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pedroinlondon

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Posts posted by pedroinlondon

  1. Hi all

    Over last week's very cold spell the light on the engine temperature warning light came on, accompanied by the it's sister, the terrifying beeeeeping sound.

    I switched the engine off and hoped that the complaint was about the ridiculously low temperature, but as switched it on again last night it happened again. I'm now guessing the engine is overheating and not very cold. (Sorry for not knowing much about engines by the way).

    So which one is it and what are the most likely causes of this?

    Thanks a lot

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  2. Following a recent issue I had with my starter motor, I serched for information on facebook on canaline engines and found nowt.

     

    It would be great to have one, as a first port of call when doubts or issues arise. Would anyone be interested in starting one? I could do it myself, of course, but it would be better that someone with at least a working knowledge of engines be the main admin.

     

    Something like "Canaline and Isuzu boat engines" or something?

     

    Even without knowing more about engines than how to change the oil, I already know of a couple of tips that could save Canaline boat owners a lot of money and grief, following my recent troubles.

     

    Those could be logged in the facebook group for later ref. Of course, if they could be duplicated in this forum somewhere, possibly.

     

    Please let me know your thoughts.

  3. You can probably find where each wire is connected b experimentation.

     

    You should have at least one thick wire that shows 12V when you connect a voltmeter This is the main input cable. If you touch each other cable in turn and see what happens you will know which one to connect to which terminal on the switch.

     

    The "main input" terminal on the switch will almost certainly be a 9mm blade plus an extra 6mm terminal.

     

    The aux (ignition on feed to instruments) will be a 6mm blade possibly twined. Just turn the switch on and touch the wires onto the 6mm blades until you find the one that puts the warning lamps on.

     

    Turn the switch to heat and connect each wire in turn to the 9mm blade that probably become live until you find the one that feeds the heater plugs.

     

    The last 6mm (usually) blade fees the starter motor solenoid.

    Thanks Tony. I will try that if necessary.

  4.  

    Be aware that the one you've linked to doesn't specify a cross match to yours, though I've noticed the US sites seem to show the -63015 & -63016 as interchangeable.

     

    You might have to graft the nose of the fried one onto a -63015 I suspect.

    It's actually this one, which seems to be the same anyway... The ref printed on the dead alternator is a match (Mando MG117559).

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SL1325-MANDO-KIOTI-DAEDONG-CK25-Cub-Cadet-8354-DK35-DK40-DK45-Starter-Motor-/371694564703?hash=item568ab8f55f:g:aiYAAOSwH71XPa2K

  5. You won't change the bracket on that without a full strip down I'm afraid. Not a big job and I could talk you through it bolt by bolt if need be.

    Hi Sir Nibble. Are you talking about the supporting brackets? Surely not if you mention "strip down". I'll wait until it arrives, perhaps when I try to fit it in the place of the old one it will become clear.

  6. Sorry guys. Been on the phone by the motor bay. Yes, starter motor not engine. May not be knackered just solenoid gone. The problem was caused by my stupid hot wirinh. Starter motor stayed on so it kapputed. Not sure about the extent of the damage until it gets looked at. In the meantime I'll get the ign replacement.

  7. Hi. I lost my ignition key. This morning i try to "hit wire" the engine. It worked for a bit then i burnt the starter engine. Dies anyone know where i can order suitable replacements from? The ignition key hole is abiut 26mm in diameter. Thanks in advance for any links and tips

    Sorry for the typos. Crap new phone :(

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