Murflynn
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Posts posted by Murflynn
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perhaps the moderators should arrange for all threads to be automatically closed and archived if there has been no new post for say 3 months.
Still available for reference, but not for responding.
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but it needs to be hot to vaporise to a dangerous level in the first place, unlike petrol or lpg for example.
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I suppose the diesel engine size would be matched to something approximating the AVERAGE power demand, whilst a diesel prime mover is matched to the Maximum demand. So the average boat may get away with about 10KW or say 15HP, allowing for losses.
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Diesel won't ignite when someone lights up a fag or even if he dunks it in the diesel bilge.
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if I was going down that route I would design the boat to carry a sound-insulated generator pod on the stern deck. For example, Fischer Panda.
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After the debacle of the first episode I erased it from my mind and never even considered watching any more.
Phil
ditto
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The PRV valve will be near the calorifier probably with a red knob on it.
or may be fixed to the calorifier, in the case of a vertical cal it is probably incorporated with the hot water outlet at the top of the tank.
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I have boated inland in the past but when I enquired about a BSC then I was told by a surveyor who's name I've forgotten, to 'Take the cabin doors off, then it's an open boat and you won't need one.' Never gave it any more thought and no - one ever asked.
not necessarily true.
If the boat has an electrical system (e.g. lighting) then it must comply. Ditto for a fixed engine, gas, etc. Ref 3rd paragraph of clause 1.13 of BS scheme requirments. <http://www.boatsafetyscheme.org/media/180428/bss%20guide%202005%20complete%20web.pdf>
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What can be used to insulate a calorifier more.....some sort of jacket....filled with...foam? It already has it's spray foam layer.
you could use a jacket, same as is used on domestic hot water cylinders. Available from any DIY outlet.
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The guy has a small GRP cruiser with limited electrics.
Nothing wrong with the red handled switch in such a situation, but be aware that you need to make 2 new cable terminations with suitable lugs.
I am surprised the BSC surveyor would accept 'quick release' battery terminals, but if he says so, and as you don't need the certificate to travel on the Thames, that may be the best option.
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Why not make a panel with an aluminium angle frame, screwed in place and set in a suitable sealant. Looks good and protects the edges which tend to rot.
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Top to bottom surely!
yes, on reflection that seems right. The water cools as it passes through the coil, so it tends to sink. Thanks.
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The calorifier IS a heat exchanger.
Connect inlet to the cold water supply, preferably with a non-return valve before the connection, and ideally with an accumulator between the NR valve and the calorifier. This will help to avoid water bleeding off from the relief valve.
Connect the engine pipes to one coil (in the case of a vertical calorifier connect to the lower coil, and ensure the engine water circulation is from bottom to top).
Connect outlet to your existing HW system with an isolation valve.
All logical really.
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Just seems odd to have a long and unsupported pipe - looks very vulnerable. I would have expected a solidly attached fitting.
ISO requirement is to support the pipe on both sides of any joint within 150mm, as far as I can recall.
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Like many forms of construction, the hull strength partly derives from the convex shape. This is especially true of ferrocement. A nicely shaped yacht like the one on post #11 is an ideal shape, and the hull thickness may be no more than an inch or so. A narrowboat is quite the reverse, and the construction will tend to be heavy in comparison.
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You haven't said if you plan to replace the fenders later.
There are plenty of products that can be used to make either permanent repairs or temporary repairs.
If the holes are above the static waterline they are only going to suffer from splashing (as long as you are not related to Phylis
)For permanent repair I would mix an epoxy filler using a kit bought from the swindlers, comprising epoxy resin, hardener and microfibre additive. The key is to prepare the hole well inside (if possible). This is not the same product as 'epoxy putty'.
For a temporary repair I would use a good adhesive sealant - your swindler will guide you. I used Bond-It PU18 polyurethane for bonding rope fender around the gunwale, it is like a very hard rubber when cured - very cheap on ebay and very easy to use. Cleans up with white spirit.
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er ...... gas bottle .................. ??
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gunnera tinctoria
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The canal is landlocked, you may be better off buying a boat on it rather than trying to bring one in.
and it is worth pointing out that the standard beam on the Mon & Brec is 9ft, so there are purpose built boats on the canal.
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As long as the locker construction complies with the BSS there is no reason why it shouldn't be located inside the cabin.
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Invisible Boaters?
in General Boating
Posted
Ah! That must explain why sometimes she doesn't speak to me for days.