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pedroinlondon

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Everything posted by pedroinlondon

  1. pedroinlondon
    I see. Thanks Alain
  2. pedroinlondon
    Thanks both. So where do you think this 10 page thing applies for? It's like not even similar to either one of your examples. By the way, my boat is not a yatch but a canal widebeam. I may have used unclear language on my original post.
  3. pedroinlondon
    Hi All I'm not new to boating but the guys who want to buy my boat are, so I hope I'm posting this under the correct topic. When I purchased my boat the bill of sale from the brokers was 1 1/2 pages long; a friend of mine who sold her boat in 2017 used a one-page doc. My boat's buyers sent me a ten page (yes, 10) template which they downloaded from the RYA website which to me seems excessive, by being unduly minutious and I think not reasonable for this section of the boat market. I'm attaching the one bill sale from my friend here (photo) and the ten page template I was sent by my boats buyers (word format). Could it be that this RYA document was intended for really boaty boats, including multi million pound vessels? Obviously there's a mention of a "sea trial" and "necessary crew", but also there seem to be provisions to stop the seller from disappearing into the wide open sea after getting the payment as well as a few others odd bits. Anyone care to opine and even posting redacted templates of the bills of sale you have used?bill of sale redacted.docx Many thanks
  4. pedroinlondon
    Sorry, why do you still have one then? Thanks a lot. This is the kind or problem I was wondering about when I first though of it. Air locks or some kind of "suction" effect.
  5. pedroinlondon
    I see, thanks. It's quite far from the bilge so no.
  6. pedroinlondon
    The starter battery is connected to a dedicated 40W solar panel so it should be ok. I don't expect the pump to run a lot quite frankly.
  7. pedroinlondon
    Well I'm not in a marina and the buffalo boards are fairly heavy to lift (widebeam) and I don't always have mates with boats moored nearby. I would also fit an inline fuse so that's one more thing that could go wrong on top of the pump malfunctioning as you very well said. The starter battery was quite cheap so worst case scenario would be abnormally heavy rain fall and the pump not waking up.
  8. pedroinlondon
    Thanks. I think this one (or perhaps another one I looked at) switches on at 2 inches of water and off at 1 inch.
  9. pedroinlondon
    I was referring to this one. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Amarine-made-Automatic-Submersible-Bilge-Switch-new/dp/B01MRY4LNJ/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=SEAFLO%2B750GPH&qid=1610721504&s=sports&sr=1-3&th=1
  10. pedroinlondon
    Hi So at present I have a bilge pump without a float switch fitted and I very rarely need to use it, but as I expect to be away for long periods in the near future I'm going to fit a pump with an integral float switch. Something like the Amarine Made 12v 1100gph which has good reviews on amazon. Several pumps of different brands seem to be exact copies of each other, so if you have a recommendation of a more reliable one let me know. Yes, 1100gph for a couple of drips when it rains is a bit ridiculous but the difference in price to a 600gph is not worth the saving, and I may decide to use it for something else in the future where more force may be needed. My question is if it's advisable to fit a non-return valve on the waste water hose, close to the pump, in order to avoid all the water in the hose from flowing back? So as the exit point of the waste pipe will be about 1M higher and about 1.5M in length there will be some water in it at the moment the bilge water level on the bilge drops enough to for the pump to switch off. Or do these pumps usually have a non return valve already fitted internally? Thanks
  11. pedroinlondon
    Today I can only see a misty sky upon a granite wind
  12. pedroinlondon
    I think they were on the same position Patron.
  13. pedroinlondon
    Thanks a lot Tony The battery size increase won't be a problem at all. The issue with a higher charging demand will be something to worry about during the short days of winter, really, also because this year I will be using my new Planar 4 heater. The three 100W solar panels should be able to keep most battery banks topped during most of the year (knock on wood), considering how little electricity I really use.
  14. pedroinlondon
    Hi My two (once very awesome) Tojan leisure batteries are pretty much dead after 8 years of service and in need of replacement before winter and falls upon the land. Initially I was planning on just replacing the two existing TMHs with three of the same, but realised there's a slightly more expensive model (31XHS) with slightly larger capacity and current discharge. Any cons on choosing those instead? Can anyone tell me if the difference in performance between the TMH and the 31XHS is worth the price difference? Also would the one with more capacity be more difficult to charge or bring any other type of inconvenience? No idea what the different capacity C's mean for starters Thanks TMH https://www.tayna.co.uk/leisure-batteries/trojan/27-tmh-wnt/ 31MXHS https://www.tayna.co.uk/leisure-batteries/trojan/31-xhs/
  15. pedroinlondon
    I used one insulated straight Butt connector for each wire.
  16. pedroinlondon
    Thanks Tracy, that makes sense. Yes, half of the point of posting questions here is so that others can get answers. No that only solenoid connections cause white smoke of course
  17. pedroinlondon
    I'd like to edit my original post, so to suggest to readers they may wish to skip the first pages so they don't panic lol. I cannot find an "edit" button. Am I missing something?
  18. pedroinlondon
    Hi guys Sorry I just realised I'd forgotten to update you all. It was the humble solenoid. Replaced and it's all is rainbows, bunnies and green fields again :) A two minutes internet order and a couple of bolts and that was it. Thanks a lot for all your help as usual.
  19. pedroinlondon
    I have not a member of the Facebook family for a couple of years, so not me. Perhaps someone reading this looking for answers too?
  20. pedroinlondon
    Fingers crossed
  21. pedroinlondon
    Thanks WotEver! They'll probably need the ref number or perhaps a photo and with the dimensions will suffice.
  22. pedroinlondon
    So no markings of any sort under the paint on the solenoid. Having some doubts regarding finding a match. Does anyone here know which Kioty/Isuzu engine the Canaline 52 is based on? Thanks
  23. pedroinlondon
    Thanks Tony. That should be feasible. I'll drop by Unistart later to get the solenoid replacement and ask them if they can help with the rest of it. Some is crinkled plastic with a split but for some reason there's a lot of what looks like self amalgamating tape or similar. Easily replaceable if I need to cut it open really.
  24. pedroinlondon
    Morning Tony Thanks for your suggestions. I am more inclined to follow your latter suggestion as not to disturb the other cables that share a conduit all the way to the starter motor (and possibly other parts?). Unfortunately I didn't have time to follow the cable properly yesterday, will try again later. As for this cable, is it overly complicated inside? You mention the colour codes. Do you know how many wires are inside such cable? You're right, I don't have crimper for this unusual square blades so will ask the help of an electrician or auto electrical shop. I'm only familiar with fitting in cabin and solar electrics, which is much easier and forgiving than engine electrics...
  25. pedroinlondon
    Definitely 3 pin.
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