Lady_Trish

So it is at least possible to convert an alternator to have a low cut-in speed? Could you possibly shed light on what is done to its insides? Is it made to resemble more what a marine alternator might look like, such as a Balmar? Regarding the bedroom wall, someone is coming today to look at the feasibility removing parts of the wall without disturbing the black tank. If I wanted to pull my engine back, could I do this inside the boat without a crane? Perhaps by temporarily disconnecting the exhaust before pulling it back with the new pulley?

I wanted to revive this thread to bring one idea to the table. I've had a suggestion from a couple of people and I want to see what you guys think of this option. As you know, I want to get my alternator charging without increasing my engine pulley. I've been told I should take my alternator to an auto electrical place to get them to overhaul it, fit a bigger regulator, and "beef up the diodes". At the same time, I could possibly have an adjustment made to it so that I can also fit an adverc system (or a similar sterling alternator booster). Now, I'm not entirely clear how these modifications to the alternator will make it cut in with less RPM. Nor am I entirely clear on how the adverc or similar charging systems work (do they trick the alternator into giving off more charge?). I've been told that this route would be non invasive regarding the engine, which would run as it dose at present without the need to change pulleys. Also that it will charge strongly on tick over. Could this work?

I would be happy with the 80A, and I reckon without a fridge or tv and with 500w solar I could get through the winter with running the engine a few hours a week on that. I would LOVE a larger pulley, believe me. And I'm willing to pay for it, within reason. But because of the engine position it would need to be lifted out to fit it, or a wall would basically need to be removed. I'm not interested in optimum performance, If only there was a solution that would allow me rely on the alternator as a backup power source :-(

Richard, can you give me some idea as to what 2000 rpm is in relation to the full capacity of the engine? I have no idea, if I were to run at half the full speed for example, how many Rpms is that?

Hello all, I've been looking at this canal boat alternator, advertised on eBay rather spectacularly as being able to produce high output at low RPM. Basically a cheapo version of what Balmar do? http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-CANAL-BOAT-ALTERNATOR-HIGH-OUTPUT-120-AMP-A127i-TYPE-/181430420788?nav=SEARCH Anyway, they only do a right hand version, and wouldn't you know I just happen to require left. I've heard it's not too difficult to convert one to the other, is that correct? i just found the following on a Lucas website which suggests it's very easy indeed, or is this not the case for most alternators? "If you order the wrong hand then its very easy to convert a left-hand unit to a right hand unit and vice versa: 1) Loosen the 3 bolts that hold the casing on (the casing is just a cover, its not sprung - nothing will jump out) 2) Turn the body around (there are only 2 possible positions, left or right hand) while holding the plastic end cap (the plastic end cap must not rotate) 3) Retorque the casing bolts"

It goes back on pretty much straight away. Did you get a chance to check yours? I've also tried playing with the load settings and turning it off manually. Doesnt change a thing.

Thanks for all of the input guys! The most confusing thing is that at certain times of the day I get only 14v on the solar side (left of the monitor) and about 1 amp. This reading is pretty much the same as I was getting a couple of days ago with 1 panal. With 2 panals in series now it seems I should be getting 30v minimum on the left hand side (before they are converted into amps in the middle). Why would I be getting the same volts from the array as when I only had 1 panal? Yes I've tried that but it always comes back on! Is it draining power even if nothing is plugged Into it?

Here is a snap of my monitor this morning, battery is at 13.4 and was at 12 when I went to bed. 3.8A on solar side but 16.4 on battery symbol. Does this mean I'm actually getting 16.4A? I'm not using any appliances yet. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BxkJnMByKGOgVF9FbzNfS3BSQUU

My controller does the same and kicks in at 14.6, but unfortunately my batts were only at 12.7 when I was getting the few amps. I really don't understand this, I should be getting several times that. I'm worried it could be one or more of the panals.

2 X 250w solar panels and a 40A MPPT charge controller. Just doubled my array. Only getting around 14V from the array and about 0.4A current. Was as high as 60V earlier in the sun but still only a couple of amps current. Am I correct in thinking something is wrong here? Shouldn't this kind of array be putting out way more amps? I'm wondering if a wiring problem could be causing this. The MPPT i supposed to 'boost charge' until the batteries reach 14.4V and mine are stuck at 12.3V right now...

Yeah updating the controller from 20a to40a. As for the cable, 10mm from controller to batteries, but 8mm between panals. This is what Bimble reccomends I think, is that ok?

I have a fuse already that is 60A, but it says 60a32v, will that do?

Hello! What amp fuse would I need on a 12v system between my MPPT controller and the batteries with 500w of solar? Upgrading from 250w, which currently has 30A fuse :-)

I love you, old goat, and your emphasis of matters of importance. But seriously, why on earth would my alternator be charing my batts at 14V now? I mean I would call that acceptable, especially for such a small pulley. This, coupled with the fact that I can do a simple bulb swap so that the alternator kicks in with less revs, is bound to give me reservations about the necessity of other options.

Yet another development. I was just opening up the engine room and removing some boards to get the measurements blizzard mentions... I thought before I continue I might as well do a quick voltage reading since I haven't done one since I re-installed the alternator after getting it tested. The ignition light was stubborn, but went out with enough revs. Once it was out, I took a reading of the starter battery, which had jumped from 12.3V to charging at 13.6v! managed to get it as high as 13.98V. So a serious improvement and no obvious reason why.

Yes certainly I am, what do you mean by work though Richard? I'm just here looking for advice and I don't want to put anyone out. It seems that the thing I need to know most is where to source this pulley from.

Never mind I see what you meant, the flywheel being the wheel on the crankshaft that only moves when the boat does!

Could you clarify what you mean by getting power out if the flywheel? Oh well, I'll enlarge the hole to 13 inches diameter and put in a hatch. Getting through the other wall is not a problem. Finding a 12" camshaft pulley for a lister is not proving easy though.

I have found a small access hatch for the pulley! Once I got to it and removed the opening, you can see the end of the pulley wheel here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxkJnMByKGOgYzNPa1JIRzF2YmM/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxkJnMByKGOgUThxcmM0bG1Scjg/view?usp=sharing After chatting to another boater and doing some SR3 research, it seems that the metal bit poking through the wall is actually a part of the pulley, not the shaft. It seems that the pulley comes off via a nut just behind this small hole in the picture? Is this correct? If this is the case, the boat wasn't designed so terribly after all... because the pulley has enough space to be removed on the other side of the wall once loosened on this side (the bedroom side). No additional hole would need to be made.

Hey Richard, Its about two inches I reckon, I'm off the boat right now but I'll take a closer look this evening

I know, thats what I did. I'm at the point where I am looking forward to making everything more accessable by making an access hatch. However, I'm not sure there is enough space between the engine and the wall for the bigger pulley if it is going to be brought forward to drop in front of that metal mount. Wouldn't I need to pull the engine back a bit permanently? On another note that has been covered (but that I'm still not quite clear on)... would a higher rated alternator not kick in earlier and produce more power with less revolutions? Why is it that a higher wattage bulb goes out quicker and sends the charge easier? How many watts bulb would be appropriate? I beleive 2 is standard for 12V systems

Obviously I will if the only other option is to lift the bloody thing out!

Hahaha. Okay I refitted the alternator and have taken some measurements and some more pictures and even a video so you guys can get an idea of why I don't want to go through this wall. No, I don't care about wallpaper. I am not afraid to use a jigsaw either... its just that it is awkawrd as feck to do and I would rather make sure this is what is needed. As you can see from the pics I need to remove the bed frame (which is not easy), and make the hole in the limited space behind the water tank and poo tank. Video: Pictures: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxkJnMByKGOgfmVGNmExTmpNMnc5ajdZYldncjZIOUhJUHNXSW1WYndqZzI5SVM5aGNhQkE&usp=sharing Now, should I expect to be able to get a reading directly from the alternator with it spinning but not plugged into any battery? Because I tried that and get basically no reading. When it is connected to the battery I am getting 12.7 now, which makes me think I am reading the battery rather than the alternator output in this instance? What on earth is going on? Is it just that you get NO charge until you give it enough revs? I have fitted it EXACTLY as it was before and the belt is nice and tight. As you can see from the measurements in the picture, there is nothing obstructing the room for a bigger pulley ABOVE the current 7 inch one, but BELOW it there is no space because there is some kind of engine bracket underneath it. I'm guessing that, becuase the shaft needs to be in the centre of a new pulley, and that cant be moved up, there would need to be space below the current pulley to accomodate a bigger one?

I finally had time to remove the alternator and get it tested. It's fine. The guy said that it's the split chare relay is bringing down the voltage. Does that sound right? If I need to increase the pully to make it spin faster, to be able to charge both leisure bank and starter via the split charge, what about increasing the wheel size by adding to the diameter of the current wheel? Adding an 'outer wheel' around the circumference of the current one, making the current one a kind of inner wheel? Is that possible? This is really not about decour, removing the wall will be a PAIN :-(

I must have called 10 different local auto repair shops, and even Halfords Autocentre in Finchley... None of them are able or willing to test an alternator that I bring in seperate from a car. Is this normal!?!? At this point I'll prbably just buy a new A127. As for the pully size, I'm thinking I can add an additional wheel to run with the existing one, rather than replacing it with a bigger one.