Jrtm
-
Posts
2,560 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Store
Posts posted by Jrtm
-
-
3 hours ago, OptedOut said:
I would suspect the cam which gives the longest valve opening time will operate the inlet valves.
Yes you would think so wouldn't you, as an engine builder this was my thought, and from what I can tell is how rm built there's as I know I have an rn exhaust side shaft.
However this would not seam to be on a national, I have 2 set both with inlet and exhaust stamped with it the other way round and my pics above are inlet on the left.
The lift seams to be around the same but the lobes are diffrent, hence I want to see what others are.
-
Yes! As long as you know which cam was on which side as that's the important bit,
-
How much, which la la land are they in
-
I need some help only applies to national engine as believe rn is diffrent.
I have 4 sets of cam shafts with there lobes, 1 or 1/2 set is def rn camshaft and the rn is diffrent.
Now anyone who has a national can you check what cam lobe they have on which side of there engine?
It's a 5 min job if you take the inlet side crank case cover off and shine a torch in there are 2 lobes on the camshaft its either quite pointy or more rounded can you photo the lobe and post it up please.
Reason I ask is I have 2 shafts luckly stamped but the setup seams to go against normal engine building and rn seam to be the other way round. Please see my pics and you'll see the diffrence
-
It having other parts thrown in wouldn't surprise me at all, but some of the parts to remake like the flywheel, cam shafts, cams (threw many spares only found these fitted with part numbers) and quite a few cast parts would surprise me more if they went made in the original factory
-
As above anyone got a national parts list manual? I have one but the numbers don't add up to any parts I've got stamped on the engine, after some stripping down and some work I believe my old engine was build wrong. Luckily there are some part numbers which if can be checked then I can confirm if it was built wrong or if normal logic engine building was not followed on these engines.
My new engine will be virtually ready to put together by end of week but I have 3 items stopping me from doing so 1 of these I have part numbers on.
I've got other items too that are stamped but my list starts at 1-1000+ but these parts are 4k and 5k numbers
-
I will take pics today / tomorrow as I clean bits up but it's very simple system as my previous image shows. It's got a simple chain down to a gear with 2 cut notches in the back, behind that sits a plate with 2 sprung loaded arms around inch long, as the handle is turned the to sprung loaded arms lock into the gear. Once the engine is turning these sprung arms just run round the gear and the speed forced these arms to not engage, as the speed slows or gets too slow the speed is no longer fast enough to hold the arms out and it starts to bounce off the handle gear giving a click noise.
It's a very easy and good way of setting your idle speed as too slow it clicks so you just adjust till it just stops clicking. I have mine set so it just stops clicking in gear this way you avoid any unnecessary wear.
Modern rn engines tend to have very slow and low idle but this is due to alot not having hand start. I have seen some that run so slow that any slower they would stop.
-
2 hours ago, Man 'o Kent said:
Yup, as it happens I have the means at the end of the garden, I was also one of the last of the "proper" Toolmakers, (5 year indentured apprenticeship + 2 years as an "improver"). Of course I didn't know it at the time but the transistor had already been invented and the death knell had already been rung for traditional toolmaking.
Don't know my brother it law now builds parts for machines that now build stuff, so tool making still happens it's just in a diffrent way now
-
Can be build fairly easy if needs be
-
Hope this might help a bit ill still photo mine when I remove, pic is rn
-
Photos now added
To see video of engine running please go on YouTube and search billybobbooth you will find a video of this engine running
-
Pic and video will be added tomorrow.
-
On 12/03/2021 at 10:20, Bee said:
I've only seen the cut off stern of a very old bantock with the wooden plank and bottoms and that was many years ago, doubt there's any left at all now.
Isn't the boat at the port store still got the plank and bottom? Or is this now steel? (Not the boat I saw it was on the themes years ago)
-
Out the water? Whys that? Don't need to be out the water to take the box off, my entire engine and box will be coming out threw the engine room doors
-
The only way to get to the hand start is to get remove the gearbox and the timing chain cover, if you give me till 3rd April I'll have mine stripped down and can photo it all for you
-
I've got a new national tower block it's clearly an old new block, I don't believe it's ex mod (most mod stuff for these I've seen are coated red) this has no scratch marks where parts would have been bolted on, there is no even slight water residue, its also coated in extremely old protective grease that has gone hard over all the liner seal edges, every bolt and stud with nuts, all over the cam ways ext
There are no stamp marks at the timing mark it just has 3 number and what looks like a q.c or Lloyd stamp on the top of the tower between 2 water ways.
Numbers are 358
Anyone got any ideas are these a national block tower number e.g. number 358? Or are they an mod number? I know of a few block around that have sim but different stamps. As said it's not got a g.u. engine stamp
-
25 minutes ago, Bee said:
Original knees eh? So are mine and if I were to be sold that would knock a few thousand off. Presumably they mean they have that kink for the bottom plank. Nice boat though.
I like the ones that had the wooden plank and bottoms on, I've only seen 1 with the wooden plank still on
-
On 23/02/2021 at 10:01, Tim Lewis said:
Ara and Archimedes have been put up for sale via a Facebook post
Did these sell?
-
After seeing this and doing a search on it, comes up with a few Dover stoves and few odd others that have white enamel.
Shame the video isn't clearer but the things that you often wanna look at are always the bit just out of focus or off camera
-
Looks good where are you based?. Like to come look but yes looks good
-
3 hours ago, noddyboater said:
What about taking up the challenge of restoring the little Bandera No1 ?
It will definitely fit, ok it needs blasting and re-enamelling but could go from grey to white.
The top plate is knackered but Oliver at Osborne restorations has a full set of patterns and can have a top cast for less than 200 quid. New nipper smoke boxes are on Ebay for £65, he does the top to suit these.
It wouldn't be a cheap job but it would still come in at less than a new Epping.
Potentially sold how much?
-
10 minutes ago, Mike Tee said:
Ah, sorry, got the idea you were looking for a white one to buy!
Not seen the Harworth one's in the flesh, but they look like a worthwhile back cabin replacement worth considering bearing in mind the shortage of anything else.
I am if I find one at sensible price that will fit,
-
9 minutes ago, Mike Tee said:
Not white, but described as 'almond' which is close'ish
https://www.harworthheating.co.uk/product/bccs-4a/
(personally I'd rather have the diesel one, and in black!)
It's just what I could see from videos as to what was fitted in 65
-
Also when you look at this engine it seams to have 2 pumps fitted, 1 clearly goes to the block I can't see other side.
https://www.ephotozine.com/photo/russell-newbery-diesel-engine-47771684
National engine number
in National/Russell Newbery
Posted
I also have some bits from 71147