[Help request in Braunston today.]

The best Marine Engineer in Braunston is Jonathon Hewitt, based in the pump house at Union Cananl Carriers below Bottom Lock.

[Mr. Angry at Aston Lock]

3 hours ago, agg221 said:

Not necessarily a load of cobblers, if you consider possible consequences based on timing.

 

The gates are under the same pressure regardless of the length of the pound, be it one lock of as many miles as you like. However, if the top gates had a habit of swinging open then if the bottom gates should happen to collapse when nobody is around then they could drain the whole pound above. This could potentially be the situation for the majority of the time after a boat came up, increasing the risk based on higher probability of the circumstances arising which would create this issue. If they collapsed when someone was working through the lock then for most of the time the top gate was shut, so you would have lost one lockful of water (this is also relatively speaking a very small percentage of the time) and, should they happen to collapse during the very narrow window between the top gate being open and closed again at least the operator could hopefully shut the top gate (and raise the alarm). Once out of the lock, closing the top gate, draining the lock and opening the bottom gates would prevent the bottom gates from failing.

 

Of course, a better solution would have been to stop the top gates from swinging open (two lots of gates to reduce leakage) and the best solution would be to sort out the bottom gates to alleviate the risk.

 

Alec

 

The opening top gates were a pain especially when single handing, because they opened before I reached the other end of the lock. I ended up making two rope lines and carried them with two stakes and a mallet which were deployed to hold the gates in closed position, only removing them once the lock had started to fill.

 

I moored over winter only a few miles from Bath near my home, and had to navigate the K&A every Spring and Autumn in order to access the main system. The lock gate issue was just one problem, there were also swing bridges that were impossible to open/close along with their offside landing stages,  and the complete lack of lock holding moorings. I grew to dislike the K&A, and after a few years took a winter moring in the Midlands, and never returned to the K&A.

 

 

 

1 hour ago, beerbeerbeerbeerbeer said:

I wonder if it is time a cycle permit of some sort is reintroduced?
Since the majority of cyclists are adults and possibly responsible/caring folk would they readily register their bike

and display some sort of ‘badge’?
CRT can’t charge but they could ask for a voluntary contribution, give them a bike badge and a booklet encouraging good behaviour. 

If I cycled the towpath I’d readily sign up to support CRT’s race tracks. 
 

wouldn't stop a nutter smashing your porthole in, but might encourage a better ‘ethos’ amongst cyclists

 

When I started on the Grand Union in the 1960's, non boaters were required to purchase a towpath cycling licence, which I seem to recall cost five shillings. There was also a towpath walking licence which cost less, although I never met anyone who actually possessed either licence!

 

 

[Mr. Angry at Aston Lock]

34 minutes ago, Stilllearning said:

Last time I was on the K and A, the rule was that you left the bottom gates open on leaving a lock. But that was back in the 90s.

 

That is what I also recall, you were even required to close the top gates, empty the lock and leave the bottom gates open when going uphill. I was told by a retired BW worker who had worked at the former Lock Gate Workshops in Devizes that the reason was because the bottom lock gates were not very sturdy, and as the top gates had a habit of swinging open if the lock was full, there a was a risk of closed bottom gates collapsing under the weight of water coming downhill. The K&A was not very busy in the 1990's and you almost prayed for a boat coming in the opposite direction when locking uphill.

 

 

[Mr. Angry at Aston Lock]

1 hour ago, Pluto said:

Sixty years ago there were numerous lock keepers, part of whose job was to check and close lock gates left open by commercial craft. Even fifty years ago I would always close gates after passing through to restrict water loss, and that was with a wide boat working single-handed. Leakage would also be reduced by running a saw down the mitre, usually from a ladder, which I don't think current H&S standards would be happy about.

 

My observations of 1960's working boat practice is based almost exclusively on the Grand Union Canal, where it was normal practice to leave gates open when leaving a lock. The only exception I can recall was one lock on the Chiltern summit, where boats were expected to leave the lock empty if operating late evening because leaking lock walls caused the lock keepers cottage cellar to flood overnight. I cannot recall the name of the lock, but I believe that Alan Fincher's brother worked there in the early 1970's.

[Mr. Angry at Aston Lock]

2 hours ago, MtB said:

 

So what are you suggesting? 

 

Yes it was normal practise 50 years ago but not today. Are you agreeing those historics should be excused closing up behind them? Or do you think they should have been closing up like the rest of us?

 

 I was not suggesting that the owners of Historic boats should not abide by current accepted practice. I was just making an ironic  observation.

 

 

[Mr. Angry at Aston Lock]

27 minutes ago, haggis said:

So, it is different rules for ex working boats and other boaters ?  If they want to be traditional, they should take out their engine and get a horse -:) 

 That is not what I said.  As for removing engines, that is an irrelevant hypothesis, the working boats I witnessed in the 1960's all had motors

[Mr. Angry at Aston Lock]

17 minutes ago, MtB said:

 

 

I followed (on my bike) a couple of nice-looking historics down Crofton and through Bedwyn one warm summer's evening a few years ago. Double width locks and they left both bottom gates wide open on exit from every lock as they went. No attempt to stop and close up behind them, they just cruised out and up to the next lock. Lazy and arrogant IMO. One of the boats was called "Finch" IIRC. 

 

 

 

Those of us who were around when working boats were actually working will recall that it was normal practice for a pair to exit a lock leaving both gates open and paddles up, so they could claim to be operating "traditionally".

 

 

[Enginge smoking]

You do not state how many hours the engine has been run, but I had the same problem with an BMC 1.5 which had run for somethng like 20k hours. A full rebore, new pistons and rings solved the problem.

[CaRT direct debit failure question]

Can you transfer more money (assuming you have enough!!) into your current account and hope that they have not tried to take the payment yet.  If not a phone call to C&RT seems the most sensible thing to do.

[Changes to VNC home page]

Already tried that, it made no difference.

[George Wain]

I knew a George Wain who worked for Willow Wren in the 1960's, but the picture is not of him, are they related?

[Changes to VNC home page]

I am a member of another discussion forum, which uses the same software as CWDF. That forum also has the blue bubbles on the left of the each topic heading, but does not have the green banner at the top, or the "Mark as Solution" tick box at the bottom of the post,.We are normally informed by the Site Staff when there are changes to the forum features, so that is this feature something authorised by the mods, or is it there by default?

 

 

[Changes to VNC home page]

That is interesting, I looked for an earlier topic which has not had any replies, and that also came up with "topic" when I right clicked on it. However, there is now another new feature - a "Mark as Solution "tick box at the bottom of the post and a green banner at the top of the topic which asks which answer was the most helpful, along with a wordy explanation. Personally I can do without all these interferences, Is there any way I can get rid of them?

 

 

 

 

 

[Changes to VNC home page]

I have recently noticed what seems to be a couple of minor changes to the VNC home page. There are now banners indicating  time scales for posts ie: "Past hour", "Today", "Yesterday" etc, along with blue quote bubbles to the left of each topic, which appear to achieve nothing except bring up a banner  marked "Post" when right clicked, I only noticed these since I has to reload my account name and password when I inadvertently deleted them from History in Firefox. Are these unannounced recent changes, or have I just not noticed them in the past

[Deliveries]

1 hour ago, LadyG said:

I did the local availability search, most of the hobby shops are RC or WG, DAMHIK. The place I got my things from just opens four hours per week and the website says "tools".  I dont think they actually encourage custom from passing boaters, but it was worth a punt.

 

All sorted within the space of 23 hours. Good job you weren't in a hurry for them !! 😕

 

 

[Deliveries]

7 minutes ago, LadyG said:

I decided to give up the bike last year, after ending up on crutches after a minor fall, (not bike related) Anyway managed to get some tools from the local shop/art gallery, and anythiing else that I need I can get from Amazon.

 

 

Most people would do the local availability research before going on line asking for help,  and grumbling about retailers applying the law regarding posting sharp implements.

[Deliveries]

21 hours ago, LadyG said:

OK  so I want some sharp instruments to be delivered.

Not all these items are available from one supplier except one who does not do

INPOST

EBAY counter

Amazon COUNTER

Evri

I can have items delivered to a house but this way, it will be two weeks before I get them, and causes inconvenience.

The local model shop opens four hours per week but has no phone number or email as he can't cope with customers trying to contact him. And his website is useless to a potential customer. I want certain tools, he just says, I sell some tools"

 

Given all the "unsolved" problems you seem to have getting readily available items delivered, may I suggest that you get a bike and be prepared to cycle a reasonable distance to a suplier. Alternatively you could plan your cruising routes to be compatible with your hobby requirements.

 

P.S. have you ever heard of Buses or Taxis?

 

 

[BMC 1.5 oil filter housing.]

12 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

Us too on the fleet, much less oil spilt as well, but you do need a supply of gaskets in case the old one splits.

I made the first gasket from brown paper and never needed to replace it in 18 years. When I first started to service my car in the 1960's, I never payed for gaskets, making them myself. Old habits die hard.

[BMC 1.5 oil filter housing.]

3 hours ago, GBW said:

Mine is 1.5 - no pipes.

I've just discovered Calcutt conversion is much cheaper and I'll go for that. 

On the existing engine, I have always removed the whole housing which is straight forward. It is much easier to replace the filter off the engine.

 

Yes, that is what I used to do, after I discovered that was the method used by the Hireboat companies based in Braunston.

[In Post, is this really some sort of letterbox]

4 hours ago, Chris101 said:

You're absolutely right David. I should have been clearer. Liquid hide glue by titebond.

 

As we are talking about using glues for the construction of model boats, it may be appropropriate to mention that neither Hide Glue or Liquid Hide glue is waterproof, and should not be used on any boat that will be used in water. (or any outdoor application which may be exposed to moisture). For external gluing I would always use a good quality Waterproof PVA, or if you want to be a traditionalist, Cascamite, which is still available from specialist suppliers. (and, yes, I do still have some in my workshop!)

 

 

[In Post, is this really some sort of letterbox]

On 13/05/2024 at 16:23, Chris101 said:

Not sure on the suitability for plastics etc but it you want a really nice glue to work with woods and paper you might want to give hide glue a go. It has a really good open time and it's very forgiving. You can even open old joints by applying gentle heat.

 

I assume you are refering to liquid hide glue, which is available from people like Titebond, and not traditional hide glue which I use when restoring antique furniture. and needs to be prepared in water using a heated twin glue pot, and has a very short open time.

 

 

[Buying our first boat]

2 hours ago, TheBeesKnees said:

Hello all 

 

we are going to view our first boat this weekend and I just wanted to ask

what are some questions people ask when they view a boat.

 

I understand what to look for with the engine and do my own checks on that

but when it comes to a narrowboat what do you look for again I understand to check out the wood parks for mould and damp,

but do I need to ask to see anywhere on the boat you wouldn't normally look or ask 

 

please DO NOT REPLY TO THIS TOPIC IF YOU DONT OWN OR HAVE OWNED A BOAT.

 

 

 

I understand why you have posted the last sentence but removing it might help yout to get more usefull advice.

 

 

[In Post, is this really some sort of letterbox]

1 hour ago, LadyG said:

I rarely use Amazon, no complaints.

.Anyways, Ebay has a part completed kit Bluenose 2 kit at heavy discount which I thought I had bought today, but its no longer available,  annoying cos if I  messed up, I'd still have the materials and could start afresh to make a  better job.

This model making is quite intense,  the more I watch Tom Lauria ( who builds museum quality), the more I realise this is not for the fainthearted,  Tom is the Christian Willliams  of model boat building.

 

Have you checked that the model is no longer available because you have bought it. click on "purchase history" in "my ebay" it can sometimes take a while to update, but you should have received confirmation email

 

 

[Wickes Creocote - don't bother!]

I have half a tin of original creosote which I rescued from my father's shed decades ago. It is free to anyone who can collect it from West Wiltshire.

[In Post, is this really some sort of letterbox]

8 hours ago, Ronaldo47 said:

For polystyrene plastic I use a liquid solvent, Plasweld, which consists of dichloromethane (methylene chloride).  It is best applied using an artists paintbrush and wicks into the space between two pieces of plastic by capillary action where it dissolves the two adjacent surfaces so they become firmly and permanently welded together. The advantage for plastic kit construction is that it evaporates rapidly from exposed surfaces so you don't have a problem with glue oozing out at joints.  I get mine from a local shop that sells model railway stuff.

 

Yes I also use EMA Plasweld, it works in exactly the way as described above. The only problem is that it does not like joining pre-painted comonents as it can dissolve the paint at the joining edges. I am currently constructing a complicated building which requires some components to be pre-painted and have just purchased some Revel Contacta glue which, apparently, has a slower drying time and can be applied through a fine nozzle, to the surfaces to be joined, avoiding capillary seepage damaging the paint, I hope!