sinkingbarge

Besides the id number plate, is there a way to identify if my (what i thought was a jp3 and was told was a jp3) is infact a jk3 ? Its got a fuel pump on the front lhs beside flywheel. There are decompression valves on the heads. The engine appears to be bloody anchient so id be surprised if it wasnt pre 60s ! Any tips on identifying the engine age would be gratefully receieved Many thanks Dave

Just took apart filter and seem to have what looks like lots of dog hair on the filter but suspect this is just from inside the filter, not too worried about this. A little bit of black gritty grunge at bottom of red aluminium filter housing maybe in volume a tenth of a teaspoon. Lister Peter genuine part number 252427 which again i am considering replacing as a matter of course. Can anyone advise where this comes from? Thanks Dave Thanks Jo, that's what I suspected. Fuel ordered but not arriving until next Friday so let's see. Fingers crossed. Dave

Thanks for advice again. I just undiid fuel inlet and outlet to fuel lift pump. to my surprise diesel hasn't siphoned from the tank pipe when I disconnected it from the lift pump inlet, suggesting a lack of diesel. This seems strange as there's 4 inches of diesel in bottom of tank- perhaps this is simply a case of running out of diesel. (any advice here appreciated) I've spilt open the lift pump and the diaphragm looks fine but I'm going to replace it as a matter of course as I've got it on the bench in pieces and have to wait for diesel fill up anyway. Can anyone advise where I can order or collect one from it's rubber, black and red with 5 holes for screws and a little lug. I presume It's a fairly standard part but any tips on a quick order or buy would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for all tips so far, Dave

Thanks very much for all the replies. I'll be carrying out all the chekcs tomorrow and may change the oil as a matter of course anyway. Can anyone explain why this problem appeared to suddenly come on (leaving us stranded on the wrong side of the regents canal)? Thanks Dave

by the way its not an sr2 its an sr 3 sorry. other thing to note that i forgot to mention is the following. when the engine hunts and stalls which it does do if the throttle is not held really high. if you give it ten seconds it always fires up again an runs fine for about ten seconds even though it stalled. ie. it seems to die for some reason whcih i suspect is fuel shortage and then after being stopped for only about ten seconds it fires up after it gets cranked over a couple of times. hope this helps thanks again dave thanks tony for that reply.. can you advise where the lift pump is what causeds the leak from diesel to the oil level > does it occur while standin gor only when running . ill check to see if levels risen at all since i leveled it to the correct dipsick mark. thanks again dave

Hi folks any help here would be greatly approeciated. Girklfriends sr2 was running briliantly for months and being run once a week for a couple of hours to move boat on a cruising lisc up the london canals or to just charge battery. One time whilst she was away the bilge wasnt emptied and the engine was run for about 2 hours and we noticed it was smoking a bit at idle but no real problems Then when we took her for a run after about half an hour power got less and we had to use higher throttle opening to maintain revs till we could moor up and rest. Bilge was emptied and engine left to cool. After a while of rest about half a day we noticed this behavour reoccuring when we fired her up, although it seemed like it improved after leaving it idling for half an hour. then on the journey home this behavouir of needing high throttle opening to give revs reoccured and she would stall at low revs. now i have noticed that firing up from cold still gives this problem, however every now and again the engine suddenly springs to life and sounds normal for about ten of fifteen seconds, then it starts to do what i would describe as HUNTING ie. it goes up and down in revs as if its being starved of fuel. so far i have not checked fuel filters or fuel lines and would welcome any advice on how to do that. any books out there or online manuals for an sr2 that i can buy or download ? I don't think this is the air-cooled over heating because it does this hunting thing when you fire it up from cold. I did however shit myself that running the engine with a high bilge water level may have caused a huge amount of strain on the engine if water was hitting fly wheel etc. Immediately after i checked gfs oil level and it was quite high. We pumped some out to get it down to a normal level and i worried that water may have got in sump and raised it artificially high, but oil isnt grey or emulsified and i suspect gf simply overfilled it with oil at some stage or her mechanic did. Im taking tommorow morn to look at it so any advice greatly appreciated. Thanks Dave

Hi all, when removing cylinder heads I broke a stud which i need to either manufacture or hopefully replace. its the front of engine studs on a jp3. THe two studs are slightly longer on the front of of engine because they go trhough an extra big rocker cover which has a support for the hand start spindle. I picked up heads and gaskets and valves from a well equipped Tony Redshaw company, but he didnt have any of these studs left, although has offered to make one. Does anyone have one of these ? Thanks Dave

hi all thanks , after getting the pushrod tubes free, the heads more or less fell off. probably after all the whacking they got before. latest is 2 of the heads are cracked. one very historic water damage, but the other one may be new. im trying to convince my self that its not due to my mauling efforts prior to taking the pushrod tubes off. Does anyone know where i can aquire tow heads? already i am dreading the potential cost. also does anyone know if you can fix the cracks ? on my old vw aircooled engines you could get the head cracks welded and reconditioned. thanks dave

oooh ouch that hurt .. i definigtely did not renmove any push rod tubes on the jp3. bugger wish id known. if i havent already warped the head during this process then they should come off next weekend without half the efforts wasted. so thanks for this info., thanks dave

hi all, after much running of my new jp3, i found a diesel injector dripping so all 3 off for replacement, but i also discovered a trickile of water coming out of heads 1 and 2 joints where the head meets the block, so i presumed it would be okay to pull heads off pretty quickly and swap the gaskets whilst also grinding valves and checking piston rings etc. I was also motivated to do this as the oil had been previously full of water so i figured history of water letting by into oil. Regarding ease of head removal . . .how wrong was i . - wobbled heads with a bar at the top, about a 16th of movement at the bottoms but no lift of head. - turned engine over on electric start several times to the point where each cylinder squealed like a balloon as the air squeezed through, but still not falling off. - not sure if this is just a tough three, or if the things rusted to the studs or something ? - after 3 hours of getting no where wrestling, i am suspecting it probably wasnt that bad with just a minor water leak ! Im actually hoping to find dodgy valves to justify this ball ache ! will athis work ? - I am considering trying to fire the enine with easy start to try and blow the heads off, any advice. - loads of wd40 down the studs. - can anyone advise where i can by a long stud from (the one from the flywheel end that has the extra thick mounting for the pulley) - how much do head gaskets cost. - when i finally get them out is there a way to check condition of rings WITHOUT lifting the pistons out. e.g. timing the oil dropped in there etc. - what other methods of getting the heads off exist ? What can you tie into to lever or jack ? Can you shove a bar in the ports and hope to lever up, with out cracking heads - tried screwdrivering into the corners without success. I am certain others have been stuck here ! please advise. thanks dave "after much running of my new jp3, i found a diesel injector dripping so all 3 off for replacement", i meant off for servicing

Hi all, Ive seen a bubble stove for sale, but it doesnt have a flue. Looks like a flue from the manufacturers will be coming in at around £200. Can you make your own up or use old ones or does it have to be manufacturers kit like with gas boilers ? Thanks Dave

Hi all does any one know if a bubble stove needs manufacturer specific flues, or can you fabricate them some how ? thanks dave

all, thanks a lot for all the help;. progress since last update. - fitted starter motor to wooden beam, but put a supporting beam next to it vertically from beam to roof and used some thread bar to get it adjusted really perfectly to mesh with the fly wheel and it fits a treat and gets engine rolling over. - even when spinning really really quickly its not firing on diesel to get started. It does start with easy start sprayed as a mist near the intake (not much just a fine mist) and it then runs on diesel and runs on 2-3 cylinders. albeit with a misfire on one cylinder. - when it initially started. there was no exhaust. there was so much smoke in the engine room i couldnt see to turn the bloody thing off. later when i fitted the exhaust so much soot went out, may neighbour ron had to stop painting their boats. - the compression less cylinder 2 now has compression after it ran for 20 mins. when it was running it suddenly improved after 10 mins. i think this may have been the point compression returned to the cyl 2 but not certain. perhaps the rings were locked in a fixed position and got loose or perhaps a bit of rust on a valve edge wore off. not sure. - despite an improvement over 20 mins the smoke level coming out the exhaust is high. could this be water in the oil ? or could this be really worn rings ? or is this just the way it is on an old jp3 ? - when i opened the oil pressure nut to the oil pressure guage - water came out. not oil but cold thin water i believe. now after running for 10 min this emulsified grey stuff is coming out if i open the nut so i suspect after several years theres a lot of water in it. An old diesel engine bloke told me not to worry for a 20 minute test, but we agreed before doing any more im doing an oil drain and change. Now compressions returned a bit to the engine, i am going to hope that the misfire on one of the cylinders is possibly due to an injector being stuffed and nothing more serious than that. Questions i wondered if you could help with are: - how much oil needs to be put in the jp3 . theres no diptick. what oil morris 30? - how do you get the oil out ? do i need to use a pump ? could find a drain off and the sumps really inaccessable. - how do you check condition of the injectors. - If the injectors are stuffed then how do you fix them? - Any advice on the above ? - oh and sorry to ask same question again but how much harm will it do to run the engine with a misfire on 2. - also how much work is it to pull the heads off and grind the valves. i have done it a lot on petrol engines. this looks simple. how many hours do you think to do all 3, inc setting the rocker valve clearances ? thanks again for all the excellent advice. Dave

oh and the other question was is it okay to run a lister on 2 out of 3 cylinders ? will it do damage to run this for a 100 miles? thanks again dave