darrenrigg

Hi, Thanks again for your valuable advice, My batteries are very good I have 3 leisure which also get topped up via 160 watt solar panels also I do have a battery charger for shore/geni power. I will check the model number and try looking it up again using the sites mentioned. All the best, Darren Thanks BSP, the clock is almost the same as mine, at least the function buttons are, very use full info. Regards Darren

Thanks for that! I have tried to look for instructions any idea where I can get them from as it has a remote which can set time/days etc and I do not know how to set it?

Hi all I have a eberspacher heater which came with the boat it heats the water tank and supplies heat to the rads, but has no instructions. whenever I use it which is often at the moment I have the engine running at the same time. Can I run the heater without running the engine or will the eberspacher kill my batteries? could I use it with the on-shore power? Kind regards

Ahh!!!! thats simple and cheaper..... Thanks,,, anyone out there who wants a rotary Switch!!!!!

I have come across this diagram,but find it hard to understand where the cables go on the switch!!! maybe a multimeter should help in direction of flow. unless anyone has came across the same model. Pesonally I prefer to just plug the inverter into the mains socket, then only one thing can be plugged in at a time! how doe that work or am I being thick!!!

I have brought a BACO rotary switch for the electrics on my boat, but find the instructions a little confusing. I want to isolate the shore power to inverter. can anyone help and put it in a more simple way to understand how to connect the switch?

Finally the survey report has come through,(34 pages of a detailed report of photos, charts and a language anyone cauld understand) it makes interesting reading and at most great news, wish I could show you. The summary:( quote)Documentation confirming nominal plate thickness was not available, but ultrasonic thickness testing indicated the following as the probable original nominal plate thickness for the main components of the vessel, where small sections vary this is shown in the readings below: Bottom & side plates 5mm Counter (uxter) plate 6mm Swim plates 4mm Supperstructure 3mm (NOTE)The actual original plate thickness may vary slightly from the nominal thickness, so its not uncommon for the original thickness to be a few 10ths of a millimetre or thinner than the recorded nominal thickness. Readings tacken from the bottom plating range between 4.1mm and 5.0mm. This represents a maximum diminution in plate thickness (excluding pitting) of 18% from original thickness of 5mm Readings from the side plates range between 4.5mm and 5.6mm. This represents a maximum of diminution in plate thickness (excluding pitting) of 10% from original thickness of 5mm. Readings taken from the counter plate range between 5.5mm and 5.8mm. This represents a maximum of diminution in plate thickness (excluding pitting) of 10% from original thickness of 6mm. The chine plates at the bow and stern sections are not integral with the side and bottom plating as is the case in the mid section of the vessel, but are separate plates. these are separate chine plates at the stern and at the port bow(but not the starboard bow) have been fabricated from 4mm plate and are therefore thinner than the rest of the hull plating. Assuming pitting at the thinnest points of the hull, this would leave a potential minimum thickness of metal of 2.1mm at the bottom of the pit on the bottom of the plating and 2.5mm on the side plating. on the thinner chine plating fore and aft minimum potential thickness of metal is 2.2mm. It does go on with drawings, charts and more detailed info, he reports that the superstructure and hull are in sound condition. Recomendations are minimum to Crippin, Anodes, blackening, change seacock and rudder bearings. Ill sleep well knowing this. Who says these Springers are cheap pieces of scrap metal made to float? Quality steel obviously

I will find out next week as the full report will arrive by post, what did surprise me was the anodes still have another season left in them, whoever I will be changing them as they were last done 2006, I guess the Crippin's last owner didn't use her much!! I will let you know the thickness of her skin once I have the full report. Thanx

Great news!!! Email came through from the surveyor, Just anodes to be renewed, seacock to be changed,rudder barrings to be replaced and blackening to be done whilst out of the water... Not bad for a girl of 32 years of age. No plating needed!! This Springer is still going strong.Thanks to Sam Springer. Complete report still to come by slow mail,,,,

Great news!!! Email came through from the surveyor, Just anodes to be renewed, seacock to be changed,rudder barrings to be replaced and blackening to be done whilst out of the water... Not bad for a girl of 32 years of age. No plating needed!! This Springer is still going strong.Thanks to Sam Springer. Complete report still to come by slow mail,,,,

Hello again Richard, No panic here my friend, I have heard 2 different measurements, I would have thought they used a standard size steel for the hull. Unfortunately I will not be able to make it for the survey, that thing called work gets in the way looking forward to see the report...

I am putting my craft "Crippin" into a floating dry dock for a survey, she is a 44ft narrow boat made in 1980. The last survey which was done 2006 found the hull at 5.3mm thick!!! I would like to know how thick the skin was when built originally by Springer Engineering? I have heard that they used 6mm steel, I have also heard that they used 5mm steel, but they would of used imperial measurements, not metric?? Does anyone know what thickness of steel they worked with?? Kind regards Darren

You could try a hotel narrow boat attached to a Butty! I met up with some people who had done such a thing in Worcester!!! But,in London, yes I do think you help...... Good luck!!!

The index number is correct, Crippen??? First owner a Doctor???? How strange!!! The Doctors name was not Crippen. But the mind boggles with thought. I will check out Jim Shead's website. Thanks Pete Hi Pete, I cant see why the original owner would change the name of the craft when he bought it in 1980 then change the name 5 years later???