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simonebb

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Everything posted by simonebb

  1. simonebb
    I bought a 22mm brass pushfit fitting but its too big and as far as I am aware they are not available in 3/4"? because the pipe has to be accessed through a hole in the cladding and has spray foam insulation there is very little room even if i could find the right size copper or compression fitting, my plumber is a bit baffled and has left it to me to find a solution... Yes I am beginning to think this is probably the way to go, new hull fitting, fit for purpose thanks Alan
  2. simonebb
    Hi Alan do you know of any alternatives to jubilee clips, I will certaily go for double clipping but even that doesn't fill me with confidence
  3. simonebb
    The pipe is copper, the skin fitting is 10" above the waterline BUT the boat is currently moored on a tidal river and at high tide on a rough day the waves breach the pipe (both outlets currently have rubber bungs in them) I am not sure about the swan neck will have to double check height of sink outlet but presumably this would prevent water ingress - assuming hoses havent fallen off!
  4. simonebb
    Thanks Bizzard will do. presumably i could safely attach the hose with a jubilee clip?
  5. simonebb
    Hi All, I am trying to install a sink and have two existing skin fittings on my boat that could serve as waste water outlets, however the internal fitting appears to be just a 2" length of standard piece of pipe (no thread) approx size 19mm/ 3/4". Is this normal? Could i use a hose connector http://www.asap-supplies.com/fittings-valves-strainers/fittings/brass-straight-hose-tail-connector-418053 and flexible hose pipe to provide an outlet from the sink? if so is brass or plastic better. Or is there a better way to do this? Thanks in advance Simone
  6. simonebb
    Hi All, Am about to install a new lighting system and am looking at LEd lights, I know from here that most people rate Bedazzled but for a whole new system this is quite pricey. I have found some sold by Central Waterways Uk that are £9.50 a pop http://www.centralwaterways.uk/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=1038 they are apparently spike protected but do not have an internal fuse as beddazzled do. So 2 questions : has anybody used these? How important is the internal fuse? Many thanks Simone
  7. simonebb
    Thanks everyone! Some really interesting, helpful and creative suggestions ... I will let you know what we decide to do.
  8. simonebb
    I'm not a fan of grinders but have had to use mine a lot recently ! Might well get someone to cut them off and then finish them off myself with a grinding disc, alternatively if they are as lightly welded as the rest of the boat I might just be able to remove the weld and tap them out! On a related matter, the cabin is predominately 3 mm, consequently any remedial welding causes it to curtain, also welding a plate in the roof repair a hole has made the roof dip, has anyone else experienced this, if so any tips? Thank you!
  9. simonebb
    Int dia = 105 mmExt dia =115mm Not the answer I wanted and the one I was hoping to avoid but I suspect you are right and this will prove to be the only sensible course of action, good point about the inner tube, best get rid of the lot!
  10. simonebb
    Okay hope this works... https://www.flickr.com/photos/96201195@N07/ Hopefully you should now be able to see images of the vents!
  11. simonebb
    I'm not sure if mushroom vents will fit over because of the way the tube projects above the roof. I am trying to upload some photos for clarity but do not know how to attach them to the post - help!
  12. simonebb
  13. simonebb
    Will have a go at taking some pics tomorrow, it should make more sense then....
  14. simonebb
    I have 4 vents on my roof that consist of 115mm dia steel tubes that project through the roof, these are covered over by a curved rectangle of steel that is welded on at the corners. The problem is that is is impossible to maintain the roof section underneath and subsequently these areas are very corroded. I want to remove the covering steel, clean up the roof and fit something more suitable but I would rather not have to cut out the tubes. Any ideas? Simone
  15. simonebb
    Apparently it doesn't change the price, not surprising since hempadur is about a quarter of the price of interzone, I suspect it does mean less thickness of interzone although this has been denied. I was told that they had recently had problems with interzone and have started to using this method recently, I don't know why this was not discussed especially as they knew I would be present, my only consolation is that they do do a lot of the large sea going and fishing vessels locally. Yes, good idea, wish I'd thought of that earlier!
  16. simonebb
    Hi , I arranged for my boat to be hydro blasted and then coated with interzone 954. Today I went to check on progress just at the point when the guys were unloading the paint to discover they were planning to put hempadur on first and the interzone on top. I explained this was not what I had agreed with the boss and was expecting interzone only at 500 microns. I was told that they had experienced adhesion problems with interzone and now routinely used hempadur 2 pack on the ginger metal and then put the interzone on top. Does anyone have an informed view on the suitability of this? I'm totally out of my depth, It's not a cheap job and I need it to last. Thanks Simone
  17. simonebb
    Thanks, its all about preserving my sanity!!!
  18. simonebb
    Hi Pete, Thanks for thIs, i had read the thread on oxides which was why i used Bonda Prima, however there does seem to be conflicting advice as to whether it can just be left and because of this I called the manufacturer, they do suggest a topcoat is applied over the Bonda, it doesn't seem to matter what the topcoat is as long as it is sealed in. I agree that its probably a bit 'belt & braces' but having spent weeks cleaning back the metal work due to extensive rust caused primarily (but not exclusively, water was coming in anywhere it could!!!) by leaking windows, I never want to do it again! Oh dear i seem to be ranting The boat is stripped right back to the hull and as I am now starting from scratch, I'm really keen to get it right and protect from further damage, should water get in again or just from plain old condensation, its all a bit of a learning curve and I do find myself agonising over every decision, every step of the way!! Ranting again I'll stop now...
  19. simonebb
    beyond me I'm afraid! Just when I googled it Owatrol seemed to get good reviews - not cheap though ... I am sure there are many people on here who can answer the question though!
  20. simonebb
    What about Owatrol Oil - would this be a suitable alternative?
  21. simonebb
    Hi Andy WOW Looks fantastic! Any reason you chose to use gloss over bitumen?
  22. simonebb
    I am restoring my boat and have cleaned back the internal cabin steel and given it 2 coats of Bonda Prima all over, I now want to relay the ballast, is it okay to put a coat of Bitumen straight on top of the Bonda Prima before relaying the slabs?
  23. simonebb
    I was wondering how you get the superquilt to adhere to the steel, I know with kigspan/celotex you use adhesive, is it the same with superquilt as all the examples i have seen it has been nailed in place? I have been told ithat superquilt has the same thermal values as the others. Simone Thanks again N, the clarification helps as I am a total novice!!! Simone
  24. simonebb
    Thanks N, Nice to know I can re-use the ballast and thanks for all the tips re having an inspection hatch etc, dont think I can stretch to sprayfoam and was planning to use kingspan or similar product, if I understand correctly you are saying that all the joints of the kingspan should be filled and taped over with the aluminium tape? Someone has also mentioned a newish product called superquilt, is this something you have come across? Simone
  25. simonebb
    I have recently acquired a 40ft, cruiser stern, Norseman, Hancock and Lane. It has become a major project, (never the intention!) having discovered a large amount of water under the cabin floor. The windows, hatches and around the chimney flue were all leaking significantly. the ballast, 2 ft square concrete slabs, were wet and orange with rust. Having identified the leaks I am now in the process of beginning to put her back together, I am going to clean back the metal on the inside and re prime with Bonda rust primer. So a few questions: Can i re-use the existing ballast, I was going to lay the ballast on roofing felt and cable housing to raise it a little but I have read that roofing felt can trap moisture, would i be better painting a bitumous paint on the primer instead? This is just the beginning there will be many more questions!!! Thanks Simone
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