imranino

Found it! Thanks, I'd have never been able to locate it otherwise. It was surprisingly intact. BUT: Damp? I found it and it was soaked! Liquid was dripping out of it! One of the connectors completely burned out Do you know why this happens? Any way to avoid it in future? So is the next step to replace this multi-connector?

Oh, I just checked the headlight, horn and bilge pump. They're all working. Nothing when I try to start the engine though. So I doubt the issue is with the solenoid itself, it seems like there's no power getting to the engine at all.

Oh, I just checked the headlight, horn and bilge pump. They're all working. Nothing when I try to start the engine though. So I doubt the issue is with the solenoid itself, it seems like there's no power getting to the engine at all.

Thanks for such rapid response! So right now there's no power at all in the engine or the control panel. So turning the key does absolutely nothing, headlights etc not working. Everything running off the leisure batteries working fine. The starter is reading 13.2 And the mechanical engine stop is spring loaded so it went right back. It's a Beta Marine

Hi Gang, I just tied up after a day of cruising, went to turn off the engine but nothing happened when I hit the 'Engine Stop' button. I checked the button first, shorted it but nothing happened. Tried tinkering with the key position (Aux-Off-Ign-Start) and tried the headlights, horn and bilge pump which were all responding. I located the engine stop switch on the engine and pulled it, the engine stopped as normal. Now, however, the engine won't start and none of the above mentioned electrics are working. Before I go barking up the wrong tree and getting my hands dirty, I wonder what the hive mind might make of this? Thanks!

Lots of things you've considered, some that I've overlooked! One of the advantages I saw is that as I'll be tiling the kitchen floor, it'll be easier to clean mud that people might be brining in with their shoes. Another consideration is that I have a box on the bow deck I use to keep food in during the colder months rather than using a fridge, and it's much easier to reach if I'm at the front. Yes I was slightly worried about the heat issue.

Because of the boats I could afford, none had kitchens I wanted to keep. The extant kitchen is perfectly functional and I've cooked some fine meals, it's just a bit of an eyesore. Yes I thought that might be an advantage I wasn't thinking of partitioning it, I like my kitchen and living space open-plan. Very good consideration, thanks! I'll be very careful with my measurements and make sure everything is planned. My oven is rather small, so hopefully it won't be such an issue. Looks great, good job! It'll be the opposite for me as it'll be right next to the gas cylinders and water tank. It'll be a shame to have to put in another hole and skin fitting, but worth it IMO. Besides, the current waste pipe from the kitchen sink is scarily close to the water line. Thanks for these

All very easy an accessible, windows nicely placed

Hi all, I've recently bought a boat. The kitchen wants rebuilding and moving forward. I was going to just move it 7 foot forwards to fit an extra permanent berth (the original layout of the boat). But then I thought it might be an idea to have it right at the front. Currently my kitchen is a long L shape but it this configuration I could have it on either side. Are there any disadvantages that I've not thought of? It's not a configuration I've seen much - I've seen the opposite on cruiser sterns where one walks straight into the kitchen via the aft door. I'd be very grateful for your thoughts Here's a photo of what it might look like. Of course this is actually the back of a cruiser.

I think that was my boat before I got her!

The tank has 2 outlets (besides the toilet bowl) one for pumping out the other is a breather. Thanks Robbo - so I guess the best I thing I can do is to add a second breather on the opposite end to the current one. If that makes no different, I'll add a fan onto each breather - each blowing in a different direction so there's proper air circulation. On the subject of fans, does anyone here have one? If so what have you used? I made mine up out of a 40mm computer fan (closest thing to a 38mm hose), and used a combination of reducers and silicone to make an inline fan. Is there anything sturdier around?

38mm I can live with smell but this is intolerable - would a second breather make a difference in your opinion? Will it give the air somewhere else to escape from?

B0atman and Kendal - there's no issue with the seals, they hold water, the smell is only there when actually / just after flushing. There's no liquid in the breather - the outlet is at the top of the tank. But how come the fan is useless on only one breather? Should I definitely add a second? And is a breather still doing its job if it dips a little bit?

Hello! I'm really at my wit's end here! I've been through all the threads on the topic - in fact when I originally fitted the pump-out tank last summer I used a lot of ideas found here. Yet my dump-through tank persists in stinking after flushing. And sadly flush-and-run is no option as the smell doesn't stay contained within the bathroom! By the end of the year we'll have spent more in incense than the whole toilet setup! Here's the system: Dump through toilet Plastic tank withpump out outlet on the toilet side breather outlet on the opposite end Odourlelss/BioMagic/Yeast smell control The breather outlet has a sanitation pipe running along to the toilet end and out a skin fitting near the pump-out plug (?) on the gunwale. I tried fitting an inline computer fan to the breather, but it either broke, and when it was working it seemed to do very little. My options are, as I can see, the following find a more sturdy and more powerful fan fitted to the breather fit a second breather on the same end as the toilet the breather hose goes from a 90º hosetail, then the pipe dips a bit before rising to the skin fitting- could this be making a significant difference? Maybe the gasses would escape better if the pipe were constantly rising? all of the above As I see it, if the ventilation were more effective, the BioMagic will do a much better job, and if a fan is working well, it'll even create a small vacuum so when the flush is used very little or no gasses will come into the boat. Thoughts? Thanks!

No worries! I'd rather be called an idiot and learn than win a Darwin award!

Of course! Thanks for flagging it, I like to think I'd have realised myself...

One other thing: If I fit a 16a socket (see link) to the outer cabin, will it have to have the cable coming out the top and then going into the cabin? Anyone who spent 6 weeks painting their boat will surely understand I wouldn't want to put more holes than necessary! I had a look at a socket in a shop today and it looked like the wire could go through the back rather than out the top. Anyone done this? http://m.screwfix.com/p/mk-commando-interlocked-angled-socket-2p-e-16a-200-250v-ip44/40962;jsessionid=Dx4NX37H7kbPFGvQGQKxn5d5?filtered=true

Thanks for all the replies- basically confirmed what I suspected thanks for all the additional tips.

Hello! When we got our boat 18 months ago, it had a very simple 12v system, and all I've done so far is modernise it slightly - a few more cigar lighter sockets, all LED lights etc. But we still don't have any kind of 240 power setup. We've got by so far with just 12v and that really fits most of our needs - charging phones, laptops and so forth. But the odd luxury here and there (blender, juicer, hoover) would not go amiss. We don't have any immediate plans to get an inverter (£ flow) but probably will someday. So in the immediate future the only times we'll be using 240 power is when we have landline hookup (very rare as we are CCers) or when we run the gennie. I only really envisage fitting one double socket in the kitchen area, but might also put one by the bed and in the living area (thinking about future users if we ever decide to sell). With all the above, what do I need to do in order to have this? I've had a look through the BSS website but couldn't quite understand what it all meant! Can I simply put a hookup socket on the outer cabin, run it to a socket in the engine room into which I'd plug in the battery charger, and a line running into the main cabin to a socket? Does there need to be a fusebox of some sort? Excuse my ignorance, as you can tell from above please assume no prior knowledge! Many thanks!

Thanks for the heads up Ricco - I've drawn up all my plans and the only reason I've not made my top box yet is that I'm waiting for a spare part for my jig saw. Any chance you could send the exact measurements my way? Would love to have everything lined up and ready

Gosh, how many have you had??

Yes that looks good, I was thinking something like this too:

Absolutely Paul, thanks!

Wow, no shortage of knowledge and opinions here! Thanks a lot, yes it did seem a bit funny plus I hadn't calculated the amps. So I think it's something more like this for us: http://www.bimblesolar.com/offgrid/12v/12v-125w-10amppt?sort=p.price&order=ASC But probably with 2x 125W panels rather than just the 1. The seller also sells these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-DC-35A-step-down-controller-converter-high-voltage-319V-to-12V-/121311671804?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item1c3ebd35fc And these kits: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-x-100W-300W-Solar-Battery-Charging-Kit-12V-camper-Flexible-roll-up-solar-kit-/121315230683?pt=UK_Gadgets&hash=item1c3ef383db