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Posts posted by bottle
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Following on from the cheap Maplin 1kW inverter what is the power required for a washer if the heater is not used ie. stat turn right down and machine plumbed into hot water supply.
Timboharticus
If you check the rating plate it may have the rating of the element and with simple mathmatics this would give the power required without the heater but washing machines put quite a load on the supply when the motor starts up.
If you only have one fill i.e. hot or cold the same supply will also be used for the rinse cycle.
Our machine at home has both and still uses the heater but only uses the cold for rinsing.
Obviously the machine will run without the heater element but they also sense the water temperature and wiil not continue the cycle until the temperature is reached so becoming locked at that point. Thats what happened to ours when the element failed.
This all only applys to a fully automatic machine now if you have a manual one well thats different.
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Did however buy a new water pump for £170, one of the new processor controlled jobbies that don't need an accumulator. Will fit it later this week, be interesting to see if it's any good, and more importantly quieter than my sureflow.
Regards
Andy.
Andy
Would be interested in a report on the new pump when you have tried it out.
Does it do what it says on the box?
Thank you
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Dear JK
If you are still near the place where the relay was fitted ask them to check it as the problem was not there before.
Alternatively I would look at the relay to see if there are any loose connections or wires not connected at all.
After that my "expertise" runs out but there must be some one who may help you further.
good luck
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Dear All
I think the best thing to do is put in all the protection possible and earth anything that can be.
The protection equipment market is changing rapidly so try to get expert advice where ever possible.
Electricity is a wonderful thing but you cannot see it or smell it. You can certainly feel it if it bites though.
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Dor
You was never wrong there just is not a "norm"
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Dor
As you now understand, I'm sure, if the item you are using does not have an earth terminal an earth is not required. If it is possible for "you" to touch any part that could become live i.e. a metal casing then an earth is required.
An example in a domestic situation is a ceiling light fitting an earth wire is routed all the way to the ceiling rose but is not continued to the lamp holder unless it is metal.
An RCD is always a good idea. This should not ever be rated above the cable capacity but can be lower.
Sorry that we wandered of subject
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Is he a member?
No
but I think he had a circus or something similar a bit like this forum sometimes
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I am sure I will recover but as usual we have wandered
Has the info supplied answered the original problem?
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No! coz I have also been back and edited my post and now it is correct "Law"
Nah nah
I am speechless
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Maffi
been back and edited the post. Am I safe from the Caw now.
Have been to a dinner party.
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NO SIR!
I have to differ there.
An inverter changes DC to AC. It can be static or rotary.
A transformer, transforms one AC voltage to another AC voltage it too can be static or rotary. It can transform high voltages to low voltages or low to high. Can also be used as Isolation transformers by having two coils of equal size giving the same output as input.
To change AC to DC you need a transformer, a suitable rectifier and smoothing circuit. This is then a Transformer Rectifier Unit (or wall wart as I have recently heard them called) or mobile phone charger.
An auto transformer, will, if the secondary half of the coil becomes open circuit apply the full input voltage across the load. Your statement implies that this does not happen.
An Inverter is not a transformer though it 'may' contain one.
Maffi
You are correct if you look at the time I posted it I think I may have been inverted if not tranformed.
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Any earth is only supplied for safety reasons.
There is not one piece of electrical equipment that requires an earth.
It is used where the outer casing is made of conductive material i.e. metal.
The earth supplies the least resistence for electrical flow for when a fault in the insulation breaks down. this could be any fault but usually is a live supply connecting to the metal casing. If the earth was not available the casing would be live, then if you touch it you complete the cicuit (and your eyes lightup
)Electricity (230volt mains) is generated by generaters that supply 3 phases. To try and explain this: there are three coils surrounding a rotating magnet which induces the coils with the voltage. Each coil has two ends (obvious) one end of each coil is connected to a common point therefore making the neutral / earth.
An inverter is a transformer and there is not any physical connection from input to the output. THIS STATEMENT IS WRONG PLEASE SEE FOLLOWING POSTS
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You are all correct my house and all previous ones, upstairs was "tank fed" and only kitchen cold was mains. My daughter has recently moved into a "modern" house and all of her cold taps are mains fed.
To fit a shower in this situation completely seperate supplys are taken from cold tank and hot tank to supply shower only. This stops the problem of another tap being turned on and changing the temperature of said shower, it also stops screams in the bathroom.
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Peiople have mentioned here using these little 150 - 300 watt inverters from Maplins and the like for running TVs etc. They usually plug into a lighter socket.
Does anyone bother about linking the earth to the hull? I believe that is the normal practice for larger inverters. I suspect that the earth & neutral are linked anyway to the negative DC input, but what is the recommended way of using these?
If these use a "lighter socket"(12 volt) there will not be any provision for earth, also televisions/radios and similar do not require an earth. If you open the plug, if not sealed, you will not find an earth wire. the reason for this is, the chasis of this type of equipment is used as the return.
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When we first met my wife and I (pretenious or what) we started camping in tents because like most people we were short of money, we progressed to bigger and better tents but got tired of always putting it up or down in the rain. We decided to move onto caravans, new member of family arrived, Again these got bigger with time, the caravans. As all new members always grow they decide not to go with parents so we went back to tents. Not as young as we thought and the ground was harder and it rained even more also the cost of sites was riduculus. Then did B&B touring in our MGB Roadster.
I cannot remember why we hired our first narrow boat but we did. we have hired for along time now, as time went on the boats got bigger, have I written that before.
After that first trip I knew that was where I wanted to be, on the cut, as time went on we decide that I would retire at 60 and we would buy a boat.
I am now 55 and due to cicumstances beyond my control (BBC speak) I am retiring early and about to spruce up the house and put it on the market order the boat and move in with the daughter whilst the boat is built.
To become a liveaboard/continuous cruiser.
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And i think they should be a bit wobbley,
I think we should go to the bar with this
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Bit like the old broom story: "A great broom this, I've had it for twenty years and I've only gone through two handles and three heads".
You've been watching "fools and horses" again aka "trigger"
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I'll bet your sides are just fine and dandy
Don't forget the bow and stern they have to be in proportion
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If all else fails (tonge in cheeck)
Haul it out, cut the bottom off, get rid of the concrete and weld the bottom back on.
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Is that definate or will a bidding war break out.
My bid is two crates of beer
I know
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Hallellula?
I've seen the light and its blue
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seriously, to avoid a lot of unnecessary work, why not leave the offending portholes in place, paint the inside of the glass black, and then complete the lining and insulation on the inside. Cover the patch with a mirror or some other feature.
any welding work will leave you with distorted side panels.
Chris is right this is a serious matter and I agree with his idea. This would protect a ladies modesty.
Wynd lass are the boats either side for hire
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Previous enquires by myself about similar glass lights have resulted in the comment, yes they are fine until the sun really does shine through. If they dont fade the wall/carpet/chair they could cause a serious scorch mark. Bearing in mind I am really looking forward to global warming, because I like the sun and the warmth. I decided not to go with button/mushroom glass.
Cheers
Fyneladye
Are you thinking of bullseyes I believe that these have caused fires
Will it fit?
in General Boating
Posted
I was planning a 57 but ran out of space so will go for 60 that extra 3ft will get a lot more in. It does not seem much but sit in an armchair and measure three feet to the front then laze in the chair. So three feet in the saloon could be more relaxing. In the bedroom more wardrobe space. In the bathroom, space for two, ideal for back washing?
In the galley another storage unit. three feet in the back cabin/engine room space for a utility area or any where in the length, a small bolt hole/office.
The limitations of length may stop me using some canals but I shall be living on board so I think the extra space will compensate, after all how often will I travel the "short lock canals"