Daltonia

Condensation inside channels on the side and bottom of the window frames is no problem, because it just drains down the channels and then outside, but not from the top of the frame, from where the water drips down directly into the boat. My second image above is looking directly upwards into the top edge of the window frame.

I’ve now tried two approaches to try to combat the condensation issue on the aluminium window frames: Adhesive neoprene strips – this works impressively well (see image below), but the strips cannot easily be applied to inner frame surfaces, so significant condensation remains. Insulating paint (Thermalmix added to standard paint) – this appears to reduce condensation a little, though significant condensation remains (see image below). I will now try a third approach, which I was trying to avoid, the secondary acrylic glazing attached with magnetic strips

Can you post a photo please?

Please could you clarify? Am I right in thinking there was condensation onto the brass surfaces, so you applied insulation paint and this solved the problem? If so, what paint did you use and did it adhere to the brass OK without some sort of preparation? Thanks.

Thank you Tony. Just ordered some neoprene tape from Seal+Direct (AEN9 A/B Expanded Neoprene 25x3mm); will let you know how it goes. Cheers, Des

Hello Forum, The inside surrounds of my windows are alluminium, upon which water condenses and, missing the internal guttering, drips inside the boat (see below). I'm wondering if some sort of insulative coating can be applied to the alluminium to prevent water condensing. Any ideas? Many thanks for any help. Cheers, Des

Thank you, very helpful :-)

Many thanks for the replies. I've opted for the stove paint. I'll strip it first and then apply an etch primer, before spraying with the stove paint. Perhaps it has peeled because an etch primer was not used originally. Interesting article on painting stainless steel here: http://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=119

I have a live-aboard friend who is having great trouble finding an insurance company willing to insure his car. The car is registered with the DVLA at the address of the local post office, as is his driving license. Insurance companies are telling him they will not insure the car because he does not live at the address where his car is registered. Has anyone found a company willing to insure a car that is registered at a local post office? Thanks for any help.

My chimney, installed when the boat was built in 2014, is looking flakey. The paint applied to the stainless steel is peeling away. Any advice on a more long-lasting treatment? I guess with stainless steel it is rather tricky due to the smooth surface? Maybe the best bet is to strip it down to the stainless steel surface and leave it at that? Or perhaps there is some black coating that can be applied which is proven to last on such chimneys? Any advice is appreciated :-)

Ah, I see, thanks very much. I was originally planning to use Intertuf 16 until I found out the original blacking was Comastic. It seems the Intertuf may again be a reasonable choice?

Thanks. I've just cleaned a bit close to the water-line then waited for it to dry. Then rubbed a kitchen towel across it with a dab of white spirit. The towel became black. I then scraped a little of the blacking off and put it in a dish with a little white spirit. It dissolved. Does this mean the current surface layer, at least, is not Comastic but is a bitumen-based product?

I'm planning to re-black my 58' and 10' narrowboat this summer. It was built in 2014 and originally blacked with Comastic. I've owned it since Aug 2017 and nothing in the paperwork suggests it was re-blacked since new. However, I'd like to be sure before re-blacking with Comastic. How do I check that the current surface layer of blacking is Comastic? Also, approximately how much Comastic would be needed for two coats of the sides plus a third coat along the water-line (I don't plan to re-do the bottom)? As always, many thanks for your valuable help :-)

There's nothing wrong with the cheap Maplin switch. I'm only changing it because the expensive one, which Brayzel kindly sent to me for nothing, matches the other switches on the boat. Purely aesthetics, nothing more.

Andrew Crook of Brayzel tells me the website problem is the fault of their troublesome website designers. They are still very much in business. Very helpfully, he kindly sent me a switch free of charge, which I shall use to replace the Maplin switch I installed in the meantime :-)

I have no experience with any, but here is the current pricing for R W DAVIS & SON LTD for WIDE FLAT BOTTOMED HOUSEBOATS (note, these prices exclude VAT). __________ DRYDOCKING (Includes undocking and 1 week in dock) £490.00 PRESSURE WASH HULL £3.40 per ft SUPPLY AND FIT 1.5kg MAGNESIUM ANODES (WELD ON TYPE) £50.00 each APPLY - 2 COATS HIGH BUILD BITUMASTIC £8.20 per ft (Top Plank £1 per foot extra if required) - 2 COATS EPOXY TAR/COMASTIC £11.70 per ft (Top Plank £1 per foot extra if required) Pressure washing and coating prices include hull sides and bottom plates. Docking is normally the week from Monday to Monday except in the event of bank holiday.

Thanks for all of the replies. Here is a summary so far: Sharpness Shipyard - will lift out onto hard-standing and allow DIY blacking. They haven't given me a price yet. Hempsted (A&D) drydock - tried calling a couple of times with no answer yet R.W. Davis & Sons - don't allow DIY blacking in their drydock Sharpness Marina - tried calling a couple of times without success Saul Marina - no hard-standing for DIY blacking. Droitwich Marina - I can't get to it (10' widebeam)

Hello Forum, My boat needs re-blacking and, after seeing a couple of quotes, I'm considering doing it myself. I'm moored at Saul Junction Marina. Can anyone advise on the nearest location where I can do it myself please? The neighbouring boatyard, R.W. Davis & Sons, do not allow DIY blacking in their drydock. Many thanks for any help.

I ended up using this switch: http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/round-12v-rocker-switch-illuminated-red-n32fb The wires from the batteries where 2.5 mm cable. For the various wiring I put in, I used a mixture of 1.5 mm and 2.5 mm. I put the fuse on the live that came with the pump. Everything appears to be working fine. Thanks for all of your help and advice.

Spot on! The switch was a little further down the page (ID LS008). Thank you. Just got an email from Brayzel confirming that this was the source. After seeing the cost, which with P&P comes to £16.25 for a single switch and mount, I may be tempted by a cheap option for the present purpose. But it is good to know this original source in case I need them for future (more visible) applications. Many thanks for your help.

I've sent a request to the boat builder (Brayzel) but have no reply as yet and would like to get the job done asap (part of a shower drain pump replacement).

Can anybody point me towards a source for chrome rocker switch mounting plates of the below design please? 53 x 39 x 4 mm. Many thanks for any help.

Thanks for the reply. I've plumped for the Whale Gulper 220 (£86.99). I'm guessing the only accessory I need is a switch, to be mounted in the bathroom in order to turn the pump on-and-off before and after showering?

My shower sump pump unit (pictured below) has become faulty and I wish to replace it with a whale gulper. The sump is resting on the base of the bilge, close to the shower. The inlet hose is 29 mm and the outlet hose is 23 mm (external diameters). I have a couple of quick queries: 1. Which whale gulper is best for my purpose? 2. Besides what comes with the pump itself, what other accessories will I need? As ever, many thanks indeed for your kind help

It is a reverse lay-out, so the TV is near the stern end. Putting an external socket at the bow would mean running a cable through most of the boat and then through the metal wall at the bow.