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Christophe lamby pie

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Everything posted by Christophe lamby pie

  1. Eventually managed to get the boat back to the chap who installed the engine (after 1 snapped gearbox cable and empty canal between Banbury & Cropredy). After checking the wiring, alternator, etc he couldn't find what caused the problem but replaced the damaged wiring and checked everything was working which it still is (fingers crossed). I'm guessing somehow it was a direct or dead short as suggested by Bizzard and others but we were unable to find where.
  2. Thanks all. The alternator came with the engine from Beta and was fitted at the same time - I would hope Beta would supply equipment fit for purpose and not dodgy earth wiring?!?!? Do you think the alternator is US or how do I check? Many thanks Sorry - assumed it was earth because of the colouring
  3. Here we go again, one problem fixed now another!!! Can anyone help with this alternator query. I had a new Beta 38 fitted in March 2013 which has 2 alternators, one for the starter and the other or the domestic batteries. Until yesterday I've had no problems with it (although when it was fitted I was told my wiring is a bit odd). I went to start the engine and the warning buzzer continued to beep even after the engine was running. Also the domestic battery charge lamp was out. Then I noticed the smell of burning plastic and on opening the boards was greeted with a cloud of acrid smoke. After turning the engine and batteries off and letting the smoke clear I found the green/yellow (earth?) wire from the alternator had melted off most of the insulation and the wire was exposed and snapped in places. I tried to replace the earth cable and turned the batteries on only to hear more cracking and smoke issuing from the repaired wire. I've now disconnected the Domestic Charge Sub Loom (95 Amp) and fortunately because of my odd wiring the smaller alternator is charging both my starter and domestic batteries although it seems at a slower rate and not as deep. I fear the worse that the alternator has died but as a minimum the Domestic Charge Sub Loom (95 Amp) will need replacing - am I missing anything obvious do you think? I'm very much an electrical novice, so please use idiot proof terms for me
  4. I think it's pretty old - probably from the original fit out from 1994. The valve seems rather complex and there must be some washer or gasket that's worn out somewhere deep within it. Thanks for trying
  5. I've tried to attach some pictures which will show the issue: Not sure if this will work - not added photo's before
  6. Christophe lamby pie

    4

    From the album: Air/Water Sequence Valve

    Valve after operation - water leaking
  7. Christophe lamby pie

    Air/Water Sequence Valve

    Pictures of leaking toilet valve
  8. Christophe lamby pie

    3

    From the album: Air/Water Sequence Valve

    Valve after operation - Center portion raised
  9. Christophe lamby pie

    2

    From the album: Air/Water Sequence Valve

    Valve during operation - Center portion lower
  10. Christophe lamby pie

    1

    From the album: Air/Water Sequence Valve

    Valve before operation - Center portion lower
  11. The Air/Water Sequencer valve is the part that is leaking. When the flush is operated the air pressure activates the relevant parts of the mechanism and as the process finished a small (8mm dia) plastic/rubber piece at the top of the valve rises then drops and the water seems to be coming from there. I don't think sealant would work as it wouldn't be flexible enough to move with the center piece of the valve that rises then drops. Difficult to describe in words, so hope this makes sense. I don't think it's the same boat as I can't see any sealant!!!
  12. Not as bad as it could be - ie. the water is clear not yellow or brown! but still annoying I have a Microphor/Microflush LF-210 air operated toilet which uses an air compressor to power the system. Having checked the Installation Instructions, I have found that the it seems to be the 'Air/Water Sequencer valve' which is leaking from the top causing a constant drip behind/under the bowl, which finds its way out and then runs across the floor. I'm hoping it's possible to replace this valve but on the Leesan website it is pretty expensive and may be cheaper to replace the whole toilet. Having scoured Ebay, etc I can't find any 'cheap' spares and it appears that the manufacturers are American and no longer make this model. The toilet still works fine but I fear the day when it gives up and we all know it will be in the middle of winter or when miles away from civilization - I could probably manage in the wild but my wife and daughter are not so down with nature!!! Does anyone know of another source of toilet spares in the UK or better still do any of you have a redundant LF-210 that I could salvage? Many thanks
  13. Thank you everyone for your posts. Sorry not for replying sooner but been off the interweb for a while. We managed to find the problem after much probing into small dusty and dirty alcoves - it was as suggested by Bizz as the first reply. The main negative connection to the isolation switch was loose, causing the wiring to move about when the engine was running (to recharge the batteries) and arc/disconnect. All tightened and sorted now - thanks again for the helpful (and a few off track!) posts
  14. Can anybody help me? When we woke up yesterday the newish 12v fridge and shower pump wouldn't work and when the water pump ran all the lights dimmed. Our batteries are less than a year old and the engine was new in February (Beta 38). The batteries seem to charge up normally when the engine is running but as soon as the water pump runs the power drops right down and the lights flicker. To make things more confusing even when the gauges state that the battery power is really low, the Victron inverter still works. I thought the shower pump might have been the cause so I replaced the impellor but still no joy. I've disconned the fridge and replaced a 15A fuse in the engine bay but the wiring looks so confusing I don't know where to start. Please help an electrically challenged bumbler if you can.
  15. Thanks everyone. General consensus seems to be that (as Tom Jones would say) it's not unusual for the bottom not to be blacked - still doesn't really make sense to me as surely everything below the water line would be subject to corrosion, but I suppose the sides are more likely to take a bit of a beating through beginner piloting!!! Having thought a bit more about it, the license had expired so perhaps I'm being overly suspicious as to why it was on blocks. We did like the boat a lot but he couldn't start the engine (due to a first time electrical fault apparently!) and was going to get it sorted so we could go and see it again with the engine running but it still won't be on the water. I'm reluctant to shell out for a survey before trying her on the water, but with her already out surely I save on the costs of hauling her out - Strewth what a quandry We must make sure our heart doesn't rule our heads on this one - thoughts anyone????
  16. Hello again, At last we've accepted an offer on the house and can't wait to take to the water in the next couple of months in a used NB. We've managed to whittle down a short list of 5 boats that tick almost all the boxes and saw what seems an ideal one this afternoon. Two mild concerns though... The boat has been out of the water for over 3 months and the vendor didn't elaborate as to why - is it cheaper to store a boat out of the water? The vendor has also 'blacked' the lower sides of boat himself but when I checked underneath it hadn't been done and he said that as the flat bottom is below the water that bit doesn't need to be done - sounds a bit dodgy to me or am I being overly cautious? Sorry I'm new to all this so not quite up to speed with all the terminology. Thanks for any input you can send my way
  17. No I'm sure - I meant if they were to charge for 'disposal' of my nasties
  18. Sounds like a plan to speak to the chaps at Warwickshire Fly, even if they want to charge me for the priviledge. Thanks for the info
  19. I was looking at the map thing (In your area) and with Boating and Services icon selected it shows a 'Sanitary facility and Water point' between Warwickshire Fly Boat and Blue Lias Inn
  20. Ok thanks for that - I'll see what CRT come back with but you guys obviously know what you're looking for and it isn't there. Hmmmm - it seems cassette in the boot is the only option.
  21. Are they really the nearest? I've checked and checked again on the the CRT website and it lists one in between lock 12 and bridge 23. Not sure I want it sloshing about in my car on the way to work!
  22. Hello out there, Still hunting for the boat that is 'the one' but have secured a mooring on the Grand Union opposite the Blue Lias pub near Stockton/Long Itchington. We think a cassette toilet (and I know that's a whole bigger discussion!) will suit our situation and so my query is what do you do with your poo in this location? According to the Canals & River Trust website there is a sanitary point (Elsan) near to bridge 23 but when we checked out the area in person we couldn't spot anything - anyone know where it is? I've also tried to contact the CRT directly but still waiting a response. We are new to this so may be overlooking the obvious. Thanks for your help o wise ones
  23. Sorry if this has been asked before (or if it's a stupid question)... I'm new to boating, if fact not even on the water yet but hoping to be soon! I've seen a number of NB's passing through Banbury (where I'm currently a land lubber), with the car type roof rack storage boxes on the roof - how are these fitted, because presumably there isn't the car type fixing points? When we do eventually get our own boat, I'm very aware that storage may be an issue, particularly as my daughter has a large collection of what can best be described as 'stuff' so looking at all the alternatives/possible solutions. Thanks again
  24. Thanks for all the responses and sorry for posting too wide a topic. I'll break it down to smaller queries, one by one... We note that it seems quite rare to have 2 separate bedrooms (usually one permanent and the other is a pull out in the lounge) - Are there many boats with 2 bedrooms or how much of a pain is it to hide your bed every morning? Thank you
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