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MarkHez

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Posts posted by MarkHez

  1. Can you get servos which are powerful enough to drive a full size narrowboat's steering and gearchange/throttle? If so, where from (do you have a link)?

    Windscreen wiper motor and gearbox for throttle/gear, 24v mobility scooter motor/gearbox for steering. There are many instructions on the internet on how to equip them with positional feedback for servo use.

  2. if the external visual things are that bad - what are the 'hidden' things like engines going to be like.?

     

    Possibly in better condition that those in boats belonging to people who only know how to polish? My boat looks bleedin awful, but mechanically it's quite spot on!

  3.  

    That's the Hillman Imp petrol engine, this is a 1950's diesel

     

    Richard

    Forgive me but the OP contradicts itself (although now I've seen it's years old!) - the engine on the auxiliary water pumps carried on green goddess appliances was a petrol Coventry Climax engined Godiva Fire Pump (at least the one I have is!).

     

    The only "Godiva" engine that I'm aware of is a V8 Petrol.

     

    [edit] after further research I stand corrected about the 2 cylinder diesel!

  4. Relatively easy, but rather annoying having to lock twice. Are you on a broad or narrow canal? If you have 2 boats of narrow beam, they'll fit breasted up in a wide lock.

  5. I live on a 27ft Centre cockpit cruiser, power is all solar (alternator stopped working in winter and I haven't got round to fixing it yet). There's more than enough room for me on my own, and it wasn't unbearable when living with my ex mrs and her border collie!

     

    Yes I would like to upgrade to a bigger boat eventually, but this is perfectly adequate to live on!

  6. Personally I would continue using the diggers rad and fan unless theres a good reason for getting rid of it, is the running temp ok? Heat exchangers, manifolds pumps and all the other stuff is expensive. Well done for connecting up the flywheel to the gearbox and shaft etc, that can be challenging engineering.

     

    The reason for getting rid of it, is I can't put the cockpit floor in place while cruising, as the radiator sticks up through it by 2" !

     

    I'd be going with a dry (lagged) exhaust, just water pump from the seacock, through a strainer, through the gearbox oil cooler, through a plate heat exchanger for the engine, then back out through a skin fitting.

     

    Plate heat exchangers can be had for £30-40 quid, which is why I need to know if it would be suitable, or if it would block up too easily having raw canal water pumped through it!

  7. Hi all, the Perkins 4108 that I had in my boat (27ft cruiser) was beyond economical repair, so I fitted an Isuzu 3KC1 that I scavenged from a 360 digger.

     

    Currently I am using the diggers radiator and pulley driven fan, but obviously this is not the most efficient method in a small boat engine bay. The perkins used a tube and shell heat exchanger and wet exhaust, unfortunately I sold all this with the engine (for much too low of a price!). As I can see it, I could either use raw water cooling (not really too happy with that idea), or use a heat exchanger system which would also allow me to run the bypass circuit to a calorifier.

     

    So my main question is, where can I find a reasonably priced heat exchanger? Any tube and shell heat exchangers with the word "marine" in the name are ridiculously expensive (upwards of £300 for the size I'd need) whereas a plate heat exchanger of the same thermal properties is about £30.

     

    Has anyone used a plate heat exchanger with raw water before now? The only thing I'm worried about is clogging of the cooling channels, obviously I'd be using a strainer in conjunction with it, but I'm still not sure how easily it would get blocked.

     

     

    If anyone can weigh in on this, it would be very much appreciated.

     

    Thanks

    Mark

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