Tiggs
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Posts posted by Tiggs
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If I remember right there are two main sorts of anti-freeze and you should not mix them. So if you don't know, just add water for now.
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The buzzer is usually located behind the control panel. If it is not you need to make it sound and find it by listening. Usually a round thing about the size of a tea light candle. If there is a light that comes on at the same time as the buzzer then it may be simply connected across that light.
contains a typical panel mounted buzzer connection diagram where the buzzer can sound for 3 possible reasons low oil pressure, high water temperature or alternator failure - connection is via 3 diodes to the engine sensors. Some boats are this complex, some are not.
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Also it is essential that you look at the electrical section of the boat safety scheme and I would also suggest you observe the regulations for new boats too.
http://www.boatsafetyscheme.org/media/268789/ecp-private-boats-ed3_rev2_apr2015_public_final.pdf
http://www.boatsafetyscheme.org/stay-safe/electrical-safety/
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This comes up many times.
The gulper is the best solution for most of us.
It is rather noisy and people who also have one will be able to tell when it is operating, but it is reliable and can be repaired and not too expensive.
I personally would not consider anything else.
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system 4-50 has an idea that appears to have been a issue a few times before; other instances talk about knocking, but if it is too far wrong then it won't knock it will transmit vibration - so well worth investigating.
The second mechanic appeared to think the vibration you had was "normal". In fact there will always be some, buy unwind of kitchen roll suggests it is much worse than normal.
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And it was not like this before the engine was removed?
Why did you want new mounts? what was wrong with the old ones?
There could be a lot of things causing vibrations but engine misalignment is often the issue - however you say that vibration is bad when stationary - so I would question the mounts - are they the correct sort for that engine?
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Oh, and with a large cruiser deck, ' long enough to reach the steering position' means on the roof four foot in front of me. So my centre line following your description will be shorter than on a trad sterned boat
Richard
Yes true, but I would never have one of those, so I don't really think about them too much.
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Google River Nene Moorings
(or just River Nene) and look at things like these links
http://www.foxboats.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/nenemap.pdf
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I'm happier with a longer line - just short of reaching the prop. With a seventy footer, the middle of the boat can end up quite a long way from the bank. That extra bit of line comes in handy
It must be short enough to avoid the prop though
Richard
Yes, just so they don't reach the prop is OK, then you only have to worry about the stern one (which if you do boating like professional boaters did (and some do) is not left tied on anyway, but in the cabin on a hook.
I don't get how you are mooring up with the middle of your boat 35ft from the bank though; unless the mooring is not deep enough I simply wait for the back to come into the bank and step off. Most of my boating has been on 70ft boats.
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We are on the Nene and it's a lovely and quiet river, one thing to remember is there isn't a lot of moorings so plan ahead !! And if we get a lot of rain some bridges are low,
Yes, plan the moorings. We had an issue with moorings when we were on it a couple of years ago. Be aware that some knownmoorings and some "unofficial" but mapped moorings can be difficult to use it you have pets to get off or any disablement.
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The two centre lines - which I assume are attached to the roof in the usual manner of today's boats - should not be long enough to reach the prop. They should only be long enough to reach the steering position, so that the steerer can get off with them. The 12 m one could be useful for some large river locks and for single handing, but I would have this coiled up on or in the back of the boat so that I could attach it to one of the others when I needed a really long line.
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It's nie to be able to wire a boat how you want to, rather than have to comply with a whole load of regulations like house wiring.
Personally I would have used red and black for 12V wiring though, because it means that someone else in the future would see it as that.
Car parts shops supply it.
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I have seen too many pictures of boats getting stuck on gates and pulled under
I try to control with line from the top to keep away and so far that has worked out fine. I only open paddles carefully to avoid great big surges.If it works for you Lizzy then fine. There are things to do to ensure you don't get stuck on certain gates - depends which canal / river you are on, but the biggest risk is drifting back onto the cill going down so I would always go down close to the bottom gates, with a rope preventing drift back. The boat will not get stuck when it has cleared the top of them. There are so many issues single handling that I would advise anyone getting training on it. Going up boats get stuck under the top of the gate sometimes - 70ft boats won't sink in this case, they will lift the lock gate off!
Wide locks in certain places have the beams on their gates and you need to keep the boat away from these obviously. Single handling in wide locks add a whole load of other issues; but again I don't think boat length is a problem (unless you are trying 60ft narrowboats in certain 57ft wide locks - again other issues.
And yes, single handling, don't race the paddles open - and what's more don't let people who come and want to "help" do this while you are handling the ropes.
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I also don't think length is much of a consideration from the single-handing perspective. I bought a 60ft with very little experience and have found it no problem. The only thing I would not (yet) feel comfortable with is single-handing in a lock where the boat is maximum length since I like to keep away from the gates.
I agree that length is not really an issue but to handle it properly you should be against / close to the appropriate gate anyway. Pulled forward when going up or down. In narrow locks pull forward onto the cill plate (or tick-over onto it) when going up, and pulled onto bottom gates when going down as soon as the bow has cleared the top of the gates.
So Toby, if you want a 70 ft boat just get someone to show you how to single hand it properly. But you really need to do this anyway; there are more issues than this.
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But Google is a SEARCH ENGINE so you just put Marina UK in it.
which gives you as one of the finds
BUT this may be more interesting
as might be EBay
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Depends what was sucked in; but did not really matter too much on these older engines. You find some motorbike engines without filters too - it's just taking a risk, but often they are owned by people capable of doing their own maintenance.
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Likely to be SAE 10W40 for temperatures of -25°C up to +30°C (-13°F up to +86°F) - SAE 15W40 for temperatures of -20°C up to +35°C.
Make sure you don't get oil specified for a turbo diesel.
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Model number?
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If someone coming towards you looks behind BEFORE he passes, beware that there is likely to be a following boat; even though he does not warn you.
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All you can do is measure it up and go to a DIY place and see what they have.
Standard loo seats tend to have a variable fixing bolt arrangement so that they fit a variety of toilets, but the bolt holes need to be the right size. The manual for your loo appears to show quite small bolt holes.
The seat size appears to be close to the standard though.
So maybe best to take off the seat and go to B&Q (or wherever) with it.
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Thanks for that.
OK, so I suggest you read this too:
http://www.powerstream.com/NiCd.htm
and
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_nickel_based_batteries
It looks like to get optimum performance you need a proper NiCd charger.
I think that a normal charger at 14.4V should work but timing and monitoring may be tricky. To change more quickly the 10 cells (nearest to a 12V normal battery) you need to disconnect from the equipment you are powering. This might be possible to do with two sets or use some power diodes or a switched mode supply circuit to drop the voltage.
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Suggest you read the pdfs on the site.
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Looks easy enough to fit, just the calibration may be a bit tricky.
But read the bottom of this page and it may put you off
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Having looked at these debates for years and years, I think the best solution is to have two vents on your tank. One low down (as low as is allowed) going out the side of your boat and one at the other end of the tank going out via the roof. These should be 1 2/2 inch or so.
This is what was suggested when I researched it before we had a boat built, so we gave it a go and it worked 99% of the time. No additional chemicals needed.
I try to control with line from the top to keep away and so far that has worked out fine. I only open paddles carefully to avoid great big surges.
Ballast
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted · Edited by Tiggs
You are right Mike.
It's sort of like a seesaw but not quite.
If we use the children's play park analogy I think it's more like one of these horses in the picture attached.