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Stuart Lewis

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Scarisbrick
  • Occupation
    Upholsterer
  • Boat Name
    Lazy B
  • Boat Location
    Scarisbrick Marina

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  1. Yes I am not sure how to solve that particular issue, one for another day I think Vetus are a rip off, anything I have needed so far I have managed to source via Mitsubishi parts
  2. Yes Exactly like that one Right, I don't want to count my chickens too soonn not until I have been out and cruised for a bit, BUT I do think I have had a break through today. I checked the breather it is clear. Then I disconnected the fuel pump, both sides and blew back into the tank, not a lot of resistance felt, nice big gurgling heard, then tried to blow threw to filter, much more resistance. reconnected inlet side of pumped and checked for flow, it filled a large coffee jar in a few seconds and it was clear, no bubbles. reconnected outlet and then secured pump into a new lower position about 15cm lower than the bottom of the tank. So starting the engine, seemed quicker than usual, nipped open the CAV bleed screw and released the air lock and it ran sweet straight away. I let it run for a bit, checked bleed screw again, no bubbling just clear fuel, it always bubbled a bit in the past. So I then ran it for a 10 minutes or so at 2400 revs and then under load for a couple of minutes. Checked screw again, still no air released nor bubbling, jut clear fuel. It also seemed to have a lot more power at lower revs and didn't struggle on return to idle like it always did before. I cannot wait until Saturday when I can get out and see how it performs now and then I will report back, but for now everything is looking like it could be good news Thank you for all your help and invaluable advice so far
  3. The pump is on of the little square brass pumps, a 'universal' pump according to the sales page. Cost me about £15 quid.
  4. Okay, tonight I will try and blow out the intake and check the tank breather, I will also look into a different pump. What would a mechanical pump be putting out in terms of psi for ccomparison to 12v?, I know that 12v can be 4-6 psi (likee my current one) but some are higher 10-14 psi, would this be more suited. Oh and will check the CAV centre bolt.
  5. It is an old Vetus, circa 1987, Mitsubishi S4L base. The pump is a rectangular facet type, 4-6 psi, unfiltered. Only filter is a CAV mounted on engine above high pressure pump. I am fairly certain the tank breather is clear as fuel came out of it when filling up last time. Does the positioning of the pump have any bearing on things, it is currently just below bottom of tank, level with top of engine. The fuel pickup is located on top of the tank, it loops up and then down to pump. Can you remember where were those filters are located, as I say I have only found one, but the fuel system seems to have been altered a little from original.
  6. Yes tanks, one either side, the engine is connected to the one with the filler, but I have drained and filtered all the fuel (around 160 litres) and am certain the balance pipe is okay
  7. Tanks above engine. Originally the fuel line went down to a mech lift pump, but for whatever reason before I got it, this was taken out of the loop and an electric one used.
  8. Ahhh Okay, sorry, to clarify, PRV isn't connected to the bottom of the filter. I'll try and get a photo posted later. But I'll explain the sequence of our fuel line. Tank pickup - stopcock - electric pump - IN CAV filter - OUT CAV filter - high pressure pump - Injectors - leak-off rail - return feed - tank. Now, where the OUT pipe enters the high pressure pump, it is connected via a banjo closest to the pump, then working away, a PRV, then a T union connecting it up to the fuel return Hope that clarifies it a little better??
  9. Hi. I am having an on-going issue with my Vetus M414 engine losing power and being unable to rev above about 1500rpm. It will idle fine and run at tickover in gear for a couple of hours quite happily, but within 10-15 minutes of running at 4mph cruising speed, around 2400rpm it will start to coughs bit and then lose power. dropping to neutral it will then run very roughly for a few minutes before picking up again. It is behaving as if it has run out of fuel, but my tanks are full (I have checked).. I have found that bleeding the filter whilst still running the engine, both in gear and at idle, will restore the power, but obviosuly this isn't right or indeed safe especially as it always does it in locks and at swing bridges. I initially suspected an air leak into the fuel system, but having replaced a number of suspect pipes and copper washers it still does it. I have also wrapped every possible joint in grease and I am now sure there is no air ingress. So I have turned my thoughts towards either the electric fuel pump, which is only 2 months old, but isn't as quiet as I would have expected it to be, it makes quite a loud clicking noise, or I have also wondered if the pressure release valve between the bottom of the filter and the return line maybe at fault and not retaining the correct pressure within the system and therefore not allowing enough fuel up into the high pressure pump and instead returning much of the fuel straight back to the tank. Any thoughts would be most gratefully appreciated as this is really winding me up now and spoiling many weekend cruises. Generally the engine sounds as sweet as anything, no smoke to speak of and indeed it managed to tow a broken down vessel 12 miles back to our marina, all be it fairly slowly, so I know there is nothing mechanically major wrong. Thanks
  10. Right, my setup is as Iain says Our Johnson pump was in-line, between the bottom of the skin tank and the engine water pump. I had assumed it was required to help pull the water out of the skin tank. So (with a big smile on my face) I shall phone and cancel the order tommorow and fabricate a plate to cover the hole in the engine left by the removal of Johnson pump Thank you all for your info, I should have done this earlier - quite new to narrowboating and finding it a steep learning curve!! Stuart
  11. Hi I have had issues with my secondary water pump, a Johnson pump driven by the engine, pulling water from the skin tank. The seals were leaking water into the engine, and the bearings were completly shot aswell. I have had a an order placed for a new pump, but this is taking sooo long and it is very expensive - we rerally need to get out cruising ASAP!! So my question is: can I do without this pump? or can I use a 12v electric pump in its place. has anyone done this before? and can anyone shed any light on a suitable flow rate as I guess the Johnson one wold have varied its flow depending on the engine speed, but the electric one would be constant. My engine is a Vetus M4.14. Thank you Stuart
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