chubby
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Posts posted by chubby
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Happy days !!
The forum at its best . Brilliant stuff
Hackenbush ......Now get the hell out of Haggerston
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Reading thru this thread has given me horrifying flashbacks to my alternator probs two years ago which i referred to in a previous post
Though i had to work thru similar issues , i wasn t stuck in Haggerston & so this situation is now even more urgent . Broken down in Haggerston ..... my god it doesn t bear thinking about . What a toilet !
Hackenbush , you're doing admirably so things will be fixed soon and all will be well ...... but you 'll still be in Haggerston .....
Good luck with the fault tracing & fixing
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1 hour ago, WotEver said:
You must not run a Webasto/Ebberspscher from a room stat. They do not like short cycling.
Agreed
I have no idea whatsoever as to why folk constantly want to mess around with kit on thier boats . Webasto & eberspatchers are complicated enough as it is . Start messing around with the wiring and its tantamount to inviting trouble at some point . If it starts short cycling & cokes up inside then you 'll be pulling it apart or worse - paying someone else £60 p/h to pull it apart , to replace bits & bobs inside & clean out the carbon build .
I pulled mine apart 3 years ago & im in no hurry to do it again .
To use it i follow this procedure : I press the ON button & leave it for one hour .
If it aint broke ............
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Id be surprised if the experts here don t manage to identify the alternator . I expect that you 'll be needing your multimeter soon ........
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Without doubt you are correct Tony . When I received alot of help during my altenator problems i tried as best i could to describe results to the various tests i was sent away to perform etc . On the whole id no idea what they were for . But folk who did know how to interpret the results wanted the various tests done and so they were . Following the tests it was decided the alternator was dead and so i set about sourcing another .
I expect the OP will be back with the details requested in due course .
At least he hasn t suggested replacing the engine yet as in another recent thread where a lack of info was a hindrance to meaningful help .
I reckon Hackenbush will be back soon enuff with the relevant details
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On a scale running between 1 & Expert my knowledge would be around 0.5 .
But ... as someone who had to go thru altenator probs two years ago and as someone who knew absolutely nothing about how to fix it i can reassure the OP that if they must save money on this issue then it is a job they could almost certainly do themselves . With a great deal of help from the forum i managed it and i knew nada .
I did all the testing etc myself but in the end a new alternator was needed . It cost me £160 so though unwelcome it wasn t too costly a fix . It took many hours for me to work thru the process of elimination to determine the fault / s but this was my time and not someone elses at £40 - £50 per hour . At one point i did get someone in to look at it . This " professionals " abilities reached 0.75 on the scale above .
The point of my post is to attempt to reassure Hackenbush that it is a completely do able DIY job to fit a new one if it turns out to be necessary. Its diagnosing the problem thats
potentially problematic with no alternative to follwing instructions of where to stick ones testmeter etc . This is the laborious bit - atleast it is if you are learning as you go .
Id ask if the engine was being run whilst stationary for charging purposes ? Was it in idle ? Did the OP give it a burst of revs in neutral after turning engine on ? Maybe the alternator never kicked in ( or excited it as i seem to remember from my problems )
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another thing , very important to bear in mind is that a widebeam will be as ugly as sin ........
I think " Widebeam narrowboat s" have all the grace and aesthetic appeal of a shoe box . But thats a personal opinion only ......
cheers
ETA : Whereas a dutch barge style boat either real or relica looks " right " & i really admire them . Id even own one perhaps at a later date
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Two years ago i fitted the entire cabin of my boat with T&G below the gunnells / gunwhales / gunwales ( the spelling police are everywhere) . I love it , old fashioned or not . Its " boaty " to me . I want to live in a boat not a 6 ft wide tube shaped apartment .
A ballache to fit tho & it took 3 months part time to do . Stained , 2 coats of satin varnish front & back and then fitted on top of the existing ply . All put up with brass screws and cups ... even more old fashioned. If i need to take it down its a doddle. If i say so myself & self praise is no praise in my book it does look good as i got obsessive about about it being done right .
Very please with it and tho it has expanded a bit theres no dreaded pale bits of tongue exposed as it was all stained etc before going up .
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My narrowboat is 58 ft long . Im on my todd too . For me it has more space than i need . After 4 years living aboard i still have empty cupboards on board . Its a liverpool boat co build . A much maligned builder but the layout of mine is excellent. Visitors when they first enter through the bow doors often comment that it " feels " spacious .
I think to some extent serious thought needs to be paid to layout . Mine is open plan . Saloon at bow with a huge full size Ikea sofa , dinette , U shaped kitchen to port and a corridor down to the bedcabin via the bathroom. No internal walls - i can see all the way from bow door to rear door . High ceilings, painted white , cream paint on the walls adds to the feeling of spaciousness .
I deliberately keep clutter minimal , because i like to live simply . There are huge storage spaces on board & if i removed the black water tank from beneath my bed i'd have more space than id ever need for storage . Thinking about storage from the outset will help . Needing less clutter will help .
I think that one person on thier own really doesn't need a widebeam . If you WANT a widebeam then go for it , but i really wouldnt want one as a single handler . Ive never been in a widebeam so cannot comment about the space , but from my own experience on my narrowboat i would consider the extra space as either a waste or a luxury . A full size proper bed and bedroom are the only benefits i can imagine , but then i love my little bedcabin and its size is perfect for me . Less is more - atleast to me it is
Other possible considerations : cost of build & fitout , cruising range , single handling , heating of a larger space ? Resale value ?
I think the best bit of advice on this thread so far has been the suggestion you buy a secondhand boat . It is 100% the way forward . You get more for your money & will be able to learn from its ownership - you may go on to commission a wide boat afterward but you'll have learnt what you really want or need through experience rather than theory.
To me i think narrow beam , 58 ft long , well thought out interior- open plan , lots of storage , pay mind to electrical systems - inverters , solar , etc and you can have yourself a very nice , functional & enjoyable boat without the need to go wide .
cheers
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I have a 50 / 60 litre upright calorifier you can buy at a sensible price from me if you want one . Twin coil , no immersion boss . The lack of immersion boss is the reason i removed it . It is in perfect working condition . PM me if you want more details and a price . My price will not be a mickey - take . Tank is currently located in Essex . Up to you .
cheers
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2 hours ago, Sparx said:
Oh dear. There's no hot water for the shower at Foulridge moorings. :-(
Life is brutal ......
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Agreed
I bought my boat , my first , privately . If a deposit was asked for i wouldve walked .
The reason : A complete lack of trust in other peoples ethics . I wouldn t have cared if the seller was the Dalai Lama i still wouldn t have left one penny .
If the buyer wants a survey its going to cost a sizeable amount & it demonstrates a genuine interest .
However , it might be that you have a potential buyer who s looking to buy without a survey . For me they would get priority as theres less faffing involved . It might be worth finding out which of your potential buyers is looking to survey & who isnt ?
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I have candles on my boat . Why ? Because i like them - i find them relaxing , they provide enough light to " chill out " to whilst listening to Pink Floyd . Theyre just much nicer than an LED bulb .
I always grin whenever i read of this or that being dangerous . The person who cannot use a candle without setting fire to themselves really shouldn t be allowed to use a knife & fork for eating thier dinner with or be allowed to tie thier shoe laces up .
Candles are not dangerous . People are dangerous . There are also alot of idiots about despite the fact that many folk have some piece of paper called a degree or anothe qualification that would suggest that infact theyre actually quite bright .
If i walk down any high st i guarantee some twat will be walking along reading thier mobile fone , walking across road staring at facebook or some other tosh .
This clearly means that mobile phones are dangerous as they divert otherwise intelligent peoples attention .
Nonsense of course . Fones arent dangerous & neither are candles . People are dangerous & often thick as shite aswell .
I sometimes wonder whether such notions of killer candles is part of modern britains " someone else is always to blame mentality " .
" i cant possibly be a fxxxxing idiot - the fault lies with xyz "
Big candles , wide base , secure , away from curtains , light with a match , enjoy & ensure its put out at the end of the night . It ain t rocket science is it
Unless you re tool of course !
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Why not ask at Denham yacht station or Uxbridge boat centre ?
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Thanks again to all of you who have replied & helped .
I took off the old filter housing & actually managed to unscrew the top off and so was able to give the gauze a good clean . Once replaced the system seems to be working fine again . Ive had kitchen roll under some of pipework adjacent to the pump and accumulator and it has revealed several very small leaks and so ive fixed those too .
The pump hasn 't kicked in at all for several hours and the pressure in the accumulator is now 21 - 22 psi .
The tap when opened will run for around 15 - 20 seconds before the pump kicks in and it runs for around 30 seconds after the taps are closed .
I think its all sorted but will keep an eye on the speedfit joints that were a bit drippy .
Thankyo so much for all your advice and help , I 'm very grateful
cheers
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9 minutes ago, Richard10002 said:
If all was ok before the new pump was fitted, and you seem to have done everything right, it sounds like a faulty pump from new. For the sake of the cost of another new pump, I'd probably buy one and try. If the new new pump works I might try and get the money back for the old new pump, (or I might open it up and try to fix it).
One thought I'm having is why/how did the previous pump fail?
Cheers ,
When i bought the boat 4 years ago it all worked fine . Within a year the pump began leaking so i pulled it apart and siliconed the joints and when put back together all was fine . Until last summer . I thought , to hell with it i ll buy a new one . It been a PITA since but due to being very busy & distracted by some very difficult studies ive been unable to give too much attention to the problem . This morning tho i decided to sieze the day thinking id just have to adjust some pressures with a bike pump .
Im thinking of removing and replacing the filter housing as im not able to remove the internal filter as its jammed shut
cheers again folks
ETA :
Just seen the replies above , thanks again . Im off to get a replacement filter . The old pump was a shurflo and as i d already done one bodge job repair which worked well for several years i decided to just buy a new one instead ..... thats gotta be easier innit ....... ? Hmmmm
cheers
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A question folks .
The filter just befor the pump has a removable casing in order to remove the gauze within . i have been unable to open the casing for some 18 months or so . Its stuck solid and i cannot get it open . If its accumulated debris would this affect the pumps ability to function correctly ?
Im thinking it would do as the pump needs to make more effort the draw water through the filter ?
cheers again
MRoss Sir . The model you referred to is correct : 31395 0292
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Ive just repeated the tap on etc procedure . The pump took 53 seconds to cut off .
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Mross
Yes their is a gauze filter about 3 inches before the pump
cheers
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Thanks again for the replies folks .
Weird things happening here . To explain .
I set accumulator pressure to 13 Psi . My understanding is the pump cut in pressure is 15 psi / cut out 25psi ( as i say the manual has no reference to these numbers . They come from ASAP supplies website . )
I thought that this set up was correct : ie - accumulator just below cut in , EV just above cut out .
i just tried the system again . So , with taps off and pump running i checked the accumulator pressure . It read 20 psi . I have not pumped it beyond 13 psi . Thenni turned a tap , water came out . I turned off the tap and after about 20- 30 seconds the pump stopped as one might expect .
Happy days ? No
I repeated the procedure . Tap on , out comes water , tap off . Then pump runs and runs and i switched it off after 60 seconds .
Annoying
cheers
eta : pump model is as MRoss suggests -31595 0292
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Further info , no idea of its relevance .
With the pump running the accumulator pressure went up to 20 psi
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13 minutes ago, mross said:
Can you dismantle and clean the pressure switch on the front? Maybe the little hole is blocked?
Hmmmm
Im reluctant to tamper with it , but will do so if needed .
Was my method of accumulator / EV set up correct with regards to the pressures i set ? I thought once set as such the system would be fine
cheers again
Ive checked the rear cabin bilge . Dry as a bone . No sign of water exiting the calorifier PRV neither . No sign of leaks beneath kitchen units nor in bathroom
cheers
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7 minutes ago, WotEver said:
When the taps are closed and the pump runs does it sound like it's struggling? Like it's trying to pump against pressure?
If not, are you sure there's no leak?
PRV leaking? Lots of water in the bilge?
If yes, then it could be a faulty pressure switch.
If i run the pump with taps closed it all sounds " healthy " . The pump doesn t sound like its struggling . It just runs at a certain chatter until i open a tap , at which point the noise level increases .
Cant believe how quick the replies were - thankyou chaps
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Good Morning .
Can i ask for some assistance please with an issue that has become annoying please ?
My water pump runs and runs and will not stop unless i switch it off at the wall . Im flat out busy and have been unable to fix the issue but have decided today i must tackle as its beginning to really annoy me .
The pump is a Jabsco par max 2.9 . It was fitted last year around June after the old one failed and began to leak . The old system worked fine up until the pump failed . The Par Max 2.9 according to ASAP website ( cant make head nor tail of jabsco s and theres nowt in the manual , just simple installation diagrams ) it has a cut in pressure of 15 psi & a cut out of 25psi .
I have done the following :
Stopcock off , pump switched off , taps open Adjust accumulator to 13 psi ( 2 below cut in ) . Adjust Expansion tank to 27/28 psi ( above cut out ) .
Once set as above , stopcock open , switch on pump , water comes out of taps . Turn off taps .
Is this correct please ? If so , it isnt working . The pump just runs and runs ( ive left it for 2 mins max ) until i switch it off again .
I read previous threads on this and none seem to help me . I also read that this pump doesn t need an accumulator and so i re plumbed the pump to bypass the accumulator . It made no difference whatsoever . Unless the pumps 12v feed is cut off the pump will just run and run indefinately . The pump is less than a year old , the accumulator i would expect to be as old as the boat , 16 years .
Any advice please as its got personal and i must fix the problem !!
Many thanks
Help please. Oil spill and rattling engine
in New to Boating?
Posted · Edited by chubby
I assume the OP means RCR . To my understanding CRT are a charitable trust who maintain navigation on britains canals not a breakdown service .
Though i would not claim to know for certain id be somewhat surprised to find out that they will attend boat in order to fit a pulley where there was none present beforehand .
You are not " broken down " afterall . No pulley has " failed " .
I could be wrong though , maybe they will ?