bottle
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Posts posted by bottle
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In the morning before anything else take a voltage reading.
Then check the fluid levels, it should be just above the plates, do not fill to the top of the cell.
Then charge as per WotEver above.
Be there when charging and every so often check the batteries are not getting hot, they may get warm.
Keep the area well ventilated.
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Connections are either male or female, the male one is fitted to the boat.
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Twice per year beginning and end of the 'burning season'.
Also sometimes during the season.
Did have a major restriction once in the last 7 years, reason unknown, did take some shifting,
More is better than less.
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If the start voltage of 13.5 is after some use I would suspect the voltmeter is reading high......
Get an independent voltmeter and check the onboard meter.
This voltage 13.5 was from solar charging at 2.4 amps post #1
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Some further info :
a ) The Alternator is an Iskra - you could try an auto electrician for a regulator (e.g. http://autoelectricalpartsuk.co.uk/, although these people are not near you - will be more local ones)
b ) The terminals referred to are on the Alternator
c ) The voltage is too high - you should find out what the battery chemistry is exactly and ask the manufacturer what the proper charging voltage should be set to for these. There are several types and each has their own requirements for charging voltage They sound expensive batteries and it would be a shame to damage them by frying them unwittingly. I had a quick look for you but couldn't find the info - will try again later
Hope that helps,
Nick
Info in post #2 came from on-lne PDF from manufacturer.
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Gel,AGM, sealed and maintenance free cannot and must not be equalised.
The only batteries that can be equalised are Open Wet Lead acid
Equalisation causes excess gasses,and water loss, which can only be replaced in Open Wet Lead Acid batteries.
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Is this voltage too high??
Simple answer YES
From info on-line for said batteries
Max. 2.4 VPC Max ripple 3.5%
This Max is equal to 14.4 volts assuming a 12v system, ripple maximum would give a maximum voltage of 14.9v (not at that constantly though)
At a guess looks light a regulator fault in the alternator.
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That's reassuring, Tim, but when i made an enquiry a few weeks ago to Beta Marine they stated a service life of approx. 13,000 hours. Our boat has a Barrus Shire but i would have thought service life would be similar, although obviously variable due to factors such as maintenance, engine size etc. If the average narrowboat engine has a much longer service life than 13k then i'll be very happy. When we're next on the boat we'll be giving it a good clean and then i'm going to be settling down with a good cuppa (or a beer depending on what time of day it is) and reading through some of the manuals, and hopefully i'll learn a bit more about the Victron and how it's set up. From what i can deduce from the photograph and from memory the charger circuit has to be switched manually, but i guess that's no big issue.
It will/should be automatic, when the Victron combi senses 240v ac supply shoreline/generator, it automatically switches the boats 240v ac direct via the shoreline and effectively turns the inverter OFF and turns the charger ON.
Leave the switch at the combi ON, the charger only position is almost redundant.
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One way valve as close as to the pump as possible.
Not sure but the pump may have one already.
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Lets go back to the beginning,
What makes you think it needs repacking?
It may only need adjustment.
Does it stop dripping, assuming it does drip, when you adjust the greaser.
To adjust, just tighten the two bolts/nuts equally, ¼ turn at a time, to know when adjusted correctly, you should still be able to turn the prop shaft by hand.
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Not sure what you mean by the ammeter route but an ammeter will tell you the amps going into or out of the battery.
When charging the amps will be high at first and gradually become lower (voltage does the opposite) when the amps are at 1 to 2% of battery capacity the batteries are 'fully' charged.
Now because batteries age it is not always possible to get down to 1 or 2% so when the reading (amps) is low and has not got any lower for a bout an hour the batteries are 'fully' charged.
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It'll have to be, I've ordered it!
It'll give me an idea of the load presented by combinations of my appliances, all of which specify a 13A fuse and a consumption of nnnnKthingies per year and nothing else that is useful.
No it will not, what it will give you is an instantaneous measurement of the items load and that will vary especially with a washing machine.
The washing machine may even have the rating of the heating element on the label. Subtract that from the maximum load and you have the cold wash answer.
As per Ditchcrawler, the labels will give you items maximum load (W/V = A)
Now you have ordered it, it may be more interesting to watch than the TV.
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None of the above, if solid fuel.
Pure wood ash could be put under a hedge but not in a pile, spread it around. Never in the cut.
Let solid fuel ash cool in a bucket (outside of boat) then put it in the refuse sack and use the waste disposal sites provided by C&RT.
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There is only one Smartguage.
Example, not a recommendation of seller or anything, link:
http://www.cactusnav.com/merlin-smartguage-battery-monitor-p-11874.html
Once you have it please read the instructions and manual carefully.
It does have one foible (so do all the other meters available) that it is possibly inaccurate when the battery is being charged but accurate when battery is at rest or being discharged.
It is the simplest to connect and the simplest to read just a little interpretation and understanding, as with all meters, is required..
This link is to the web site of the inventor/designer and will answer all your questions on batteries and charging.
You could add an ammeter to actually know when your batteries are 'fully' charged but for now the Smartgauge will be enough..
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Some of the answers given here, in my opinion, could be dangerous, especially to someone that, with respect, does not yet have enough knowledge of electrics to be asking the question. Of course it may be worded badly.
Lets take the first question at face value:
1. Can I use 12v devices whilst connected to the mains?
The answer is not simple, it needs to be qualified.
12v dc equipment must not be connected to the 'mains' 240v ac.
12v dc equipment can be use at the same time as the boat has 240v ac connected but they cannot be inter-connected.
Second question:
2. Does the mains hook up charge my batteries?
Again a qualified answer is needed.
'Mains' 240v ac cannot be connected directly to the batteries, the batteries can be charged from the 'mains' but the use of a charger is needed.
A multi stage charger is required and one designed for marine use would be the best.
I also would advise Diana to seek advice from an electrician that has knowledge of boat wiring.
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As to when it became the norm. probably depends on the builder and the cost of the boat.
As to comparisons...
Do not know the quality but google has plenty of answers.
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Howard
Not sure if this is any good for what you want but if you download this and then open, it opens Google Earth with colour coded canals.
Put Braunston in search top left.
https://productforums.google.com/forum/#!topic/gec-dynamic-data-layers/tLHfU8VSSzs
Go to PLACES and you can adjust what you see.
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O2 is the only one (according to the locals) that it is possible to get in the area and I understand even that is not always good.
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Hi Tim
As you know we were near your location recently and with twin aerials mounted on cabin top to the mi-fi inside, we got diddly squat.
Always been the same. phone is the same never get a signal.
ps. on EE.
You could always set up your own wi-fi system as per marinas, from your 'other location' (settee) believe you had a signal there and have a Yagi type aerial at the boat, ain't going to be cheap though.
Have a look here, to give some idea: http://www.solwise.co.uk/index.html
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We have:
Washer dryer, supplied by a 7kw generator, works OK
Never used the dryer bit in 7 years.
It will not be only the need for electricity but a whole lot of water for the wash and even more if it is a condensing dryer.
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New stove, will need to be run in gently (do not want to crack it on its first lighting) so keep the vents more closed than open once the initial lighting has taken off.
Just a single layer of coal on top of kindling and fire lighter (we cheat and do not use paper) is all that is needed to get it going.
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Any charger will charge any battery bank the only differing factor is time.
have a look here for a better explanation
http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/chargesize.html.
Lots of other good information on that site
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From your first post table, you will notice that they are using the 'ten percent'
ruleguide, that is that the charger should be 10% of the battery bank capacity.Now await the incoming
, there is also a guide that 15% is OKSo for a bank of 140 amp.hrs a charger of 42 amp or 63 amps would be OK.
Personally I run a 390 amp.hr bank and have 80 amp.alternator and a 50 amp charger (three stage)
Never seen 80 amps from the alternator, cannot run it fast enough and the charger only hits 50 amps for a fairly short time, depending on SOC of the bank.
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Yes there is, as far as Foxton from Norton junction but he will not be there for some time.
Expected tomorrow (Wednesday) week at Braunston so will be about 9/10 days before he arrives at Foxton, all being well and no delays.
Mark on Callisto. Phone or text on: zero,seven,seven,zero,two, 031718.
, there is also a guide that 15% is OK
Stoppage At Railway Bridge 42A (Cathiron) Northern Oxford Canal
in Stoppages
Posted
As per Matty and talking to fuel boat a week ago he is still planning to run and understands that the notice is now correct.