Fender151
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Posts posted by Fender151
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We have just finished the Four Counties Ring, 14 days, would loved to have spent longer.
Just loved it, loads to see, Wedgwood Museum, Shugborough Hall, great market towns every other day.
Heart Break Hill is just a day to feel like a hero and perfect excuse/ justification/ reward for supping pints of rehydrating liquids!
Stoke is a history lesson, history not always inspirational, Westport Lake moorings on the out skirts of Stoke is great overnight moorings. Harecastle Tunnel box needs ticking IMO.
Most of the folks we met were great, helpful when we/they though we needed it !
The whole Shroppie experience, views amazing, not overly busy, has water, no trouble with locks, whats not to like!
Just go for it, and enjoy, make time your friend.
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37 minutes ago, matty40s said:
Its just as well you are not hurrying as Milton Keynes is 4 hours on tickover and Leighton Buzzard another 2.
Came up from Aylesbury at the end of last week and had to fill 3 pounds ahead of me above Gudgeon Stream lock - luckily, a CRT chap came along and filled the completely empty top pound as well. Low water levels below Slapton and between Cosgrove and Stoke Bruerne.
Thanks for your comments Matty, I thinking a plan B is required.
Cheers
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I have planned my first major cruise from Fradley to London, 60ft NB low draft.
I have plenty of leisure time, so the speed of cruising is not an issue, hanging around at locks waiting to double up may become one after time.
What I am concerned about is current and forecast water levels.
My proposed route:
Fradley > Coventry; Hawkesbury Junction > Oxford>
Braunston Junction > Grand Union; Northampton, Aylesbury, Watford, Uxbridge, Little Venice (Moorings booked).
In my original planned journey, I intended to do the return journey Via the Oxford but dismissed this due to current known issues with water levels etc, so return will be back over the same route.
I have concerns the current and predicted water levels are going to make this more a war of attrition than the chill time experience I want.
I would really appreciate any comments from folks who have current experience on my proposed route.
I am thinking I may have to have a plan B journey.
Many thanks,
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Yep, been there, done that.
I was not sure of the material the busted screw was made from, and wanted to avoid leaving a broken drill in a partly drilled out hole, I got a cobalt HS drill bit, did the job a treat. Resized the hole, (check the maximum diameter of the hole in fairlead) drilled out, retapped thread, take your time on this, make sure the tap is properly aligned, you may only get one shot, I used hardened steel hex bolts
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Hi Neil,
That sounds like an interesting solution, do you a photo you could share.
Thanks,
Jon
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I am about to fit two solar panels on my 60ft canal boat.
The existing ladder and pole cradle is welded to the roof, towards the rear of the roof on the right hand side, pretty much in line with were I would ideally like to site the solar panels. The panels will be mounted at the highest part of the roof, using tilt and swivel marine quality brackets. I have done the measuring, and if I leave the cradle in its location, there is very little gap, 10 to 20 mm between the top of the ladder and the bottom of the panel.
So I can,
1: Live with it, not my preferred option as what can go wrong will, and I would bet the ladder will bite the panel at some stage,
2: Move the cradle: I can have the cradle cut from current position,
2.1 In order to have it re-welded further along the roof, issue, I am being advised I would need to remove the roof linings from inside the boat adjacent to the new location, not ideal
2.2 Drill and bolt the cradle in new location, issue, I am introducing a potential problem of leaking roof in the future (I am aware that I will be doing this with the solar panel mounting brackets)
2.3 Has anybody come up with an alternative solution, I.E. magnetic fixings for cradle
I am aware I can look for some higher mounting brackets for the panels, but feel this is not an solution I want to go with until I have explored all other possible options.
Tanks for your input.
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I bought a 12/24vv shoreline larder style fridge about a year ago, to replace a 12v fridge with small freezer compartment unit.
To be honest, the freezer compartment in the old unit was as useful as chocolate tea pot, dint't freeze goods effectively and was just a waste of space.
Do find the extra capacity of the larder fridge great, particularly when out cruising, with the need to stock between super market opportunities, and doesn't have power overhanded of freezer unit. Build quality is good, price is, what it is !!!!,
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I have replaced the lock nuts on my engine mounting brackets, in doing so, I can see that the adjuster nuts are not aligned across the two front mounts, the two at the rear are aligned, and at different settings to both fronts mounts.
I am aware there is a vibration through the boat when in neutral, and I want to see if this is due to the engine alignment.
Can anybody advise if there is a process to follow to correctly align the mounts.
Thanks,
PS, take it as read that I had to replace the nuts.
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3 hours ago, haggis said:
If it is Rugely, don't think you will have a problem. There are VMs both before and after the bridge nearest tesco and Morrisons. If we are having a short (shopping) stop, we quite like slotting into the little bit just after the bridge and before the "pinch point" but no such luck in late January. Both on the way up and the way back there was a boat (same one both times) bang in the middle of the space which effectively stopped anything over abut 40 feet getting in beside him. A good way to ensure you get a mooring to yourself, we thought :-)
haggis
Thank you Haggis, and it is Rugeley I am heading for, sounds like Moorings wont be a problem.
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Blue skies, Sun's out, boat fetteling done, time for a short bimble before Easter flurry lands.
I was hoping to find an overnight mooring at Rudgley, around Bridge 66, wondering how busy it is at present, would appreciate feedback, suggestions from any folks in the area.
Many thanks.
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I recently got an anti-vibration mat from RS, 150mm *150mm, mounted the pump on tmat, easy as, Pump just hums now, no rock and roll!
Mat cost around £10.
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Bike on paddock stand
Remove the plugs
Spray WD40 into cylinders
In gear, and rock the real wheel using short movements, in both directions.
Good luck.
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I am seriously, very seriously, considering swapping out my basic 3 program Webasto control unit for a new Webasto 7 day programmable control unit.
I was wondering if any folks on the forum have done the swap, interest if the rewiring is strait forward, i.e, disconnect from old and reinstall on new, or will I need to rewire, and any problems experienced.
Was it a worthwhile investment.
Thanks,
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I have installed a kit from WIFI on Board.
http://www.wifionboard.co.uk/product-category/canal-boat-wifi/
Not cheap, but works brilliantly, External Ariel with magnetic base, 3/4g, 15/30MB down load in most areas I have traveld.
Easy install, battery back-up on router so don't lose config details and still works if voltage drops below 12v.
I am aware you can but router Hawii and Ariel separately and probably save some money, the guy that runs WIFI on Board provides great back -up service, IMO, the support he provides is worth the extra £.
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Just what I need. Thanks for that.
To chebaka's point above, which i get, i opted to open up two flaps, one at each side of the box, in order to allow air to pass through, & dissipate from the box. You need only create the opening, you don't need to create a cut out , IMO.
Also make better, easier, access aperture for the battery connections.
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I have jut installed a Clipper BM2 shunt,
I have 1 stater batter and 4 leisure batteries.
The unit provides config for stater and leisure battery monitoring. With one shunt, it will monitor voltage (only) of starter battery; voltage and current of the domestic bank
The shunt is wired with negative from starter battery and negative supply to domestics on one side , and negative from one of the leisure batteries , and stipulates no other connections from this batteries negative post. Strictly, you'd also need the negative interconnects to the other leisure batteries here too. But yes the principle is that only this one connection comes "out" of the battery bank to the shunt, then anything else - including hull negative connection, engine negative connection (to starter motor), any other negative connections etc are connected the other side of the shunt
I then have positive wires from both batteries to the display unit.
I noted, when I stared the battery wiring the starter battery has a negative lead connection to negative on the leisure battery bank. I have disconnected this connection as I believe it will a false reading on the shunt monitor, IE a combined starter battery and leisure battery value.
With the negative connection removed, I get individual values for both Starter and leisure batteries which seem reasonable. Correct but it would need to be reconnected again - to the other side of the shunt - otherwise your engine won't start.
Was I right to disconnect the earth, any thoughts/advice appreciated.
Not that difficult install to be honest, just followed diagram & instructions.
Thanks
PS Screwfix sell a range of waterproof enclosure boxes perfect for installing the shunt in, cost < £5,
Hi Paul,
Thanks for the reply,
Your correct, voltage from starter, voltage and current from leisure batteries, plus a bunch of info on time to charge, discharge, temp reading, etc.
Engine makes a noise when key is operated, all seems sorted.
Cheers,
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I agree with the above, if you have used a cheap plastic enclosure then check its fire resistance. Any fault like a bad or loose terminal will add to the heat and a mayor fault could result in a fire.
Did the instructions advise low rated fuses in the monitoring leads from the shunt.
Failure of a shunt will pass a high current through a small cable causing a rapid rise in temperature until they eventually melt .
An overheated cable in a wiring loom causes a lot of damage, if not a lot worse.
Hi Adrian, yep, 2* I (one) amp fuses recommended on the positive connections and installed.
Thanks,
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Thanks all for your comments, Earth to Major Nick point noted.
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I have jut installed a Clipper BM2 shunt,
I have 1 stater batter and 4 leisure batteries.
The unit provides config for stater and leisure battery monitoring.
The shunt is wired with negative from starter battery and negative supply to domestics on one side , and negative from one of the leisure batteries , and stipulates no other connections from this batteries negative post.
I then have positive wires from both batteries to the display unit.
I noted, when I stared the battery wiring the starter battery has a negative lead connection to negative on the leisure battery bank. I have disconnected this connection as I believe it will a false reading on the shunt monitor, IE a combined starter battery and leisure battery value.
With the negative connection removed, I get individual values for both Starter and leisure batteries which seem reasonable.
Was I right to disconnect the earth, any thoughts/advice appreciated.
Not that difficult install to be honest, just followed diagram & instructions.
Thanks
PS Screwfix sell a range of waterproof enclosure boxes perfect for installing the shunt in, cost < £5,
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From my experience, I would agree with Loddon, I would give Heldite jointing compound a try, It's done a good job sealing a leak on diesel fuel pipes on wife's Focus.
Alternately, could you retap the thread, not sure where you are based, I am up in Mercia Marian, Burton and have a metric tap and die set if would help.
Hope you get it sorted.
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Hi Zoe,
I moved into my 1st NB in November 2015, and like you had concerns about security.
First thing to establish, are you predominantly cruising/based on the cut, or Marina based, as the two present very different requirements for security.
If you think of your boat like a car, if you park the car in a secure garage at night, you don't need to worry so much about what you leave visible, typical scenario of Marina life, everybody will know who owns the boat, when you are on/off it, and a good deal of your life history and ancestry after a week.
If you are parking up in a secluded public car park, with no CCTV, then you would leave nothing of value visible, and possibly take the car wheels with you! It would be wise to take the same precautions if you are moored up in notoriously dodgy area on the cut, personally I would try and avoid.
And please, for the sake of the smart arses on the forum, resist the temptation to make an analogy between car wheels, and.....
To be honest, as has already been pointed out, when you're on the cut, if somebody is determined to break into your boat, they will, just the same situation as your house, sadly. I work out, what is insured, what I am prepared to lose and check out the forum feedback on people's real world experiences, not speculation, where I am traveling, make any changes as we think fit, and then let it go.
FYI, I do have a padlock on the stern doors, I leave a spare key with a Pal, who is smaller than me
I do use a bicycle padlock to secure alloy shore plank, I do leave side windows open, to avoid condensation, and I do lock side doors
Life on the cut is way to much fun to spend it constantly worrying about what might happen, best to take reasonable precautions, and deal with whatever comes up if and when.
Welcome and have fun.
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Welcome to your new role, and thank you for stepping up and giving your time to help the forum.
I hope you will get a load of laughs from looking at the forum inside out, that will make it worthwhile.
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I am sure like most folks, I have two gas bottles stored in a bow locker, the bottles are chained and padlocked together. You can't get two bottles out of the opening of the locker at the same time, but emergency crew could cut the chain, and lift them out, and/or turn off the gas supply.
Oiks with a bolt cutter could also cut the chain, but then they can also cut an external padlock.
This setup means I can switch over gas bottles when it runs out, as I am in the middle of cooking the evening meal, thank you Mr Murphy,. Seems fine to me.
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Would appreciate some help.
I have a 60ft NB from Orchard marina.
I am going to make up an adjustable brace to hold the side doors partially open, mainly to help ventilation from galley area when I am burning the dinner.
I am currently away from the boat, and need the approximate measurement of the depth of the sill of the side door, I have drawn a diagram, attached and it is the measurement between x and Y i need.
I am not planning to make this a tight fit to the sill, approximate measurement would be a great help.
Please get back to be if I haven't provided enough info.
Cheers
Jon
PS; diagram is copyright protected
PPS The x & y measurement is the unreadable squiggle at the bottom of the diagram, nice try no....
Chromebook opinions
in Boat Equipment
Posted
You sherly can, on all the above!
Chromebook
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjBo9j1uanWAhWDLlAKHaJ1AsgQFggxMAI&url=https%3A%2F%2Fbeebom.com%2Fhow-to-install-and-use-whatsapp-on-a-chromebook%2F&usg=AFQjCNGkkz5v01kY1By0cxTnuGHtULz2uQ
Linux
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwiD7ZKtuKnWAhVJZlAKHWIeCowQFggpMAE&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.linuxandubuntu.com%2Fhome%2Fwhatsapp-now-available-to-use-in-linux-through-web-browser&usg=AFQjCNEjdF2i5W5FtNd4ODFjHgLx9EJv9Q
Windows PC
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwiM19_QuqnWAhVOaVAKHS0yDhwQFggxMAI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.techadvisor.co.uk%2Fhow-to%2Fwindows%2Fhow-use-whatsapp-on-any-windows-pc-or-laptop-3639993%2F&usg=AFQjCNG8pbHxTPkvKCLhS9vjq_vUJ4ozmA
I use WhatsApp on both Linux and Windows 10, dual boot laptop, no real issues, fettling required post updates, but for me, thats part of the challenge/fun, very sad man!
Have fun