ROBDEN
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Posts posted by ROBDEN
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HI.
If a boat were to be used where there is no chance of the water freezing, what could be put in the cooling system for lubrication purposes instead of anti freeze?
Any ideas gratefully received.
Rob….
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Hi.
Thick or what?
What is VSR chatter?
Thanks Rob....
The reason I ask, is that looking through my spares, I don't have a spare split charge relay.
I have a 90 amp alternator, and at present am using a Durite relay (not very good) so looking for something a bit better.
Thanks again Rob....
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I changed mine last autumn, and bought mine on the Midland Chandlers "Freaky Friday" (20% discount) day. Though I will probably buy 25Ltr from a motor factors next time. (I have a 38ltr system.)
Do you happen to know when the next Freaky Friday is?
Rob....
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I think what his grace favour is try to tell you is not to question your betters and just be grateful for what they give you.
Not my way through the world but he obviously knows better.
Bizzard gave the best advice.
Yeah Bizzard's advice is good. I will go with that when I do it.
Rob....
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Lived like lords in those days,
Phil
You bet.
And you could get proper donuts mmmmmmm.
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or arfur craan.
Or indeed 'alf a dollar.
Ah those were the days, a pint, pork pie and change out of 2s and 6d. (12 1/2p in todays money)
Phil
A pint and a pork pie.....luxury.
Wish I was a nicker behind you.
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Reckon you are reading too much into the word "Coolant" I believe the term is used to describe the fact that it can be used in the cooling system of vehicles, though it may or may not have the property of dissapating heat more efficiently than water. It was quite common years ago for people to drain down after winter, in fact I can remember when anti-freeze started carrying the term "coolant" and always thought it was a bit of a marketing ploy, this back about 50 years ago.
Phil
Hi Phil.
50 years ago I could buy neat antifreeze for my Vauxhall Wyvern, get 2 gallons of petrol, go to the pub and get drunk and still have change from 5 bob.
That's old proper money.....to you young whipper snappers.
Rob....
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If you need 34 litres your engine,skin tank and pipes must be 64 litres that sounds a lot, what size tank is it and what engine.
Neil
No Neil.
I said that my system is 34 litres. So I'll need 17-18 litres of antifreeze.
Rob....
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Just wondering why you want it stronger than the usual concentrate? AFAIK that's the best you are going to get....
Cheers
Gareth
Hi Gareth.
Trying to see if I can get the cost down, and to be honest I don't want to be paying for water again. Water I have lots of.
My cooling system - engine, skin tanks and pipe work - needs near enough 34 litres.
Rob....
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Any Halfords, any chandlery, any vehicle parts wholesaler, and probably larger Tesco, Sainsbury's, Morrison's.
Forgot to say that I've asked in several chandlers and supermarkets on my travels,they have all said "no, not neat."
Rob....
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Any Halfords, any chandlery, any vehicle parts wholesaler, and probably larger Tesco, Sainsbury's, Morrison's.
Thanks, I may be wrong but I don't think that is neat antifreeze.
Halfords' antifreeze says "anti-freeze and coolant". What's the coolant, water? But whatever it is it's not neat antifreeze.
They do ready mixed and concentrate. Ready mixed has water added, and concentrate, has not so much water (coolant) added.
Rob....
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Hi.
Anyone know where I can buy neat antifreeze (ie: undiluted) from?
I've looked around but seem to find it.
Many thanks Rob....
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When you slacken/remove the pipes that go to the oil cooler, use two spanners - one on the union and one on the pipe fitting. Otherwise the union starts to unscrew from the gearbox
Richard
Thanks.
Good point well made.......as they say.
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Although they are "hydraulic" it's just that the lubricating oil is also used to power some pistons to operate the clutches. Not very high pressure unlike a "real" hydraulic system. All self contained apart from the cooler lines as previously mentioned.
Thanks all.
I shall give my spanners a polish in readyness.
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Hi today I found a boat and put a deposit on it, pretty excited lol wont be properly moved on it until january. But will enjoy changing everything inside and having it waybi want.
Just had to tell u lol
I hope the owner didn't mind that you left a deposit on it.
Well done and good luck. Or should I say "a good road ahead"
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Not really any different to most other boxes to remove/replace. You will have to undo the 2 oil cooler pipes from the gearbox. There will be a small amount of oil loss so make sure to check the oil level after you refit & top up with engine oil. It would be a good idea to change the oil anyway.
Thanks for that.
I was concerned that there might be some hydraulic pressure to deal with.
Rob....
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Hiya.
A friend of mine has asked me to replace her drive plate.
I’ve changed drive plates before but only with mechanical gear boxes.
Her gearbox is a PRM 150.
Is there anything I should be wary of in regards of the hydraulic nature of the thing?
Rob….
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A 15p diode in the yellow lead to the regulator would do the job.
Would this still work on a modern alternator ie: push 14.4 volts up to 15v?
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If it's an A127 there's also tractor regulators available:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLTAGE-REGULATOR-FOR-NEW-HOLLAND-TRACTOR-ALTERNATOR-/250716825760
A google search on 'site:canalworld.net arnot tractor regulator' will bring up some info on how to use it for batt sensing and variable voltage.
cheers, Pete.
~smpt~
Thanks Pete.
Just been reading Arnot's posts ( re. tractor regulator ) and found them very interesting.
A friend of mine has just bought a twenty year old boat, with a 55 amp Lucus alternator on, and is only charging at around 13.7-8 volts.
If it really is that simple, orange wire poking out of the regulator, connect this via a resistor of about 220 ohms to the battery positive terminal that the alternator connects to. I'll see if I can talk him into trying one of these.
Being from the north, he does like a bargain.
Cheers Rob....
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Yes quite so, but the point is that contrary to the post you quote there is no connection from A to B to C. There is A to B which is no use because you need C which is buried inside the alternator, the one which does NOT show continuity with D+.
A positive electrical supply arises on the D+ terminal and also to one brush to which it is connected. from there it passes through a coil which produces the magnetic field for the alternator to work, the return to negative is through another brush and the regulator. By varying the amount of current it will allow to pass the regulator controls the strength of the magnetic field to regulate the output. Connecting another wire to this negative brush allows the PDAR to byepass the regulator and take over control of the alternator.
Aah!!!! That loud noise you just heard was the penny dropping.
Thanks for the info', I'll sleep easy tonight now.
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Hi,
I bought one of these 2-3 months ago. It really is well made compared to others I've had and at £19.99 is too good to miss.
Hi.
Got one of these two years ago.
The only problem I've had is when we got frozen in and had to cart water bottles on it ,for about a quarter of a mile in the snow.
The snow kept jamming up the wheels between the wheel, and the fork that holds the wheel. That meant it had to be dragged.
But apart from that, it's been really good.
Rob....
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The post you quote is 100% wrong. The white wire SHOULD show continuity to earth (negative) through the regulator. The "Wrong" brush will also show continuity through the resistance of the rotor, about 4 ohms. The "wrong" (positive) brush should be connected directly to the D+ connection
If you need this done then if you send me the regulator I'll put the wire in the right place for you. You wouldn't be the first one!
Thanks Sir Nibble for the offer but I haven't got one. As I just said to by' eck I'm just interested.
I didn't know that the post was 100% wrong (2008) as no one said at the time. Not even the infamous Gibbo.
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Are you fitting the DAR to an alternator for the first time or ensuring an existing installation is correct?
The white cable is the DAR's field control and needs to be connected to the same brush connection as the alternators own built-in regulator. Trying to find this by using a multi-meter is possible but open to misinterpretation (e.g. continuity found through field coil itself), so its easier for Sterling to suggest the laborious but fail-safe method of attaching wires to each brush and identifying whether its positive or negative field control, allowing the DAR to be set accordingly (via jumper fuse) as well as identifying which brush the white field wire should be connected to. If you don't feel up to this get a decent marine electrician to wire it for you.
Note virtually all European alternators use negative field control and the DAR is factory set to this by default.
No, not trying to fit one and haven't got one. Just interested is all.
If you connect a wire from point A to B to C and then connect a wire to point C aren't you then connected to point A as well?
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You need to have a wire soldered directly to the brush connection on the regulation side (usually negative regulation), since its extremely unlikely there is any external connection to this. Its all explained in the Sterling manual.
Basically the Sterling DAR has to be connected in parallel to the built-in regulator in order to do its magic.
Thanks for that by'eck but I'm afraid I still don't understand (thick or what).
It must be connected somewhere or there would be No continuity.
Rob....
Antifreeze: What do you recommend?
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
I agree. But you can't seem to buy (I've tried) pure antifreeze. They all seem to be pre-mixed, and usually with water, that they expect you to pay for.
As I said in another post....water I've got.
My system holds 34 litres. So if I buy their pre-mixed stuff, I'm paying for aprox' 17 litres of water or as they say "coolant".
Rob....