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BM 1051

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Posts posted by BM 1051

  2. Samofa 2-S-108

    in Others

    Posted

    1 hour ago, dpaws said:

    Hi Christian, I googled :D http://flowpoints.co.uk/ the main page, here the type F http://flowpoints.co.uk/products/type-f/ 

     

    and to find on a famous trading website try searching for "Flowpoint sight flow indicator 1" Bsp stainless steel 250 deg 16bar flap plate" (£120 each)

     

    Snip20180628_13.png.281c637e5f3de6c18c7ae8248e368626.png

     

    The 25mm bore is the one I've selected by matching the typical flow rate to approx. 70% of full scale indication. The step up from 22mm dia. domestic copper pipe to 25mm through the meter shouldn't have any significant consequences.

     

    Thank´s

    I didn´t know what to look for, did not know the name.

    One of those gunmetal would be nice on the Hundested engine.

    /Christian

  3. Samofa 2-S-108

    in Others

    Posted · Edited by BM 1051

    36 minutes ago, dpaws said:

    Wow - that's really very kind of you, thanks!

     

    My installation does indeed include the calorifier circuit, the thermostat is set at 60°C; our external thermo-probes suggest that it's opening a little before that but that could be down to a lossy contact between the two. Our water jacket alarm triggers at 88°C if I recall... Our skin tank sounds to be the right size, though how it's baffled internally I don't know - Dave Harris was the fabricator, I'm confident that he'll have built it without shortcuts. In the past what's happened is that the water flows around the cooling circuit but fails to cool the cylinder head, causing the alarm to trigger at 88°C despite being able to hand hold the water pump inlet pipe. This combination of factors led to suspicions about the water pump.

     

    Our investigation so far suggest that both the head gasket is secure (confirmed with block test fluid) and the water pump is working, however, the water in circulation seems to prefer to use the calorifier circuit rather than the skin tank even when after the thermostat has opened.

     

    The flow through the calorifier can be controlled by an inline gate valve, and it's balancing this flow controlled by using the sight gauge on the water expansion (day) tank as a pressure gauge that appears to be the secret to having a happy engine. 

     

    One part of the installation that nobody likes is the skin tank return (22mm) and the calorifier return (15mm) entering from opposing sides of a t junction in the flow return pipework; I'd prefer the 15mm to be fed into the main 22mm stream at an angle as shown.

     

    Snip20180628_8.png.1146e3110037dc89ccba3ab025ed70a2.png

     

    So, while this is being modified I intent to install a pair of these 25mm bore inline flow meters on the main 22mm cooling circuit so I can see exactly what's going on - their indication range is up to 30 l/min (7.9 gal/min).

     

    Snip20180628_12.png.6da5a53b62c27783114d92bbb1b63fe2.png

     

    - yes, overkill maybe but if the system's gone wrong once through trapped air or flow issues it could happen again and I was always taught that you can never have enough instruments!! After re-flooding the system we'll see if the flows balance any better so the alarm trips stop happening. 

     

     

     

     

    This is nice,were did you find these(flow indicators)?

    /Christian

  12. Quietening a semi-diesel exhaust

    in Semi-Diesel

    Posted · Edited by BM 1051

    Long pipe about 5-6 inches diameter and make it too long to start with and then cut small pieces untill it it sounds good:).

    I tried on my own old boat with a "normal" length but to loud,made an extension that i fiddled with in length untill i was satisfied.

    Bigger diameter pipe will make the Hz lower,longer the same.

    Try to have as low restrictions as possible on a two stroke.

    also remember that all the oil that follow the exthaustgases will finaly burn so better to have oil on deck or clothes than in a silencer.

    When you have your first exthaust fire its an experience...........

     

    cheers.gif

    /Chistian

     

    Edit:on my little 15hp Seffle i had a 4"pipe 5 feet long and the Skandia 120 is a "bit" bigger in deplacement.

  13. Zundfix ignitors...

    in Semi-Diesel

    Posted

    I never had to use anything extra to the glow plug to start the 25HP one pot Seffle;Make sure gearbox in neutral. Start up procedure Open decomp bleed tap& turn flywheel to line up mark on flywheel with mark on cylinder, turn on glow plug, open throttle about 1/4, open "oil rod"1/8 (this adjusted the sprayer injector), prime with 6 or so shots with fuel pump priming lever, give crank handle on oiler box a few turns, watch for oil drips in the sight glasses, approx 11/2 to 2 mins from switching on glow plug, give fuel primer another shot,If engine is warm enough flywheel will gently rock back a forth If so open air start valve & a Quick pull/push & hold against compression & away. If air start bottle is low, pull out spring loaded pin in flywheel & kick/push in the wrong rotation against compression more often than not it would spring back & run, If the flywheel didn't move when the single shot of fuel was primed in leave to warm a little longer IIRC 3 mins warming was the longest I had to wait This was caused by the glow plug coil getting carbon ed up a careful clean & back don to the 2 min mark In the 10 years I owned the boat I only had to use the blowlamp 2or 3 times ( due to flat battery )& that took around 15 mins to achieve the the desired effect.

    It had worked for 60yrs with electrical glowplugs.

    I start my Hundested the same way as you do and had no problem.

     

    /Christian

  14. Zundfix ignitors...

    in Semi-Diesel

    Posted

    Should not be a problem to fit an electric glow plug there,how deep is the hole were you put the "cold starter"?

    I have an exploded wiew somewerefrusty.gifjudge.gif of the hundested glow plug but cant find it,just to give you an idea how it looks and works.

  15. Zundfix ignitors...

    in Semi-Diesel

    Posted

    Glow plug for a car would work otherwise check with Hundested a/s,they still have some parts for their old engines.

    As you said this is not a hard part to make.

    Coil style of glovplug are often used(penta AD40 is one i think)

    Here is an email address to a hotbulb guru in DK: perroemer(at)webspeed.dk

    Here is the email to a guy at hundested: brian(at)hundestedpropeller.dk

     

    /Christian

  19. Zundfix ignitors...

    in Semi-Diesel

    Posted · Edited by BM 1051

    good morningboat.gif

    Been down by the boat and took some pics of the cold starters.

    I haven't google it yet but i will.

    I also added a pic of the electric glow plug,they look's almost the same on all engines.

    Waiting for a response from a guy that do some restoring on a Skandia 120,maybe he have a manual.

     

    /Christian

     

    R0011224.jpg

     

    R0011225.jpg

     

    R0011226.jpg

     

    R0011227.jpg

     

    R0011228.jpg

  22. Volvo Penta D67 info?

    in Others

    Posted · Edited by BM 1051

    Ohh....lucky me.........

    This is a Volvo engine,no BM it's a Volvo Penta thing.

    Not sure about spares but truck and buses should be a source for part's.

    I have a good connection with the seniors so i could talk to them but they are getting old.....

     

    /Christian

  23. Volvo Penta D67 info?

    in Others

    Posted · Edited by BM 1051

    here are som info in swedish..............but the top PDF is a manual in english

     

    http://www.volvopenta.com/volvopenta/se/sv-se/marine_leisure_engines/out_of_production_engines/Pages/out_of_production_engines.aspx

     

    I can check with the seniors at work,they have at least one of most manuals.

    Cheers

    Christian

     

    Edit:there is a workshop manual also but only in paper,they probably have that one too but if so i must scan and i don't have one.........

     

    I see that the link doesen't address you correct.

    Go to: Motorgrupp, then select: Inombordare,then go to: Bränsletyp then select: diesel then go to: Antal cylindrar select 6 then go to:Produktionsår then select year(1960-1969)

  25. raw water cooling filter

    in Others

    Posted

    Hello,

    i just made two for my new boat,one for fresh water side and one for sea water.

    The reason for making one for the fresh water side is that rust damaged my fresh water pump.

    The one in the picture is the small one,it's made of 3" stainless tube and the fittings are 3/4" BSP.

    The one for sea water is 5" tube and a bit higher,i left it at work but i can get a picture of it tomorrow.

    The "filter is made of sheetmetal with holes,not sue what you call ithelp.gif .

     

    Cheers

    Christian

    DSC_1303.jpg

     

    DSC_1304.jpg

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