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pedroinlondon

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  1. pedroinlondon
    I was referring to this one. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Amarine-made-Automatic-Submersible-Bilge-Switch-new/dp/B01MRY4LNJ/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=SEAFLO%2B750GPH&qid=1610721504&s=sports&sr=1-3&th=1
  2. pedroinlondon
    Hi So at present I have a bilge pump without a float switch fitted and I very rarely need to use it, but as I expect to be away for long periods in the near future I'm going to fit a pump with an integral float switch. Something like the Amarine Made 12v 1100gph which has good reviews on amazon. Several pumps of different brands seem to be exact copies of each other, so if you have a recommendation of a more reliable one let me know. Yes, 1100gph for a couple of drips when it rains is a bit ridiculous but the difference in price to a 600gph is not worth the saving, and I may decide to use it for something else in the future where more force may be needed. My question is if it's advisable to fit a non-return valve on the waste water hose, close to the pump, in order to avoid all the water in the hose from flowing back? So as the exit point of the waste pipe will be about 1M higher and about 1.5M in length there will be some water in it at the moment the bilge water level on the bilge drops enough to for the pump to switch off. Or do these pumps usually have a non return valve already fitted internally? Thanks
  3. pedroinlondon
    Today I can only see a misty sky upon a granite wind
  4. pedroinlondon
    I think they were on the same position Patron.
  5. pedroinlondon
    Thanks a lot Tony The battery size increase won't be a problem at all. The issue with a higher charging demand will be something to worry about during the short days of winter, really, also because this year I will be using my new Planar 4 heater. The three 100W solar panels should be able to keep most battery banks topped during most of the year (knock on wood), considering how little electricity I really use.
  6. pedroinlondon
    Hi My two (once very awesome) Tojan leisure batteries are pretty much dead after 8 years of service and in need of replacement before winter and falls upon the land. Initially I was planning on just replacing the two existing TMHs with three of the same, but realised there's a slightly more expensive model (31XHS) with slightly larger capacity and current discharge. Any cons on choosing those instead? Can anyone tell me if the difference in performance between the TMH and the 31XHS is worth the price difference? Also would the one with more capacity be more difficult to charge or bring any other type of inconvenience? No idea what the different capacity C's mean for starters Thanks TMH https://www.tayna.co.uk/leisure-batteries/trojan/27-tmh-wnt/ 31MXHS https://www.tayna.co.uk/leisure-batteries/trojan/31-xhs/
  7. pedroinlondon
    I used one insulated straight Butt connector for each wire.
  8. pedroinlondon
    Thanks Tracy, that makes sense. Yes, half of the point of posting questions here is so that others can get answers. No that only solenoid connections cause white smoke of course
  9. pedroinlondon
    I'd like to edit my original post, so to suggest to readers they may wish to skip the first pages so they don't panic lol. I cannot find an "edit" button. Am I missing something?
  10. pedroinlondon
    Hi guys Sorry I just realised I'd forgotten to update you all. It was the humble solenoid. Replaced and it's all is rainbows, bunnies and green fields again :) A two minutes internet order and a couple of bolts and that was it. Thanks a lot for all your help as usual.
  11. pedroinlondon
    I have not a member of the Facebook family for a couple of years, so not me. Perhaps someone reading this looking for answers too?
  12. pedroinlondon
    Fingers crossed
  13. pedroinlondon
    Thanks WotEver! They'll probably need the ref number or perhaps a photo and with the dimensions will suffice.
  14. pedroinlondon
    So no markings of any sort under the paint on the solenoid. Having some doubts regarding finding a match. Does anyone here know which Kioty/Isuzu engine the Canaline 52 is based on? Thanks
  15. pedroinlondon
    Thanks Tony. That should be feasible. I'll drop by Unistart later to get the solenoid replacement and ask them if they can help with the rest of it. Some is crinkled plastic with a split but for some reason there's a lot of what looks like self amalgamating tape or similar. Easily replaceable if I need to cut it open really.
  16. pedroinlondon
    Morning Tony Thanks for your suggestions. I am more inclined to follow your latter suggestion as not to disturb the other cables that share a conduit all the way to the starter motor (and possibly other parts?). Unfortunately I didn't have time to follow the cable properly yesterday, will try again later. As for this cable, is it overly complicated inside? You mention the colour codes. Do you know how many wires are inside such cable? You're right, I don't have crimper for this unusual square blades so will ask the help of an electrician or auto electrical shop. I'm only familiar with fitting in cabin and solar electrics, which is much easier and forgiving than engine electrics...
  17. pedroinlondon
    Definitely 3 pin.
  18. pedroinlondon
    So... it was either the solenoid or the plug or (most probably:) both. The smoke was possibly the plastic. Now, is there a name for the cable with the plug that fits in the solenoid? The plug itself has melted and it looks like the end is factory fitted. So... it was either the solenoid or the plug or (most probably:) both. The smoke was possibly the plastic. Now, is there a name for the cable with the plug that fits in the solenoid? The plug itself has melted and it looks like the end is factory fitted.
  19. pedroinlondon
    No.
  20. pedroinlondon
    Thanks The engine is turned on and off by key only. No stop buttons at all. Sorry foor missing questions. This site on mobile is a bit chaotic and I don't have my laptop here.
  21. pedroinlondon
    Close up of the area if it helps IClose up of the area if it helps
  22. pedroinlondon
    So here. Big correction: the smoke forms straight away once the key is turned to the first position (checking batteries et al?) As the gopro was right in front of the area and I could see the image on my phone while standing by the ignition, I didn't proceed to start the engine as I saw the smoke as it was forming. Sorry can't really describe the smell, but it's not burning rubber and does not smell as other electric fires I've smelled in the past... So something electrical and you guys suspected. But what is it??
  23. pedroinlondon
    Interesting and quite possible. Is there a way of getting biocide to the affected area? I don't suppose there would be a point in adding it to the tank at this stage. How did you fix it?
  24. pedroinlondon
    Thanks Tony. I can see you're intrigued by this I will be back to the boat in a few hours and will see if it's possible to place a camera or even two in the area. Hopefully that will make things a bit more clear. As for the smoke being steam, I really don't think so. It was heavier, whiter and rising quite differently from steam. That could very well be the case. I only happened to notice the smoke at the boards were up. I am in the process of replacing the phenolic boards and was going to measure them while the engine was running. More often than note the boards would be down.
  25. pedroinlondon
    To be honest I suspected an electrical failure of some sort from the beginning as the cut off was so "clean" but that was just a hunch, as I'm such a newbie... No squeal at all but the alternator belt could be too tights or worn. Would a problematic alt belt send a signal for the electrics to shut down? So if it's the belt and not the alternator, could the smoke be white? The alternators are on the other side but the belt naturally runs all the way along.
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