Felshampo

I thought that at first. But the electrician at North Kilworth marina said as they were AGM's they should have lasted longer. I have no idea how they had been treated. The one thing I do know is the mastervolt inverter was only a year old because the previous one had gone wrong. Apparently its almost cheaper to replace than repair them, something to do with the nearest service centre being in Holland? So the previous owner said. Anyway he gave me the receipt and the guarantee. So this could have damaged the batteries but like so much I know about the boat it's based on educated guesses.

I think they died and that's why they went down to 11volts. The new ones, which are used more than the old ones, are on 12.5 or more in the morning and that's with the temp higher so making the fridge work harder overnight (it's on the lowest setting before you ask). But I am still paranoid about batteries. I don't know if they were knackered when I got them or if they were OK and I killed them. Or if I treated them well but there is something wrong with my charger, generator, alternator or solar panel and one of them killed them. They were 7 years old but the boatyard that put in the new ones said they should have lasted 10 years or more.

Yep

Looked at the switch as that was my first thought and it's OK. But it doesn't turn on the water in the toilet. I wonder how that works. Is it a relay operated valve? Still wonder why switching on the generator cured the problem.

The batteries were showing 94% according to the MasterVolt battery monitor with a voltage of 12.5v. We never let them down much lower than this and charge them every day either through the engine or generator. I know I need a volt meter to test them properly across the terminals. Since the last lot died I am a bit paranoid about them. The water pump works fine as does the boiler, which was the first thing to stop working when the old batteries got flat. All the toilet switch does is open the tap into the toilet, I presume, because when it is on the water pump can be heard working. I tried the switch only a minute after putting the generator on so the batteries would still be low?

Hi. Another odd toilet question. Very occasionally the water switch to our macerator toilet doesn't work. You press it and no water goes into the bowl. Maybe three or four times in the past year. But if you press the button a few times it will work. Then this morning again pressing the rocker switch... Nothing. Pressing the other way to flush into the macerator worked fine. I had a look at the switch inside but that was OK. Tried a few times with no effect. Gave up. Tried again this afternoon but nothing. Then put on the generator to charge up the batteries, which are only a month old, and the water pump worked again. The toilet is 12v. Before I had the new batteries the old ones went down below 11v most days and the toilet still worked. Any ideas as to why would be helpful, thanks.

They are in the process of closing lock 3 for a couple of days to repair the cill. We got through this morning. They still seem to be letting boats through from the Caldon festival though!

I use Audacity. This will record ANYTHING that is playing on the computer, YouTube or Spotify or vlc player or anything, as a flac file. I then convert them using a simple audio converter program to mp3 files that I load into iTunes and onto my iPod.

Having read this thread I am now going to get an electrician to fit them. I have a MasterVolt battery monitor and a solar panel and would like the peace of mind of knowing that any cock up will be his and not mine.

Thanks for all that. I will read the battery replacement tips thread before I make my next move.

Does this mean there are separate connections to the controller? I had a look at them today and could see the main red and black cables. Is the controller connected to these? So do I disconnect the panel using the connector under the panel. Do I have to cover the panel first as I think it says on that plug to not disconnect it when the panel is charging.

Where did you get them from off the Internet and by much cheaper do you mean than a chandlers?

My six year old AGM batteries are losing their voltage very quickly now. After charging them up using the engine they show a voltage of 13 volts. Once I start to use them the voltage drops rapidly. At 94% charge (according to the MasterVolt system) they are below 12 volts. I take this to mean they need replacing even though all the things on the boat lights, TV, fridge, inverter etc keep working. Except the central heating. I have a couple of questions. Is replacing them as simple as switching everything off including the isolation switch and then changing them over for a new set as you would in a car. Will the MasterVolt system inverter and solar panel all accept the new batteries or do I need to reset anything? I intend to replace like for like. We are cc'ing at the moment so wonder if anyone can recommend where to get the replacements. There are so many different sorts of batteries I am unsure where to start. Is there a make or makes that are high quality if not the most expensive (varta seem to be the most expensive?) The ones I have are called Marine but I cannot find them. Is buying them at a marina chandlers a good place or do you get ripped off that way. Thanks Jon

Thanks also Jennifer. We're just about to start the Leicester section of the GU and that was very useful.

Agree they are excellent chips, if you don't mind the queue. The Dunwich beach chip shop is also excellent but the nearly best is the one in Aldeburgh high Street. The best was the pub in our village until they moved back to Ireland, cooked in goose fat.

Got a Whale Gulper............ Sorted

Which valve? The base of the shower is clear. The pipe leaving the shower is clear and the pipe leaving the boat is clear. The pump worked today fine. Pumped out the water and you could see it exiting the boat really well. What's bugging me is on three occasions over the past couple of months it has not worked at all, like last week, then it does work, like today. Maybe I'll just get one of them.... ?

It's a Johnson pump. Viking power 16. Do you mean the tricuspid valve on the exit pipe? It was clear.

My shower pump stopped working. It vibrates but the shower was like a paddling pool. Thought the pipe might be blocked so checked that but no. So got the pump out and checked it was not blocked. Looked at the diaphragm which was not split. Put it all back and the pump worked. Great.... Job done. Then used the shower a few days later and same problem it vibrates but doesn't pump. It looks like the water is just moving up and down the plpe about an inch. Decided I need a new pump. Used it today and it bloody works! Twice. So can anyone suggest why it is taunting me like this.

I thought I had a leak in my 2LW water pump so got a refurb kit from Walshs for £80. When we took it off it turned out the leak was coming from the drive shaft archimedies screw. Cleaned it and put it all back and problem solved. As we hadn't used any of the kit I asked Walshs for a refund but they don't do them. So if anyone would like an unused gasket and bearing kit then I will accept sensible offers.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Visbella-Filling-Reinforcing-Adhesive-Porcelain/dp/B07FDPXHWW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1549570552&sr=8-6&keywords=Visbella This stuff looks interesting. Claims you can drill it and sand it. I have got some but haven't used it yet. Anyone know if it works.

We have dg portholes with no condensation, dg side hatches with no condensation but the dg houdini hatch had frozen drips all around it this morning. Our Squirrel seams OK when it starts to get hot, about 20°, I just close the round vent and it stays about right.

I'm still turning clockwise when I should be going anti clockwise. At least with a lever I can remember forward for forward and back for reverse.

The boat he describes has a National I think. Clearly from the above example you can use a wheel to change gear. I find using a wheel to change revs is complex enough for me.