[Velvet Drive problem]

I don’t see any trace of water in box or oil in the cooling system. The box (I believe) is quite early, the serial number is 7716, so the dipstick might be sortoff original. Someone else mentioned overfilling so I will take some oil out and retry this weekend.

[Velvet Drive problem]

26 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

Is the gearbox oil cooler connected and properly cooled with cool water flow?

 

Never heard of this before but if its raw water cooled heat  exchanger on the pressure side of the pump has the oil gone pink. If so then maybe the oil cooler is holed.

 

Overfilling so the oil aerates might cause then but you say the level is correct. The thing I can't remember is if the level is with the plug screwed in or just lodged on the top of the hole.

Oil cooler is connected and cooled by the skin tanks, no leaks or holes. Oil is ATF so is red anyway. The dipstick is not a screw it’s a plug, it’s not original, so I’m not sure if it is even correct.

[Velvet Drive problem]

I have a BMC 1.5 married to a 71C Velvet Drive with a problem. The oil (ATF) is up to the mark on the dipstick but when I get to about 1500rpm oil comes out of the breather. Reducing revs stops this. Has anyone got any idea what is wrong and how can I solve it.

[disconnecting backboiler and still use stove]

Hi All

Being new to narrowboating, I have found I have a lot to learn. I have a stove with a backboiler to heat one radiator using a themo-syphen system (doesn't work very well). I don't need to heat the end of the boat, so what I want to know is - If I drain and disconnect the pipes at the back of the stove (probably remove them altogether), can I still use the stove as normal?