Paul1977

Heat exchanger reduced to £80 posted

Hi, bowman bl250 with core and end caps. Kept as a spare but now sold the boat so not needed. £100 posted Thanks Paul

Cheers all, once again the fountain of youth runs dry next to the fountain of knowledge (that's a compliment ..lol) I will whip the alternator off and take it to a local guy who works on starters and alternators. I'd rather get it overhauled than try and bodge a new one in its place. Paul

Hi all. Well popped down to the boat today to swap the alternator over with a spare I had and would you believe it when I started the engine the non charge light came on(this was previously off), gave it 20 seconds for the engine to warm then gave the throttle a blip and hey presto, the charge light goes out the rev counter kicks in and the voltage gauge shows 14.5 volts. I stopped the engine and tried the same process. once gain the charge light went off and the volts upto 14.5. I'm not sure why this happens but if anybody can add some light to it I'd be most greatful. Paul

Hi, I've just been down to the boat started the engine and noticed the charge light was on. Gave the engine a blip of throttle (this usually kicks the rev counter into action and charge light off) but all that happened was the charge light went out and the voltage stated the same (12v). I checked the cables and all were tight, the put multimeter across the alternator output cable and eRthed it to the engine block but still no voltage output. Is there anything that could blow on the actual alternator ?? By the way it's a bmc 2.2 cheers Paul

Selling a few spares in the for sale section, just incase you don't check. Thanks paul

Hi, the spin on oil converter came from asap. It replaced the older spin on type. Later today I'm going to remove the oil cooler from the loop and connect just the oil filter via the hoses. If this improves the pressure ille then I will readd the cooler, but if it doesn't I will try attaching the spin on filter housing to the block. Looks like it's going to be a very oily day of trial and elimination Sorry I ment older canister type

Thanks, that clears up a lot about the bypass on a oil filter. I was speaking to an older more experienced boat owner and he suggested it needed a 30lb. I've been looking on the web at other sea boats with bmc and they seem to go without a cooler and the extra hose work.

Hi, well my boat is indeed a seaboat that cruises about 2200 revs so maybe i should hang onto the cooler. I've just checked and the oil in it at the moments 15/40 but ive got a tin of comma 20/50w ready to go in as soon as i find a suitable oil filter. The filter thats filtted (comline EOF041) at the moment has a bypass valve of 1 bar (15lb's i think) but ive been told ille need one of at least 30lb. The joy of of boats !!

Hi, thanks for the quick replys. I follow Tony's theory of how the oil filler and filter take off is leeching the missing oil pressure, also it's using a capillary guage so I know it's a true reading. As for a piece if gasket blocking might be possible but I used pre made and cleaned both mating faces before applying hylomar, so it should be sitting fine. I'm thinking that it might worth taking the oil cooler and other hoses off and just mating the new screw on filter attachment to the block. Is there really much use for a cooler on these engines ??

Yes, I'm baffled. I need to add that I also added my old oil cooler from the old engine. This is attached via a machined plate that is bolted onto were the old oil filter was then a set of hoses run to the oil cooler and oil filter housing. Could this reduce the oil pressure as its goto travel further ?? Also would it be worth talking the hoses off and checking them for blockeges ??

Hi, I've just added a spin on oil filter conversion to my bmc 2.2 but cannot find out what filter would be best suited. I ask as after swapping over from the old cartridge type to a fully plumbed in spin on type the oil pressure has dropped from 40lbs down to 20lbs and I'm worried it's due to the wrong type of filter being used. Paul

Well, I stripped the gearbox back to cast. Sanded, etched primed, then gave it 3 top coats of vht. All looking lovely I fitted it back to the bell housing, added fresh oil only to start it which then resulted with all the oil being blown out the front input oil seal.. One word, gutted !! I checked the old seal and it had gone oval so all the old accumulated crud must have been keeping the oil in. Still lesson learned, always check/ replace your seals when you can get a chance Paul

Wow.. That is the most prestige engine room ive ever seen, you sure thats in a boat not a museum !!

Excellent , I've got an old milk crate which to stand in on and it should be able to fit the spline into one of the holes

Hi, I'm currently in the process of swapping over my boat engine and gearbox. But whilst it's out and on the bench I'd like to strip the old gearbox paint and respray it. The thing is it's a borg waner 2:1 hydrolic box and the best way to strip off all the old paint and crud would be to stand it up its drive spline but I'm worried standing it upright will damage the internal seams. Any advice would be greatly appreciated . Paul

Hi, I know its an old post but I've just swapped out my old bmc 2.2 so I ve got a load of parts going is your still after any. Jabsco Water pump (spline drive type),full bowman heat exchanger system, DPA Cav Injector pump & pipes, 4 Injectors, cylinder head and just about anything else you want from it. Be quick though as there going up on flea bay Cheers Pau;l

Cheers all ille try the pneumatic fitters tomorrow

Bought it of ebay new but old stock so didn't come with any documentation

Lets try again

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Doh.. I carnt load up the images

Hi, I've just bought a replacement oil pressure gauge but the thread is different to my existing capillary type. The original is a smiths (on the right) and I think it's a 1/8 npt but I'm stumped on the new one. If I can find the size I can order up a bush to mate it up. Any help would be appreciated Paul

Thanks all for your help and advice. But after much deliberation I'm going to leave the flush and just drop the oil and filters. Like I said I've got a new engine ready to be dropped in September time so I might as well let sleeping dogs lie and not end up opening a can of worms. At the moment she starts on the button and only uses a bit if oil when worked hard, also if the oil pressure does fall through the floor and the engine locks up ive got an aux to get me home. Thanks again Paul

Well, I popped into the garage yesterday and found the right size spanner (28MM) for the Relief valve nut (I also had to cut in down in size to fit it under the oil filter). Then with new cut down spanner in hand I headed off to the boat, opened the engine box, straddled the engine and bingo popped open the PRV nut. I checked the spring length against the manual (3in) and all fine. The spring was looking very clean good (no swarf/sludge) and then eventually got the bullet shaped piece out. This was also looking good, no baked on oil or sludge/swarf. So reinstalled it all and whipped off the rocker box. This was looking rather messy with a bit of sludge build (on the block) up but the lifters/rockers were suprisingly clean. Anyway reassembled and started the engine, engine fired up and the oil pressure was the same as before . Anyway it looks like ille this wkend ille be flushing, dropping and replacing the oil and filters, which is a right pain in the arris (it involves whipping the starter motor out, just so that i can just about get my hand under the engine to the drain plug ). Another thing, as its such a pain to get anything under the eingine to catch the oil im going to let i fill the builge then pump out later. Would it be worth leaving the plug out overnight to drain all the old oil out or is there a good set time (10Mins, 1/2 hour etc ??) Any other suggestions would be greatly appriciated. thanks Paul