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pedroinlondon

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Everything posted by pedroinlondon

  1. pedroinlondon
    I have not but will do later.
  2. pedroinlondon
    How many inches on a dipstick is "not much"? The fuel take off pipe should be well over an inch above the bottom of the tank and could be 4 inches so if its less than about 6 inches you can't be sure that you have not run out of fuel. Hi Tony, I've let it run quite low but not that low, unless now there's more water than fuel... I would say about 12 inches or something like that. Not enough that would be worth recycling or saving, that's what I mean.t I can't help with the smoke because I can't see anything in that area that is likely to smoke. There seems to be an alternative oil filler there but that should not allow white smoke out, I would expect it to be sealed but if its vented a badly worn engine might produce fumes from it but I can't see that your engine is old enough for that to be realistic. Ok. Can you confirm the engine was not overheating? It was not. I didn't have time to overheat, as it only run for a few seconds. Is there a battery cable sized cable in that area connected to the engine block or engine bed?? If so is the terminal properly fitted to the cable and is the terminal clean and tight on its fixing? It is well fitted (well I will double check this evening when I'm back there). Could the battery bank or the cable interfere in any way with the running of the engine or are you asking in case you suspect something got entangled somewhere? I don't think there's anything lose but I'll double check carefully. Ok, but can engines overheat within about 5 seconds of starting? Would not that take at least half a minute even if the air filter completely blocked?
  3. pedroinlondon
    Thanks but do you know where the smoke was likely to be be coming from? Presumably it needs to be replaced or unblocked. As I don't have much fuel in I'm wondering is draining the tank and then adding new fuel with biocide would be a quicker and healthier solution.
  4. pedroinlondon
    Interesting and quite possible. Is there a way of getting biocide to the affected area? I don't suppose there would be a point in adding it to the tank at this stage. How did you fix it?
  5. pedroinlondon
    Hi I wonder if anyone can help despite the vague description that will follow... I cruised for about an hour a few days ago without any trouble at all. This evening I switched the engine on, it started fine but after few seconds it stopped, and then white smoke come up from the area encircled on the photo. Not nice. I don't want to try starting it again as I don't really like white smoke coming out from where no smoke of any colour should be coming out of. There's nothing charred, no marks and no leaks that I could see. Any ideas? Video not of while it was smoking, just to better show the area in question: Thanks
  6. pedroinlondon
    Yes, and two coats of floor paint.
  7. pedroinlondon
    Thanks Blackrose. I did get in touch with the manuf and they suggested exactly that. Either to the boat or to the ground with one or two spikes.
  8. pedroinlondon
    I ended up finding a Builder Depot a mile away who sell phenolic ply and I'll stick a roll or anti slip ribbed rubber matting on the cut sections later. If any of you needs some, please note that they seem to sell individual boards if paid and collected in store. Delivered there's minimum quantity of 5 boards. Thanks for the suggestions. https://www.builderdepot.co.uk/18mm-phenolic-film-faced-shuttering-grade-plywood-2440mm-x-1220mm-8ft-x-4ft
  9. pedroinlondon
    Hi Thanks a lot for the replies and apologies for this late reply... internet issues Indeed the best option is to replace them, but I thought of asking in case someone knew of an easier and quicker way out as the present boards are still fit for purpose, just not very good looking really. A steel plate over would save them from early decay but the added weight would be a big inconvenience. It's a widebeam and I often need to lift them the middle one :) Thanks again
  10. pedroinlondon
    Hi Is there a material that can be used to replace repair the top layer of the boards? These are beyond painting... Thanks
  11. pedroinlondon
    Hi Wot It's not. There's a nut+bolt connection for a cable on it.
  12. pedroinlondon
    Hi all I've bought a 2.5K W metal frame petrol generator (Briggs & Stratton Sprint 3200A) and was strongly advised to earthing it before using it again. There are no instructions on the manual regarding this (or much of anyting else) and so I took to google for answers. I understand after a short general search that one way of doing this would be connecting a copper cable to the earthing nut of the generator and the other end of the cable to a copper rod (Screwfix product 87633?) hammered a foot or so into the ground, preferably wet ground. I understand there are several variables that may affect the reliability of the "system" (the quality of the connection of the cable to the rod;the state and type of the ground; the lenght of the cable; etc; etc) but does anyone have a tried and preferably tested way of doing this? The genie is over 60kgs so I'd like to leave it on the roof of the boat, so the cable lenght will be around 3 meters. I have some 7mm multi strand copper cable left over, can I use it? Ideas and suggestions welcome Thanks
  13. pedroinlondon
    Thanks Jen I was only trying to avoid rearranging the cabling and the support battens I have to secure the existing battery. The engine does start well usually. Hi Bizzard It's nearly 50hp and indeed I only use the engine for cruising once or twice a month. Never run it to charge the batteries unless the Sun is unavailable also. Thanks
  14. pedroinlondon
    Mornings The starter battery fitted by the boat builders has probably expired after 6 years. It's a Dynamo 110 and I left it home charging with a MXS 5.0 charger, but even if that revives it for the next cruise I think it's time it's retired. Any suggestions on preferably similar sized batteries (11'' distance in between terminals) in the £100 neighbourhood? It won't need to be a particularly excellent battery as it will be connected to the solar panel system but a decent cold cranking rating would be nice. Thanks
  15. pedroinlondon
    Thanks everyone. I still don't know what to do. I may try to amalgamate all the suggestions into one. But seriously, I think I'll take it apart and see if there's something obviously wrong with it. If in doubt I'll replace it. Thanks again.
  16. pedroinlondon
    Thanks a lot David That seller is definitely not a chandler. Not sure how to classify that shop though, have you bought from them before? I don't expect to be exposed to salty water unless someone from Thames Water make a very tragic mistake!! Thanks Nightwatch
  17. pedroinlondon
    Hi My Shurflo has develop partial incontinence. I'm assuming this matter has been debated to death but rather than searching through the archives I decided to post it as a new topic, mostly because I couldn't waste an opportunity of mentioning ''partial incontinence'' in a forum topic and then repeat it a few times in the text. Rather than repair it I could just replace the whole partially incontinent mess as it's six years old anyway, but then realized it's been discontinued. Any suggestions? Would it be worth repairing it (after finding out if it's the diaphragm or what exactly is wrong with it) or just replace the thing with the closest replacement on the market right now? Thanks in advance
  18. pedroinlondon
    He's very right
  19. pedroinlondon
    Well, it was the humble air filter the culprit. I'm not going to reveal how many times I changed it (or not) over the last few years as no one would believe me ?, but I cruised for about one hour after changing is an no complaints from the heat sensor and alarm. So there.
  20. pedroinlondon
    No calorifier.
  21. pedroinlondon
    Yes it is Well, yes. But as I won't be using the engine for battery charging any time soon and I will only be cruising for about one mile this weekend and one more mile two weeks after that (yes, one of those bridge hoppers ) the situation is not desperate. I do need to know how to fault find this kind of thing if it happens again though.
  22. pedroinlondon
    Brethren, apologies for the anti climax but the light and alarm stopped doing it. No unusual amount of water or oily water on the engine bilge, no signs or discolouration or unusual smells of any kind. I checked the oil cap inside, topped up the tank which took only about a glass full of water and ran the engine for 15 minutes. Nothing happened. No unusual smells and no alarm. I'll run it for longer over the weekend, but it seems that the cause may have been an air lock or an earthing wire that moved and stopped creating the issue so to speak. I'll keep on monitoring it and will ask the engineer to look into the issue when he visits for a general inspection, possibly in April. Don't you just love when problems fix themselves? Many thanks for the suggestions. I'll saved this thread for future reference.
  23. pedroinlondon
    It varied on both times but it was never instant. Fist time it took about 15 minutes and last night 5.
  24. pedroinlondon
    I cannot recall the ratio but it was at the recommended one on the container.
  25. pedroinlondon
    Thanks a lot Alan and Tony. I will check all that when I get back to the boat this evening. In regard to the antifreeze question the answer is yes. I replaced the old with new about two months ago.
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