Tiggs
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Posts posted by Tiggs
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Personally I think a wet room is more difficult to install and may have a greater propensity to leak, which isn't really what you want on a boat.
Agreed. Have heard of a couple of such installations with leak issues.
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As an aside, when we leave the EU we'll be released from building to the RCD and will go back to being able to build ourselves death traps in the Great British way, right?
(Well it was a nice dream I was having...)
Yes, a nice dream.
Perhaps we should explain why it's a dream. All EU regulations (not just boats, but electrics, houses, cars, everything) that have been put into British Law will remain there until Parlement takes each one of them out - which won't happen to many of them. Also, in order to trade with the EU and in order to take your boat on European canals, or sell it into the EU it will be best if it meets their regs. AND guess what - we will have no way of changing any of these regulations we don't like - because we will no longer be part of the committee's that change them.
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Appears to be a lot of current. Would be interesting to see the battery volt drop too.
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My prefered method was to wrap the line round the balance beam and put on a doubled hitch until the butty was close to the top ( I would often be single handling so I needed to fasten it ). These gaurd rails look strong enough to use, but many are (where) not, and I prefered not to make a judgment for each one. I would not say that they people in the video were doing anything wrong.
It's interesting that for any video about locking there is always something that someone says is wrong, when they were not there on the day, with the particular boat and line and lock...
(but I didn't like the title - in my experience the Boss can never do the job properly! )
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As for leaks, all gates leak, it's unlikely that one set will be leak proof.
One set will always leak less than the other, so closing both reduces the leakage.
Also many inexperienced boaters (and some with experience) may not shut a padel completely - so gives two changes of getting this right. Quite often a short pound will get low because of this.
Also gates and padels get debris in them quite often and leak significantly - again two chances.
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I'm wondering if "headroom" is actually air draught, as it's recorded in "Dimensions", along with length and beam. (I'd have expected draught to be there as well, though)
Yes, looks like it's wrong from the pictures.
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http://galvanic-isolator.co.uk
Might have what you want. This is not a recommendation.
But, you do not have to have a Paypal account.
(in fact this applies to most suppliers, a credit or debit card is normally an option)
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You could try changing the speaker leads to twin screened wires, earth the screen. This should work if it is radiated fields from the LED lamp electronics.
Or you could try screening the lamps and earthing them, but I think the interference is getting into power supply so this may not work.
Also put a filter in the supply to the radio, or run it from a separate battery.
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Engine hoists can be hired; such as
http://www.hirecentres.com/lifting-pulling/233-engine-hoist.html
If there is enough room for one - would need careful measurement and you may have to take the base apart and reassemble it.
Me, I'd build an assembly out of wood and pull it up with little chain or cable hoist (obvious doing some simple calcs to work out that it was strong enough).
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Someone suggested they were to help keep the prop free of mud and silt when bottoming out on the canal bed. Can't say I really see that.
IMG_5860.jpgI can see that: I don't understand why you can't.
Also, looking at the downward angle, looks like it allows a slightly larger prop (but that may be the picture giving the wrong impression.
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This link goes to a page with 20 boats on it. Which one?
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A year or two ago I was told that it was no longer possible to buy new Water Cans and Handbowls as the known manufacturers were no longer prepared to make them.
I don't know who told you that but I put Buckby can into Google and found some straight away, both unpainted and painted.
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WD40 is really quite useless at that.
Proper penetrating oil is better.
Some people use Plus Gas and GT85 and I'm sure there are threads on here about it.
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I suggest you claim back what you have paid since they have not insured you.
https://www.moneyadviceservice.org.uk/en/articles/making-a-complaint-about-an-insurance-company
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I don't think anyone does a narrowboat wiring with a loom, although the engine and it's control panel may each have one, the variation in design and layout means looms are not a good idea. Even engine to control panel length varies from about 4 ft to 30 ft! Makers of hire boats may have some partial looms they use, but I can't see how making individual ones would be useful.
(I used to work in a factory that made looms for Lancaster bombers during the war - these would be all the same so once one was proven OK you could make the rest of them off-line.)
I suggest you design the wiring layout and estimate what cable you need and buy it in reels from somewhere like
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Provided you shower using the boat method (get wet, switch of shower, soap up, switch on shower to rinse quickly) a 50l one should be enough (bigger if you have more room as Tony says). Add extra insulation it you have room - use a standard set of house insulation panel - should fill the cupboard its in!
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GSDs are good, but I don't think you would want any bigger than this.
Fricka used to ride on the stern, get off at the lock, walk around and get back on just as the boat left the lock.
Jade was a little less boatie; but still provided the security when we went certain places...
Both were bought up on 70' narrowboats.
Two on a 40' boat would be too much for me.
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I suggest that you stand and the side of a canal of your choice and throw in £20 notes.
(More seriously I think you should look at buying a share in one of the self managed groups, there are some of these with the layout / length you are looking for. This will be much better while you are still at work)
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Except that Nick recently pointed out wet systems require 22mm pipes. More than twice the space of 15mm!
Yes 22mm (or more) for gravity systems, 15mm ok if its pumped. Depends on if you have power to pump with.
I think a 2x4 ducted system under the gunwhale would take less space than radiators.
Yes, the advantage is you don't need radiators at all and leaks shouldn't cause damage.
Come to think of it why don't narrowboat owners have more ducted systems?
Maybe it's because they tend to dry the air and affect breathing?
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I think the issue with ducts in narrowboats is that they take up space, and that is one thing we have very little of. Certainly any need for ducts 4"x2" say, would put me off if I could use 2 15mm pipes instead.
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And try not to spend so much that you could have bought a better, more complete boat for the overall price (this may be difficult).
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Looks OK. If the hull survey is good and you like it then I suggest you make an offer for it. I don't know about Gary Gorton, but I know JD boats are ok as fitters.
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I think you are worrying about nothing.
Providing everything is fastened down correctly and the pipes are installed correctly there should be no issues.
If you use one of the V shaped stores you will need to fix the top as well flange to a wall.
You have to have the stove fixed down anyway - for BSS.
I've had boats with copper pipes of all sizes and plastic pipes too, and never had any issues with them. Long copper pipes need to be set up to allow for expansion and contraction, these have banged into things all over the canal network and some rivers too.
Cromford Canal - AMBER VALLEY COUNCIL DRAFT POLICY
in Waterways News & Press
Posted
Just spotted this.
Let's go rebuild the Cromford Canal now.
(and keep it for ourselves not give it CRT)
http://info.ambervalley.gov.uk/docarc/docviewer.aspx?docguid=f500132d80d34eed9b7d5e28e70fa161
"Policy IN3
The Borough Council will support proposals for the sensitive restoration and maintenance, to navigable status, of the route of the Cromford Canal, as shown on the Proposals Map. The Council will also seek to protect the route from any development that is likely to prejudice its future restoration and maintenance.
Development will be permitted for any proposals that would:-
positively contribute to the restoration of the canal and towpath
improve access to and along the route of the canal to encourage its use
for transport, leisure and recreational purposes
respect, improve or enhances the landscape & townscape character,
setting, biodiversity and historic value of the canal
providing the proposals would not have any adverse impact on amenities by virtue of noise, odour or visual impact. "