bottle
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Posts posted by bottle
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Having read your second post, I would say as per Mike in post#2.
Neither you or your brother are boaters, sorry if a bit harsh but you both have lives that are shore based.
As to spending lots of money (thousands) that will not be recoverable because of a guilt is definitely not the way to go.
Do not under estimate the cost (thousands) and the time (years) that it will take to sort the boat.
The only reason to keep the boat is if you or your brother are absolutely, positively sure you want to live on the canals.
If you decide to keep it, remember the ongoing costs, licence, insurance and mooring, probably over £3,000 per annum (total) and that is before you use it.
Then there are maintenance/repair costs.
That is £5,000 per annum in total.
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As to what you have done wrong will only be guess work, you may need to get someone in that can check it for you, of course they need to have some knowledge of how boats are wired.
Have you connected all the cables you disconnected and if so put them back in the correct place.
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Have a look here a http://chandlerydirect.com/chandlery-store-uk/12-volt-inverters-chandlery-store.html
ps. Have bought from this company but am not connected in anyway whatsoever.
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Just a quick question, in an marina winter mooring can we stay on board, or is this solely for parking boat ?
The definitive answer... ask the marina as they will be different
.Some do,some don't some maybe, some maybe if you do not broadcast it.
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You are correct, the resale of electricity is that it is only allowed to be sold at the price they buy it at but a service charge is allowed.
As to
Is it included? On a meter? Charged separately?
The answer is yes or possibly no.
Each and every marina will be different.
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Strange, I would sooner smell effluent than elsan blue.
To OP as per post #2, we use Odourloss in our black tank.
If previously used 'blue' then a thorough clean of tank/cassete is necessary or the blue will kill the good bacteria.
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Is it ever recommended to 'do a quick fix' by removing bubbling paint, remove worst of rust and repaint whilst portholes are still insitu?
No, not really it will be OK possibly for a year, the best way is as you detailed remove, treat, and paint.
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Probably as above.
My phone, I know not an i-pad but I did have it set to update only on Wi-Fi but forgot I have Wi-Fi on board and the phone had been 'paired' with it.
So automatic updates are now turned OFF, of course I do, do regular checks, usually in the pub.
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Hi Andy
Al the above is very technical and correct.
Just to possibly confuse you more, I have six batteries (130 amp.hr each) wired to give 24v so my bank is in theory, 390 amp.hr @ 24v.
The usable capacity,in theory is 195 amp.hrs
The BMV SOC reading was way out because the default battery capacity is 200 amp.hr, the BMV battery capacity has to be set correctly for your bank but without a proper test procedure you cannot know the true capacity of your battery bank and it is a constantly changing amount due to ageing and lack of complete charging. that is why the BMV is not the best to give accurate SOC readings.
It will read amps in and amps out but as you know you have to put more back than you take out.
So I suggest that you have been told fibs by the BMV as to when your battery bank is charged.
The best way as per mentioned by others is to,use the volt and amp reading to have some guide as to when your batty bank is charged.
High voltage and low amp, so for me that is 29.6v and about 4amps, it takes hours and hours so I compromise but give them a good charge once a week..
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Not really just his normal, absolute, pedantic self.
He may be being a little awkward but his posts in this thread are all correct.
Others have taken a guesstimate.
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Confusion rained.
12v dc systems not working
240v ac systems are working
As per others probably a fuse, circuit breaker has turned off the 12v dc.
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Original scenario/post.
How to wind up and get people on their 'High horses'
Go for the sympathy vote, imply you were defending yourself,then admit you broke the law.
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As with many things now, it would probably be cheaper to replace than repair.
Inverters warm up gradually and cool gradually, no sudden changes and if there was, the fans should counteract it.
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As a very rough guide, depending on make, efficiency and probably a few other things, an inverter has load of 1amp so it uses 24 amp.hrs in a 24 hour (one day) period, just sitting there turned ON
Some inverters have an 'eco-mode' again depending on the above it may have a load of 0.5 amp so 12 amp.hrs in the same period. not doing anything
but it will not be in eco-mode for the 24 hrs, if it was it would be better to turn it OFF.
So lets say the inverter is in use 12 hrs and in eco-mode for 12 hours (using the above figures) that would be 12 amp.hrs plus 6 amp.hrs, equals 18 amp.hrs
That means a saving of 6 amp.hrs in any 24 hour period.
The load it is supplying has been ignored.
Play with the figures as there is not a yes, no answer to this it depends on your boat and your usage.
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It's faulty fans should start before the 'overheat' alarm, send it back to Sterling, give him a phone call first.
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Still there, if you want it.
The majority of the boaters that did the work, were hirers and sharers.
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Cleared by boaters at 12:45 Hrs.
Towpath passable, waterway open.
Only saw one C&RT, he took photo's, two hours after original reporting, then left.
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North of Bridge 45. North Kilworth Wharf.
South Husbands Bosworth Tunnel
Tree down blocking towpath and waterway.
07:45 hrs.
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Victrons take on it:
Dynamic current limiterThis setting is an expansion of the AC input current limit mechanism. If disabled, the AC input current limit is specified by the AC input current limit setting. When this setting is enabled the effective AC input current limit depends on the load history. When the load is lower than the AC input current limit the effective AC input current limit is also lower but slightly above the load. If the load increases the effective limit also increases with a delay. The thought behind this is that when a generator is running at a low load it cannot switch to full load immediately and it needs some time to increase the power.
An example:
We have a 2kVA generator. We adjust the AC input current limit setting to 8A and we enable PowerAssist. We have no load connected and the batteries are fully charged so therefore no current from generator is drawn. At this moment we connect a load of 7A to the Multi.
Normally the Multi would not react because the load is below the AC input current limit setting. The result is that the full load is connected to the generator which will drop in voltage because it cannot deliver that current instantly. If the output of the generator drops to below the AC low disconnect limit, the Multi will switch to inverter function and the back feed relay will open, disconnecting the generator from the load. If however we had this "Dynamic current limiter" setting enabled the effective AC input current limit would be far lower than 8A because the load was zero. So connecting a load of 7A will result in the Multi starting to Assist and no voltage drop is seen on the output. The generator will start to supply the load and the effective AC input current limit will slowly increase to 8A. At that moment the Multi will stop assisting and the full load is on the generator.
This is a powerful option in combination with PowerAssist but even with PowerControl it can prevent unnecessary switching to inverter because the charge current will reduce when AC input current becomes higher than the effective AC input current limit.
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Hi Bottle,
Thanks for the link, I have downloaded the program and been having a look in test mode !
I have a couple of questions:
Is it possible to take the setttings already done by me and the electrician (from the dip switches) would this be done using 'get settings' Then would I need to set 'AC1 input current limit (priority)' to my genny max output. Which is continuous 1600w and max 2000w not sure what this is in amps?
What does 'dynamic current limiter' mean?
Is is a good idea to put AES on, as I understand it this is like a power saver mode.
Could anyone explain the vitural swith a little, I understand this is very complicated piece of kit and am doing my best, thanks for everyones input.
Martin
Virtual switch is simply a switch that turns ON or OFF when certain parameters are set.
It can be used to do many things but I use it to auto start my 7Kw generator.
Mine is set to turn ON when a load of 1000 watts (1 Kw) has been on for 15 seconds, it then runs for a minimum of 60 minutes
These are figures I have set for my particular set-up.
There are many many more configurations.
At the moment you can forget about it.
hmmm ok, well I am pretty sure this is what the electrician set the dip switches to when installed on friday, so perhaps I wont need the cable.
But I did try and run my washing machine a miele 2670 on a 40degree quick wash while the genny was plugged in and the victron switched to inverter on, I tried to keep an eye on my battery monitor but didnt correlate with the victron, the multiplus started flashing low battery after about 4mins so I got worried and ended the wash, the batteries were definately full. 640ah (6 T105) the multipus also kept clicking (switching) from inverter on/ charger on lights.
Does this make any sense ? perhaps it was working ok and I just got worried by the flashing low battery light.
Thanks
Martin
This is normal.
What it is showing is that the inverter is assisting the generator/shoreline when an initial heavy load is turned ON but then the generator catches up and takes over.
As mentioned I have a 7Kw generator but this still gets assistance in this way, for example the oven (thermostatically controlled) cycles ON and OFF to maintain the set temperature, the combi can be heard assisting each time it cycles ON, only for seconds until the generator catches up with the load.
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Martin (Meerlaan)
Download the program,VEconfig, from the Victron site. Victron link
You can have a look at it and what it does by using 'fake target' from 'port selection' it will give all the settings that are available but the number of settings for your actual unit may not be the full gambit.
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Martin (meerlaan)
Power assist will be automatic
The combi should always be ON, charger only is for when you wish to charge the batteries (shoreline or genny) and not use 240v ac onboard.
I have the same inverter, a washing machine and a 6 amp shoreline supply. I haven't tried to "undo" a setting that "economises" the wave form as I haven't got the manual and not sure how to do that, but I understand that the "energy saving" function needs to be disabled. Ours just causes the drum to "twitch" ( presume can't handle the start-up surge set as it is) and need to discover how to do this.
I am sure someone will be along soon though !
Nick
ETA - as John says, the power assist happens automatically, (assuming the setting I need to change is correct)
To do that you need a laptop, a program (VE Config) and the interface.
The 'energy saving' only happens when there is 'no load' whenever there is a load the combi senses it and comes out of 'energy saving'.
Only useful if you want to leave the combi ON for long periods without it inverting, say over night but you could save more by turning it OFF.
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There are new moorings after second lock up from the Severn. I think these were added as "holding" moorings when the Severn is in flood, as one of the new warning lights is there.
Thanks for the update, it was a couple of years ago that we were there.
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Check you still have a split pin on the nut too.
Ah! yes but no, but yes.
I do not have one.
Mine has a stainless steel 'tab washer' saves having to re-drill the shaft for a split pin when the prop has been refitted.
mooring for hire boat
in New to Boating?
Posted
or replace the missing spoon, I kid you not.
As to the OP I was sympathetic at first because of his naivety in thinking it was a good idea but the insult thrown was the decider.
No help from here.