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boater123

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Everything posted by boater123

  1. The work surface is wooden as is the window frame. I'm wondering whether the hobs will cause me an issue?
  2. Has anyone put an oven underneath the windows in their boat? I have my sink on the other side so it made sense for symmetry. My window frame is hardwood sapele and I was going to put an acrylic splashback on top of the painted ply. What do you think?
  3. Hi, I am looking at buying a built in oven for my boat, LPG with FSD. I want a single cavity oven + hob combination. Does anyone know of any good ones, I am finding them hard to find! Many thanks, Will
  4. Hi, I bought a collingwood sailaway in February and have been cruising in it every two weeks since then. I discovered yesterday that the dripless shaft seal is leaking. It isnt just dripping but a significant trickle of water is coming in. I though the jubilee clips might need tightening so I tried this but it made it worse. Has anyone replaced one of these before? And if so can it be done in the water, I have seen videos where people in yachts do it in teh water with the aid of a greased rag. I was thinking of a greased rag around the outside and then another on the inside as I swap teh seals over? I'm after some guidance please, I really dont want to take the boat out of the water if i can help it and ideally would do the work myself. Also, any brands of shaft seal that you would recommend, ideally someone I can have a chat with on the phone about the installation! Any help would be appreciated, I realise that Collingwood should probably correct this but I havent the time nor inclination to chase them about it I just want it fixed! I have attached a picture of the leaking seal. Many thanks, Will
  5. A mazona seems very very cheap is there a reason for this? Anyone experience with a mazona?
  6. Hi, I am about to fit my stove and am unsure of what brand to buy, I have a widebeam so want a 5.5-6.5kW stove but dont necessarily want to go for a morso or stovex because of their price. Has anyone used a cheaper alternative and been happy with it? What is the difference between cheaper models, is it how long they last? Many thanks, Will
  7. Hi everyone, Looking towards powering a continuously cruising wide beam and have been offered differing opinions about what alternators to use, AC/travel power set up or DC 12/24V. Plan is to have the following appliances; washing machine, dish washer, microwave. (not to be run all at the same time!). All run through a 3KW victron inverter (quattro if ac alternator, multiplus if dc), currently have one alternator set up for the engine battery on a 52HP canal line. I'd appreciate if those with experience could offer advice to the pros and cons of each set up (AC or DC) Specifically 1) cost - AC vs DC and reliability of buying second hand / reconditioned? 2) Ease of installation - DC seems to require more equipment and headaches such as connecting 24V alternator to 12V system, am I correct in thinking this? 3) Engine Revs - I've noticed on some large 12V alternators require engine revs @4000+ to get higher amps out of them, rather have the engine idle. Is this the main advantage of AC alternators? I've read previous threads but was hoping we could directly compare ac / dc, not looking to get too technical (that will come later...) but would appreciate any ideas or warnings before taking the plunge with one system or the other. Thanks, Adam
  8. Hi, I am about to cut my skin fittings for my bathroom, kitchen and washing machine. I've bought the skin fittings from uxbridge boats but was wondering if anyone could offer me advice before I cut holes in my boat. Im interested in hearing your thoughts on: What drill to use and what holesaw? What sealant to use? Any common mistakes and things to avoid? Many thanks, Adam
  9. Hi, Does anyone know what wood Collingwood make the front doors out of on the widebeam sailaways?? Looks like Sapele but I'm not sure, I'd like to do the rest fo the boat in the same wood. Help much appreciated, I've emailed them but they are notoriously slow in replying once you've given them your cash! Cheers, Will
  10. Thanks for the information so far. Would like a neutral colour for the ceiling or 'deckhead', so painting ply looks like the best cost to quality option. I was thinking laminated MDF as I know you can get it grooved to make it look like paneling. Or at least I though that is how they achieve what's shown in the image below?
  11. Hi, Looking to get materials for the ceiling in my boat build. It's a wide beam so going to go for 1220x3050mm sheets. I have a few quires if anyone could please shed some light; Does anyone have experience using MDF sealed and painted for their ceiling? If so what thickness did you go for? I plan to use 6mm if MDF can be used. A more expensive option is to use laminated MDF, again does anyone have experience with this on their boat/ info on how it performs? Particularity in the bathroom. Lastly use plywood throughout, but the finish on this would not be as good. Again any info would be appreciated, Thanks, Will
  12. surely you could get away with it though, how would they know?
  13. Hi, Just wondered whether you are allowed to Air ba nd b a room in your boat if you are living in it? Does this affect your license? Cheers, Will
  14. Hello, I have reached the stage of fitting my bulkheads. Any tips or advice in this process would be appreciated. I plan to use 25mm moisture resistant MDF as material, which is to be sealed then painted. 1 To shape the bulkhead to the curved ceiling, a cardboard template will be made and marked on the wood then cut with a jigsaw. Any improvements on this approach? With the knowledge that a level isn't much use in a boat on the water. 2 With the interior doors, is there a minimum size that anyone could suggest; going with approx. 2'6" wide and 6'5 high, cut with circular saw with a guide. 3 When it comes to securing the bulkheads to the cabin walls, floor and ceiling is it best practice to use screws or are brackets a better idea? The use of a builders square will be used to ensure the bulkheads are perpendicular to the cabin wall. Thanks, Will
  15. Thanks Paul, If the shoreline were to be disconnected and I was running the inverter off the batteries, would I still not need that second RCD for running the washing machine and socket ring?
  16. The RCD standards say '7.2.1 double pole circuit breakers shall be installed in conductors to all supply circuits'. Sounds like it makes life easier
  17. I have put together a single line diagram for simplicity and to ascertain if I have all the correct components, and wiring routes. I have included the grounding line of each piece of equipment, but not shown the grounding wiring of each RCD/MCB again for simplicity. Is there any route that I have missed? as for second AC output from the inverter, this is some blurb form the inverter spec, ' The second output is live only when AC is available on one of the inputs of the MultiPlus.' As robbo suggested there would need to be an RCD on both inverter outputs, so I therefore we have 3RCDS in the system. Is this excessive or deemed safe? I understand RCBOs could be used to save space, but have shown RCD/MCB combinations here. any thoughts on this would be appreciated. Thanks, Will
  18. With regards to the immersion heater... the diesel boiler we are using has both options of using diesel and an electric immersion heater, with a view when you are connected to the shoreline you can have constant hot water via the immersion. Again as cc, I only want diesel to heat the water therefore will not power the immersion via the batteries.
  19. Thanks for the all the information so far. I am do plan to have an electrician install all the equipment, but as fitting out on the water in London, they are like gold dust to get a hold of for work. Therefore I aim to purchase the required equipment so I can have it all ready for a professional to install. I plan to have a victron multiplus charger inverter 3KW. As CC the 10A MCB was an idea to discourage high AC power use, and an idea i shall put to bed. I shall put together a diagram to aid my description. Thanks again for all the information, Will
  20. Before embarking on installation of my AC system, if anyone could share any information on the following I would appreciate it. According to the RCD (recreational craft directive) is the following AC system acceptable? (I shall start form shoreline connection to AC outlets) Shore line connection plug fed into an RCD (residual current device) within 0.5 meters form the plug, the RCD shall be housed in a waterproof box next to the plug (a garage box). This RCD shall feed into two single pole MCBs, one connected to the diesel immersion heater, and the other connected to the inverter. Out of the inverter I propose to feed another RCD, housed within the electrical cupboard which shall feed two other single pole MCBs, a 10A MCB for a ring circuit of ac sockets (12 sockets, which I know is a large amount for one ring, but with 2.5mm cable and a smaller MCB this will reduce loading the sockets with the full whack of the 3KW inverter), and the other 12A MCB for a washing machine. My main question is... Does the galvanic isolator need to be connected at both RCDS or would connecting it to the first RCD ground the inverter through the galvanic isolator? Or do both RCDs and Inverter require grounding through the galvanic isolator. I will also be connecting the inverter to the batteries but that shall be for another day. Thanks, Will
  21. I am currently fitting out a sail away widebeam and have begun my first fit of electrics. Is it correct to connect the; headlamp, nav lights, horn, water pump and bathroom bilge pump to the engine battery or is it best practice to connect them to the leisure batteries. Any guidance would be appreciated. Thanks
  22. Does anyone know the nearest boater bins in West Drayton? I cant for the life of me find a map on the CRT website. Cheers.
  23. Hi, I am doing up a widebeam sailaway and am about to finish my back door properly. I have an idea of how to do this from looking at finished ones but have a few questions and would like to hear your thoughts and feelings. My plan is to use a nightlatch to secure the doors together and then a vertical sliding lock to secure the sliding hatch to the doors. I plan to secure a wooden frame to all moving parts sprayfoam the exposed steel, cut this back once gone off and then finish teh doors with a nice wooden finish. I will then secure the locks to the frame. ( probably going to pre cut the slots for the locks.) Is this a sensible way of doing it. Also I have seen brushes used on the tope of teh sliding hatch..is this a good way to keep teh draaft out. Currently my hatch just lides on the paint and it is already starting to wear away. Do brushes solve that issue? All thoughts on this will be welcome. Many thanks, Will
  24. Hi, I am about to start fitting out a widebeam sailaway boat. I need an electrician to connect up the leisure batteries to the alternator and then to a fuse board. Once this is done I am confident to do the rest it is just this stage I am unsure of. I am struggling to find an electrician who will come to my boat to do this, the boat is currently at Hayes and Harlington and I wonder if anyone knows any good electricians who would be able to come to my boat to do this stage for me? Kind regards, Will
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