Boredrider
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Posts posted by Boredrider
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For comparison purposes, here is a filter taken from my 2LW today. The engine has done 3000 hrs since a complete rebuild. The filter has done 200 hours. The filter element is dry to the touch, and smells faintly of engine oil. I cannot see any visible smoke or fumes coming from the breather filter when the engine is running.
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If there is a lot of exhaust getting past the rings, then you are looking for carbon. If if there is a lot of crankcase pressure being developed, there will be will be oil as well.
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1 hour ago, mark99 said:
Poss worn rings?
I think this is the best guess so far. When you change the breather filter, cut the old one open and see if there are any more clues.
Next move would be a compression test, followed by another test with some oil in the cylinders.
Conventionally, this end is described as the front of the engine, rather than the back.
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Since your main usage seems to be in the day, have you considered solar panels?
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4 hours ago, GRLMK38 said:
Looking forward to it ....
Us too......
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A photo of the affected area would help. I don't think I would use a "sealant" as that implies a lot of flexibility, good for sealing, but not for painting over. Can you raise the panel? If so maybe sort out the rust and seal between the cabin top and the panel, then primer, filler (P38 or similar) and paint.
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As previously mentioned, the Gardner Engine Forum is a good source of info, as is the Vintage engine section of this forum. All the info you need on servicing is contained in a book called "Operating and Maintenance Instructions for Gardner Diesel Vertical and Horizontal Diesel Engines - Types LW, HLW, LW20, HLW20" if you don't have one, then maybe Ebay could help.
I have owned a 2LW for 5 years, and have done the tappets maybe three times, very easy indeed. Regular (200 hour) Oil and filter changes using Morris SAE 30 are important, IMHO. I have changed the injectors (sprayers in Gardnerspeak) once (reconditioned set from Walshes). Never felt the need to fiddle with the timing, and if I did I would probably get a professional in.
There will be a massive amount of knowledge floating around at the Gardner Engine Rally, on the site of the Etruria Industrial Museum, Stoke on Trent, on 15th/16th September 2018. I suggest you might benefit more from attending this than a course on modern diesels. If you get there, I will happily bore you with what little servicing info i have picked up!
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If you can point an IR thermometer at the return into the heater then that may tell you what is going on. Once the return gets up around 70C the heater will either cut out or drop to low output. Flushing a 20 year old system must be a good idea!
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Others on here will say that you shouldn't use thermostatic valves, although I do without any trouble. You might also try opening the lock shield valves fully. Are you getting any/much heat through to the rads before the Webasto shuts down?
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Airlock?
Suggest you go on Ebay and get the diagnostic lead/software so you can see what the heater is actually doing when it shuts down. This will also enable you to run the pump on its own and get rid of any air.
You don't say what load you are putting on, i.e. are all the radiator valves open? Or are you just trying to heat the calorifier.
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21 hours ago, leeco said:
Anyone stuck them to their roofs?
what did you use to stick them?
Stixall, roughly one tube under each panel. Four years, and they're still there!
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From my recent research on the subject, most panels seem to have bypass diodes built in, to protect the two strings in the panel from reverse current if one or more cells are shaded. Blocking diodes are required if you have no controller (to stop the battery feeding back into the panels), or if you have multiple series strings of panels which are paralleled into a controller ( to stop one string of panels feeding current back into another, shaded, string).
IYSWIM!
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Peterborough pump out is open and free to use. Three cabinets on the embankment, that is two pump out and one water. One locked box (the left hand of two) on the wall of the elsan building in the photo, this contains a press button time switch for the pump out. Pump out hoses etc are in average condition, you may need to use you own hose to rinse. If the pump out is not sucking when you've pressed the time switch, then look at the other cabinet and make sure the valve is shut there (DAMHIK!).
Mooring all along the same stretch of embankment, but the further you moor from Asda, the quieter it gets. There were many (apparently) long stayers when we were there, together with various tent dwellers in the park - but generally nothing to worry about.
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5 hours ago, Scholar Gypsy said:
I was about to make that point. On the other hand, the licence does include my favourite water point on the entire system ...
Great mooring, but you'll need a brushcutter for the nettles to use the water point!
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On 03/06/2018 at 23:03, Athy said:
Ah, not the boat I thought. As we passed Upwell staithe today I saw a very handsome looking trad boat called Eclipse moored there, thought that was perhaps you.
Thanks for the compliment Athy. What a lovely mooring Upwell Staithe is, although a trifle noisy on a Monday morning from the traffic. We are now on the Ouse, not far from Ely.
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We have 6 X 100W semi flexible panels, wired in two series strings of three panels paralled into the controller. On the advice of the panel supplier, and the controller supplier I have used a schottky diode in each string to prevent current flowing back into a shaded panel. The diodes sit on heat sinks in the junction box.
This setup has performed well over the last three years, but (not being an electronics guru myself!) I often wonder whether the diodes are strictly necessary. On a sunny day, particularly after a bit of random shading as the boat moves along, the heat sinks are hot to the touch - so some energy is being lost.
What do the experts on this forum think, and should the OP be considering the use of diodes in his setup?
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Some on board pump out fittings, including ours, have a groove inside for a second "o" ring. This ring can pop out, or wear, and reduce the seal. Its a cheap fix to replace this ring regularly.
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We were there mid April this year. Lots of rubbish in the canal on the way there and back, and our return was delayed a few hours when magnet fishers hooked a hand grenade near Bridge 5. The cafe was shut throughout our stay, with a smashed window boarded up. Mooring was somewhat limited, with Valley cruisers occupying one arm completely. No rubbish disposal available, and the facilities building taken over by "druggies" - according to Valley Cruisers.
On the bright side, the City Centre was easily accessed via the footbridge. The Transport Museum was brilliant, and on our second visit (Sunday Morning) local classic car owners were having a meet outside. The shopping was generally good and we felt the diversion was well worth the effort.
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We have an outback 60 with 600w of panels. It looks to me as if you are not getting much out of your panels, from the figures you quote. You need to check that the panels are completely unshaded and see what you are getting with the sun overhead, i.e. midday. The controller negative out should be wired to the other side of the shunt.
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We were stuck in Coventry Basin last weekend, while the bomb squad dealt with a grenade fished out by Bridge 5. Local press suggests this is not the first time that magnet fishers have found such items locally.
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Dremel the head off. More control than trying to drill it.
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I have got the Kuma kit, and have used it in a motorhome and on the boat. It greatly improves wifi range with an external aerial, and gives you a router, so enables multiple devices to use one connection. So on campsites, or in marinas where you are paying per connection it is worthwhile, but you maybe limited on speed by the provider. Out on the cut it is pretty useless unless you are in a city centre, and can subscribe to a nearby wifi service. As others have said, any "free" wifi is likely to be slow as a slow thing.
When cruising, we use a Three Homefi, and an external aerial which is infinitely better, and faster. Mobile broadband is the way to go.
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17 hours ago, Jeanie920 said:
Sorry, should have made clear that I don’t think it’s a bollard problem. There is electricity coming on to the boat because the battery is still charging and the mains power light is on on the Vitron. We tried another shore to boat cable just to make sure and it was no different. Can’t try it disconnected from the shore power because at the moment the travel power is not connected. We had a problem and had to take it to Cox’s at Atherstone and now waiting for the engineer to refit it. Thanks for all your suggestions. Called a marine electrician who’s coming in the morning thankfully. Last time I wanted an Electrician he couldn’t come for 2 weeks.
Is there a clue here? The travel power provides an alternative mains source when the engine is running. I would look closely at the "disconnected" leads - could they be shorting?
2LW servicing help
in Gardner
Posted
Happy to help, but over wintering in Great Haywood, near Stafford. And I've just changed the oil - so not servicing until another 200 engine hours have passed. Would a video help? I could make it a winter project.........
Mike