of the adaptor to the front of the nut before disturbing it. Then tighten the ring nut to the same dimension when reassembling. Try and get a "c" spanner so you don't end up butchering the nut with a chisel.
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Hmm. As I understand it aren't the yokes supposed to be in the same plane? So up to a point one cancels out the other? I.e in phase? Got me thinking now.
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You can quote me for some joinery work. I'm in Manchester. Can do most things, but bloody hate woodwork. I'm looking for a good boat fitter/ wood butcher.
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Sounds like a taper mounted bearing. Is it a thin round ring nut with 4 slots in it and a tab washer around the shaft? If it is, then What you are seeing is the end of the adaptor sleeve. tightening the skf ring nut draws the tapered adaptor collet through the tapered bearing bore clamping the bearing onto the parallel shaft. Once the nut is backed off the bearing can be driven off the taper with a brass drift and a big hammer. They can be really tight.
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Is the engine mounted centrally, or offset to one side? I have a similar set up with an offset engine and a long truck prop shaft arrangement running under the back cabin. I get the same rumbling noise at certain low speeds, but can usually find a sweet spot where the vibrations cancel out. I think it's a product of the engine torque reversals, backlash in the gearbox and the long unsupported prop shaft. One day I'll look at fitting CV joints, but it's been like that for years now. Two things I did that helped reduce the vibrations were to reinforce the Plummer block bearing mounting with additional plating between the base plate and the bearing support making it really solid. Also I fitted a heavy coil spring and washers inside the splined end of the shaft to put some preload on the bearings. This made most improvement. I used an old valve spring and an assortment of washers to give some end load. This is assuming your shaft is splined at one end and your Plummer block is taking the thrust. Firstly though I'd strip and clean the bearing make sure it's ok. If the outer race is thick enough, you can always fit an anti rotation peg by grinding a square notch on the corner with a thin slitting wheel and drill and tap the housing to suit for a grubscew, say M4 or M5.
Hope this helps.
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When Paul Gardner's overhauled my pump top they erased the old lines and scribed New ones. The sprayers were numbered to each cylinder and the output balanced on the gardner machine. Maybe some pump shops aren't so particular.
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Do the easy stuff first. First use the priming levers to check the injectors all make squeak or grunt when the lever is pulled quickly. Check they all have a similar resistance, ie take the same effort to operate. Do this with each fuel pump tappet in turn at the bottom of its stroke. Check tappet clearance and decompresor shaft adjustment on no 1 cyl. Remove flywheel inspection cover and check timing lines align with the scribed lines in the little Windows on the pump. It does sound as if no. 1 cyl is getting little or no fuel. It's not smoking badly so compression is good. If no1 fuel pump lever is easier to operate than the others, check the delivery valve spring is ok.
Engine fuel line engineering problem
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
He's going to have to drain the tank then or risk it snapping off.