Jrtm
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Posts posted by Jrtm
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19 minutes ago, RLWP said:
It's the number of the piston, not the piston and ring assembly
It doesn't have an oversize mark on it so it is probably standard
The correct way to find out is to measure the bore!
Do check that the ring groove on the top ring of the piston is OK.
Richard
Hope pic helps, yer I thought stock but wasn't 100% ive inspected the piston (be it still on the engine) and there is only a very slight wear on the side (as an ex engine builder for alfa) the wear dosnt concern and a quick wipe with emery cloth and the coke is coming strait off, all rings are free and coke free, only thing missing was the bottom oil ring but has a grove for it.
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I've started to strip and clean the ha2 now I know it ran so I can clean it up and then once national is fully running will rebuild it.
I've removed and cleaned all the top end im in the middle of cleaning piston, I do have a set of rings about (no idea why) but the number on the pistons don't match to anything. There genuine lister pistons and liners and are in very good condition so will prob hone and reuse,
The numbers off the piston are part number 531-18250/7 (the 8 could be a 9 as has a bit of dirt on it but it looks like an 8 when I look at the patern number has a 9 in)
Any idea what this relates to e.g. stock or over sized?
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38 minutes ago, nbfiresprite said:
New ones cost between £79 and £150 depending which model and where they are made.
Not really found any new ones, except my very cheap poor quality one but that still wasn't new.
Mine are old duplex ones but not sure how old,
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I'm in the middle of going threw my stock of boat bits ive built up over the years and after a good going threw and realising I have bould a lot of rare but not needed parts im going to start getting rid of some of it, some im keeping but have lent to people, but I have 4 back cabin paraffin lamps.
1 is pretty rubbish It didn't cost much as it still had price on but I think was an attempt by someone to make one and apart from the globe and chimney has been binned it wasn't worth anyones time.
2 I have are the same i bought them years ago from someone who was rebuilding a motor and butty and putting conversions on and wasn't keeping much and 1 of these is going into my motor Towy. I was going to keep it to put in a butty if I bought one but thats not happening for a while now so will sell
And the last one is one im going to sell.
Im in the middle of cleaning them up as covered in dust and not been cleaned in years.
there complete except for the smoke bells (these were glass ones not brass for the matching pair and im keeping them) and other one i dont think I had one for it. Anyways they hold paraffin and work have solid brass sconce on them and locate into the sconce, have glass globe and chimney.
Any idea what there roughly worth? I'll post a pic tomorrow, once got an idea of price I'll list on here in the for sale before I ebay them.
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Just now, noddyboater said:
£1800 is exactly a grand too much!
Given that marine jp3 with box running sold for 1.9k I would say it was well over
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Well all electronics removed bodged fuel bottle and line connected bleed and pop fired straight up.
Only run for a min but It def had a variable throttle, and will tickover nicely with my finger between the lever and the stop bolt.
Its abit smoky but im not sure if its just build up of crud or if the rings leak as ive noticed a fair bit of oil in the exhaust but that's OK as will be rebuilt.
I'm guessing the max it will run is 1500rpm rather than 1800rpm as the side has a pin hole and the lever won't go past the pin lining up with the hole. (This is fine as if so not bothered about changing unless easy to do but it also allows me that little extra leway of not putting the engine at full stress)
The nice tick over is just under 1/2 the full movement of the lever so guessing tickover is around 500-600rpm??
Sorry I've no idea on ha engines as to what does what, but I know there good reliable easy running engines.
Fr2, national, bolinders, jp2 I can get my head around,
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34 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
That is because the manufacturer thinks that in some applications the top/side fillers may not be easily accessible so they provide both. Think about a generator in an acoustic enclosure. It will probably have an access panel on tech side for changing the oil and fuel filters but the top is likely to be too close to the rocker cover for top filling where a son some boats the side filler might be a pig to get to.
True thanks tony
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1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:
If by that you mean into the oil fillers on the rocker covers you need another filler why? its the standard way on the vast majority of engines and on a Lister its fine as long as you don't pour so fast t fills the rocker cover up and in some way manages to enter the breather pipes that are in there. just pour slowly. The oil just runs down through the pushrod housing and through holes in the crankcase into the sump.
Thanks, I wasn't 100% sure as alot of older engine you have to fill the sump direct and on some ha ive seen it had fillers on the head and on the crank case.
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On 13/10/2020 at 20:04, Steve56 said:
If it has been built as a generator engine it will probably be fixed speed. If this is the case it will need the governor weights and a couple of other parts changing to make it variable speed. Should be quite a simple job if you can get hold of the correct parts.
Right ive looked and its got a variable electric solenoid that then has a pin on the end of the governor, the pin pops out onto a switch this switch makes the solenoid drop the rpm when it pops back in the solenoid speeds the engine up, you can also lock it in full 1500rpm im guessing for starting but as soon as you touch it or move the speed its on a spring load and it automatically runs back on the solenoid, ive now removed all the electrics and will run again, im guessing by the way I saw it work its got fully variable speed but is set to hold at the given rpm for the engine load on the power unit. It can also self start and self stop (although this dosnt work due to the alternator unit being dead) but will manually run.
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It will run but unfortunately she don't have a lift pump or the slot in the crankcase door for one. So got to bodge a tank or something above the fuel filter to try and get fuel into the injectors, I have a big day tank on the boat if it ever got put in so the purpose its being build for means I won't need one just be easyer for setting up and running at home.
I've also going to have to get a diffrent crankcase door as there dosnt seam to be a way to fill the engine with oil, unless you just poor the oil strait in threw the heads?
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Its got an electronic speed controller on the side unless this is to turn the engine off
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So an update to my engine, I have now found out what it was used for and why was replaced,
The engine is fine its the dynamo / alternator thing that failed.
It was installed into a railway carriage to give 240v to buffet cars and lighting on coaches when pulled by a loco that couldn't provide power, it was then bought (coach) by a small railway society and used until a few years ago when one day the alternator side of it (240v supply) failed, it was then removed and a replacement unit put in. This was then kept as a spare engine, but they decided to sell on and the funds go towards a diesel loco restoration.
This will explain why it has all the ducting on in and extra air feeds to all electricals as it was in the back of a guards carriage.
Its got the perfect engine for me as has a bit of history to the engine.
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3 hours ago, Steve56 said:
If it was a start-o-matic I don't think it would have had electronic governing or any of the air ducting fitted. More likely a marine gen set.
I thought was a marine or ship power generator set due to all the ducts and air cooling for a confined space
2 hours ago, OptedOut said:Thanks for wire diagram though!
But will be loosing it all to convert to marine and bolt a 2g box to it as ive now found there the same as all h series and frs and will hopefully find a marine timing cover or at least one to copy or make a plate to fit to the stock one
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Pos it has a heat cooling outlet shield on and all electrical are cooled too with vents on, once its stopped raining next week I'll get it out and get more details off it ive not had it long.
Its also got an electrical decomposition part on the levers too, so has auto start and stop from electrics
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10 minutes ago, James Owen said:
That'll be a 1962 unit then.
Yes but it then dosnt quote it its an industrial or marine engine
Or was it only the marine units that got a marking for use?
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8 minutes ago, BWM said:
Is the national you were working on beyond help?
No national is 3/4 back together
I've been quite lucky with it that I have been at bclm but if had been anywhere else I would have been stuffed. I have been looking for a spare engine for ages really wanted a jp1 k1 ect but trying to get them at sensible money, I did find a jp1 but they wanted 1k and by time I rebuilt it I was on for 2.5k, so if the national does go wrong I've got an engine I can throw in as a temp with very little work to get it in and running.
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55 minutes ago, Liam said:
Are you sure on the year? Seems a bit early for a HA2.
Mine says 3161ha2i2
Which would put it 1952?
Unless the i is ment to be a 1 but then it dosnt state if its industrial or marine
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1 hour ago, billh said:
Was it used in a genset? For 50HZ (AC)output a 6(?)pole generator would need to run at an accurately controlled 1500rpm, hence the electric throttle/governor control
and the HP de-rating from normal max RPM combined with 10% de-rating for continuous full electrical load duty.
If you mean mine it was part of a gen set well still is but i think I was or has been installed either in a boat / ship or a confined space as mine has the cooling scoop on the side for the hot air to be vented and also has a shield around the flywheel with a space between the engine and gen for air but also all the electrics are air cooled too and all have air outlet scoops of some sort. Its all a bit odd as everything is electronically controlled even the decomposition is
All easy read info is 10kva
Cycles 50
Single phase
240v
Slipring brushes 4
Do bushes 4
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4 minutes ago, roland elsdon said:
We had an hb 3 with the same set up, prm box on the ‘wrong end’ of the engine. It had a cage fabricated between the flywheel and the gearbox. It cooled fine.
Meant we could run a big pulley off the other end with space around it..
Thanks, looks like best option will be to run it off the flywheel end, good news for me as means I can use my stock national box
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How did you get on with air flow threw the flywheel? Looks a big but nice setup.
My other option is to put a shaft threw to the box with a cover over it
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I've got a ha2 industrial engine 1952 year, its missing (compared to full marine) a few bits but its an odd engine as its got alot of marine parts on it compared to other industrial engines,
It already has variable speed control be it electronically controlled, so with all electronics removed a fabricated speed lever can easily replace this.
Its missing a hand starter handle (marine hand starter) should be easy to fit one
Now the only thing it does say is 19hp at 1500 not 22 at 1800 is this just down to the electronic controller (replace with lever to be same) or do these have diffrent governors?
I can see diffrent is the end plate as marine seam to have a extra bit casting and the bolt holes for bolting a gearbox, this isn't a massive problem as its either a case of replace the end case or make a plate to bolt onto it.
Lastly are the ha gearboxes the same as fr2?
If diffrent im guessing if a custom end plate is made you could mate one to it?
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1 hour ago, zenataomm said:
I may have come into this thread haphazardly, I haven't seen Ascot up for sale.
Has she still got the AS2?
When did you have her?
Isn't ascot the fuel boat that looks rather sorry for itself?
Back cabin paraffin lamp
in Boat Equipment
Posted
I'll up load photos later today once Home from work as I only finished giving them a quick clean, and the glass is all stoored in a hard box in loft to stop brakeage