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Keajre

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Everything posted by Keajre

  1. Dear Friends, Has anyone seen this happen before. I called the vendor (Barden-UK) but they weren't very helpful. I have logged a ticket with Victron now, but interested to see if anyone has any thoughts on the matter. Easiest way to describe is by screenshot. Victron Multiplus Inverter 3k 12v Victron BMV 702 Battery Monitor The discrepancy is 0.1 - 0.2 out. Since the useable range of a 12v setup is quite narrow, 0.2 discrepancy is quite a lot! I have installed this myself. The shunt is right next to the batteries. All negatives are wired through the shunt. If I take a voltage reading with a volt meter it is the same as the inverter. Was wondering if this a fault of the device (batt mon) or a fault elsewhere. At a loss to grasp the root cause!
  2. got it, so you have to disconnect current to see where you are in terms of approximate DoD (in the absence of a gravity reading). My inverter is set to disconnect at 11.6 but I may alter that. However sometimes if you pull a larger load the voltage might need to drop for a few seconds below 12v which is surely fine? Esp if it recovers immediately So you mean sustained at below 12v and readings taken without a load after a brief rest period Yes I have the Victron battery monitor. Thanks for yr advice Wow that's a beast of an article will read that ty
  3. Hi, it's the 12v 3k multiplus. I've already studied the manual. Maybe I'll change the voltages based on yr advice. I've heard about the Trojans, likely will be my next purchase.
  4. Well I've spent many a day out on the cut. No idea why but I had 11.6v as an acceptable voltage in my mind. glad I've been corrected so I don't ruin yet more batteries
  5. So when you say 12.2, is that under load or after rest period?
  6. Hi, Float at 13.8v / absortion and bulk @ 14.4v is under charging? 12.1. Gosh and I thought I was on the money with my battery care. Thanks for the advise
  7. Well it floats at 13.8 Hi, Its set to float at 13.8v (absortion and bulk is set to 14.4v). Storage mode takes it down to 13.2v. I beleive this is opitimum for standard leisures? I do equliase at around 15v (could be 15.5 I dont recall). Do I need to take the caps off when I eqialise for the gassing? I often dont bother. With the Victron you cannot set (to my knowledge) any variable for the equlisation phase, its pre-defined. Plate shedding, yes you cannot seem to win I agree. So you are genuniely happy with your trojans? Two years with the same SGR? Really? Well since I cannot draw more than 70AH from the set, stopping it dropping down that far when out on the cut if very difficult. I have solar, but there is thick cloud cover which adds to the problem
  8. odd that it only happens at night, def worth a try though
  9. Dear Friends, I bought three 110AH leisure batteries for £90 each back in July 2015. I monitor the specific gravity of the cells and take a record every few months. So from 12th July to now, the readings have fallen through the floor. I have stuck to battery charging best practises all the way. I NEVER discharge below 11.6 (or let it get close normally). I am 80% on grid power, 20% cruising. I have a Victron 12v 3kw inverter / charger. I only bulk charge at 50amps. The charger actually has a special function so if the batts have been fully charged for 24hrs the float charge is adjusted to reduce corrosion of the positive plate and then increased once a week to equalise which is supposed to prevent stratification of the electrolyte (as well as sulphating). Pretty clever stuff. The waters are topped up always (goes without saying) Basically the dam batteries have been treated like royalty. In return I get a SGR (specific gravity reading) of 1.225 after being fully charged for over 48hrs. When they were new under the same conditions, the SGR was 1.289. These are all temperature corrected values. I also 'eqialise' the batteries once every two months or so. This is achieved using a feature on the charger which increases voltage by 1v for one hour and helps to knock the sulphate off the plates. I do this only once the battery has been fully charged for a while before starting. 1.225 is usually the reading you get for 75% charge (according to Battery University). I can draw about 70AH - 100AH (depending on various factors of course) (out of 330AH) before the voltage gets close to 11.6v. I know 330AH is not supposed to be achievable, as DoD should never exceed 50% with PBs. Still 70-100 seems a bit lame. So would be really interested to hear of other people’s experiences. Is this just a case of ‘buy cheap buy twice’ or do most PBs pretty much suck in this way? Am considering Lithium Phoshate as a replacement at a future date but that is a whole other can of worms which has been talked to death already I’m sure J I don’t want to spent hundreds more on say Rolls batteries only to find more or less the same experience. Many Thanks Stuart
  10. I own the same inverter. My fan only comes on when I'm inverting a lot of amps, or when the charger has been on for a long time when connected to shore (I charge at 60amps in bulk mode) I have 3 110AH lesire batteries. I have a 240v fridge too btw (about to get a new shoreline 12v in next week). Id highly recommend not disabling the fan, prob comming on for a reason. Have you spoken to Victron? I have found their Swedish based tech support to be ok.
  11. Well, there is another one yes, I just took a pic. You can see one ajacent to the chimney and one down at the other end (the one I orignally posted the pic of) . One at the front, one in the middle. The one at the front has a gap and a bolt hole through it. The one in the middle is just a single plate with a hole and shackle. Odd! I think best use case would probably be as Sea Dog mentioned . . . for padlocking stuff to them, or maybe for bow / centre ropes.
  12. I see your point. If it was too high, and not strong enough the wind would likely bring it down. I was just looking at LCD mounts with pole fittings. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Monitor-Mount-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B00435PNQO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1464173670&sr=8-3&keywords=lcd+pole+mount Strong, takes adjustable pole size, and the mount (intended to the back of the LCD) could be mounted onto the side of my solar box. The solar box is very strong (I made it that way!) so should provide the support. Then I can easily remove the pole when travelling, and for low bridges. With a fairly substantial pole it should stand up to the wind in theory. I like the telescopic pole idea, thanks. That would be a useful addition to the design.
  13. Do you find that kind of height gives enough gain for the antenna? Is higher better in your experience? I think if I use my solar box as the base for the pole mounting, then I dont need to drill into the steel roof. Ye you're right, I'll leave it, didnt think of that, would be useful for padlocking something up in the future :-)
  14. Any idea what that cleat (the one in the picture I attached) is actually for? Considering cutting it off, filling, and re-painting it as Ive never had a use for it
  15. Hello, The anntenna would be something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Omni-Directional-4G-3G-LTE-MIMO-External-Antenna-for-D-Link-DWR-921-DWR921-/231470591295?hash=item35e4b8ed3f:g:NkkAAOSwP8hTxorE I was thinking around 5ft tall to make it as high as feasibly possible. I assumed Id have to use guy ropes, however seeing the post from Sea Dog is interesting. I am presently building a solar box for a new mono solar panel. I might try to adapt a platform on the box itself and house a pole on that, pretty much copy Sea Dog. I havent done enough research on the benefits of height yet. If just a two foot pole ontop of a solar box will suffice then id be happy with that. Thanks for your reply
  16. Thank you all for so many replies, this gives me loads of ideas and enough direction and xamples to get me going. Really appreciated thanks so much
  17. Dear Friends, I am starting to stray away from my moorings more and more as time passes. I work from home, home being my 55ft NB. I am looking to install a high gain telecoms antenna to boost signal strength for mobile data reception. I have an idea which antenna to buy, but I wanted some advice about how to install the roof pole. From what I can see, the roof already has a suitable fitting for a small mast pole. So I can logically see the fitting could allow me to house a pole in between the two flanges of the roof fitting. I could drill a hole in the pole and put a bolt through it. That would secure any lateral movement. It would also allow me to raise and lower the pole. How do I keep it raise and supported in both directions though (stop it falling forward or backward)? The boat has railings all around the perimeter of the roof. I was thinking of using a cable from the front (bow) railing. That would stop the pole failing back when raised. In order to stop the raised pole from failing forwarded though, I'd need a cable to run from the stern. There is a cleat half way down a roof. But would look a bit odd and use a lot of cable, plus obstruct walking space on the roof. Hope that makes some vague sense! Any advice would be kindly accepted. Stuart
  18. Something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-4-BSP-2-PCE-TAP-SET-TAPER-PLUG-TAP-GAS-THREAD-BRITISH-STANDARD-PIPE-/161453183682?hash=item25975c12c2:g:KjoAAOxyQfJTfK2M I cant find any taps that are 20mm in dia.
  19. The bill has already been recorded, and repayment is in the system. Its a special system, some call it by its tibetan name, Karma :-D
  20. I dont have access to the inside no. I think the cutting a thread and then plugging it would be fine. Thanks Thank you think tank, very helpful
  21. Ah yes, I like this idea. Thanks
  22. ye it woudl have to be an ultra thing one! I'll stick to curtain twitching :-) I see your idea, could work. So penny washer, then rubber washer, then button bolt. What would the bolt screw into though? I got a wine cork in it at the moment! Having the roof painted soon, so wanted to more permanent solution . .
  23. Hello, I have a 20mm hole in the roof of my NB. Its 6mm thick steel. Used to be where the TV antenna was. I have no used for the hole, but seems too big to use P38, and I dont have access to a welder (although I could if that was the only way). Would be interested in any advise or thoughts Many Thanks Stuart
  24. Hi Ken, I have been looking for exactly what you have made, ie the solar box storage / tilt system. Would you be so kind as to show me some more picures of the construction as I'd really like to have a go at making one myself. Looking to get x4 100w bluesolar victron panels (150cm x 55cm approx) with a MPPT reg. I've a victron inverter, so will be getting a Victron MPPT and possibly the Colour Control GX too as it look amazing! Anyway, if youd obligue with helping me understand the high level construction of your wonderful storage / solar box I'd be most grateful. Tried to PM you, but not sure if thats possible on here. Thanks
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