Higgs
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Posts posted by Higgs
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Also found this to do the job. From Toolstation.
I've been using this recently.
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25 minutes ago, Tetlow619 said:
Hello all,
I am looking for advice on how to strip the many layers of paint on the exterior of my boat.
The boat is finished inside so I know I've left it too late for sandblasting.
I've done patches where I've installed new windows and Vents etc where I've stripped away sometimes 8 layers of paint to get back to steel to prime properley. I've used circular wire brushes on drills and heat guns but it seems like it will take me a year or more to strip the entire boat.
Does anyone have any advice on how to strip the paint back to steel?
I am in West London and looking for somewhere to do it/have it done.
Thanks
Jet-Rotary JR-100-EL Renovation Miller - AIRTEC
The machine above takes some care to use, but it will cut through and get to the steel.
Barring that, have about six stiff scrapers kept sharp. 2". Go right down to the steel and sweat. The sound effect should be like a well sharpened wood plane going through wood. I say six scrapers, because constantly sharpening will make the scraper shorter each time. Having six circulating will keep the scraper length reasonably long.
Barring that. 60 grit on an orbital sander. Just work like a robot.
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13 hours ago, Tim Lewis said:
Apart from the one at Moria!Ah, well, bang goes the theory of no locks. It is right at the very end, with a winding hole just before. Boats of more than a little over 60' may have to go through to the basin. The lock has an odd looking gate arrangement, from the air. Having never been there, I'm not quite sure how the set up works, using the 3 sets of gates.
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10 minutes ago, scottish allan said:
I am a new liver board and would like to find the canal network which is the quietest and has the least locks. Can anyone point me in the right direction
The Ashby is a canal without locks. 23 miles, I think.
Ashby Canal | Canal Map (canalrivertrust.org.uk)
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Is it actually legal for a VAT registered business to sell to the public, without including VAT on the transaction? Most people are not familiar with VAT, apart from expecting it to be included in the bill. I've been casually following this thread, and non the wiser.
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2 minutes ago, blackrose said:
That's because it a yacht varnish
A good choice. It's being used on a yacht. But specifically, for an outside purpose.
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10 hours ago, blackrose said:
What do you mean by outdoor varnish exactly? Polyurethane varnish is resistant to moisture but it hates UV light which breaks the polymer chains in the varnish. If you're using varnish around windows or anywhere else subject to UV exposure it should be yacht varnish.
Schooner can be used indoors. Schooner does give UV protection. And, apparently, it's hardwearing. Suitable for yacht environments. Ticks quite a few boxes.
Schooner Yacht Varnish | International (international-yachtpaint.com)
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I had to block CWDF. My email account was filling up, being told I was using a different machine. I always wasn't.
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1 hour ago, NarrowboatTor said:
I wonder if carrying a battery strimmer/brush cutter and charging it off the solar would be appreciated should I then strim/trim areas I stop at?
I mean it's not going to cost me anything apart from a bit of wear and tear on the equipment and being retired I have the time.
Just wondering on the legal consequences as everyone likes to claim something 🤸
If I stopped at an overgrown mooring, it would get the skinhead look. Got tired of using the shears. It's quicker with the electric hedge cutters. Keeping the vegetation down keeps some of the bugs off the boat.
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2 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:
Step 1 ) Ensure the water leak (source of water) around the windows has been fixed.
Or, whatever you do to the wood you will be doing again fairly quickly
Easier said than done, with condensation, and with no double-glazed windows. I'd be inclined to use epoxy on the lower areas of wood at the window. The wood will be able to resist the moister better.
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I would double check and do your research but, it's a problem I'm contemplating on a sailboat I have - how to protect the wood. Varnishing seems to be one of the least resistant, and requires regular maintenance. Oils maybe the answer, but It also requires frequent attention. Some use an epoxy resin to first be absorbed, then varnish for visual aesthetics.
Oxalic acid can be used to remove or reduce staining. A product called the Barkeepers Friend, sold at Dunhelms, contains oxalic acid. Or, it could be obtained via Amazon. Anyway, I'm still mulling over these options.
I have varnished the tiller handle in Schooner. An outdoor varnish. Don't know how it will hold up. Already put on 5 primary coats. Not finished.
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10 minutes ago, blackrose said:
Ok thanks. But what unit is it? That little Victron monitor? I think I'd rather have something a bit bigger so I can see it without my glasses!
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10 hours ago, Justin Smith said:
One should obviously not ordinarily moor up at a water point, but how about this scenario : it is literally starting to go dark and there is no mooring available, either because it is all taken or it is all too shallow. At that time of night it is highly unlikely any boat would want to moor for water. Is it so wrong to moor there so long as one moves first thing in the morning ?
I don't think so, under the circumstances. As long as you're up before the larks fart.
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1 minute ago, magnetman said:
DZR is usually what you want for underwater fittings.
I've recently bought a sailboat and learning. Some of the seacocks are frozen. Can't really justify the cost of going down the bronze route. Trudesign make a plastic assembly, more in the right cost ballpark and not noted for being crap.
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2 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
I think that is where aluminium bronze comes in because it is cheaper. Copper and aluminium, probably plus other metals. More resistant to corrosion than brass, but as aluminium is still used as anodes, it will still corrode, but more slowly than zinc. I am sure it is sued in props and the aluminium part is conveniently left of the documentation. I don't think it would cause a problem for most inland craft.
They sell a CR bass, corrosion resistant, and it is perhaps made as you suggest, with an aluminium percentage. And yes, the saltwater environment would be harsher than freshwater.
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16 minutes ago, Bacchus said:
Good and valid points. I am not a metallurgist, maybe the term is used generically for any leaching from an alloy? I am going on what the surveyor says which is
Dezincification is what causes problem in seagoing vessel that have seacocks made of brass these days, and not the better metal, bronze.
Bronze - copper and tin. Brass - copper and zinc. Bronze seacocks can cost in the region of £300.00, so brass is more common, and cheaper. Corrosion resistant, but still not up to the level of bronze.
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I remember him as a decent speaker and humanitarian. I think his avatar was of Karl Marx. RIP
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Disgraceful and incompetent supervision by the Trust.
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1 hour ago, Tacet said:
Someone at the Torygraph has used a stock picture. The couple shown neither live aboard nor pay £1100 pcm to moor. Come to that, I very much doubt £130k was paid for the boat.
At that price, it is more than double what its worth is. A link to the article would be a useful addition to the thread.
Paywall, can't read it.
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2 minutes ago, Puffling said:
Definitely leave it on. It's a good sign that the scrapes show white and not orange. That would be rust.
It shows the primer is still doing its job of bonding to the metal. When the blacking on my boat has scraped off, half the time I see grey primer but the other patches go ginger and need treatment for rust (Fertan).
Yes. If the white is remaining through the scrapes, it is at least likely durable and hardy.
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3 minutes ago, aristorias said:
We have a liverpool boat 15 years old in fairly good nick.
I have noticed though that scrapes on the hull show as white under the blacking. As she will be due for blacking next year I wonder what this indicates and will it be a problem?
Obviously if possible I would like the white layer completely removed before several coats of blacking are applied and this would be done by the boatyard as my knees are knackered at 73.
Unless the white coating is going to be incompatible with anything you propose to overcoat it with, why remove it, if it isn't failing and still protects the hull?
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15 minutes ago, Midnight said:
https://narrowboatworld.com/15411-chaos-on-he-trent-mersey-canal
We are heading that way later this week so if anyone is in that area please let me know what's going on. I haven'y had any notices.
Beyond Dallow lock is Shobnall marina. If you cannot find a schedule on the CRT site, I'd try giving the marina a call. They may be able to help clarify.
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I've found reducing the voltage can do the job. You can but try. I know when the battery is run low, the lights do. Have used lowering the voltage on LED strips.
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I think having a bar welded, to extend the sacrificial ledge, is a practical solution. It's work I'm considering with my 1983 boat. The quality of welder is important.
I'd choose an extension, rather than D bar. It requires one weld, creates less heat transference into the boat. But I still think some interior prep would be necessary, to avoid fires. My bilge is only 2", so it doesn't leaves a big depth of bilge from the internal wood structures and some rockwool insulation.
No expert.
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Exterior Painting Advice
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted · Edited by Higgs
These, again from Toolstation are very good. Prep Heavy Duty Scraper 100mm | Toolstation
Have found this very satisfying, going through some layers of paint on a GRP boat. With care. Works much better, if the previous painter hadn't prep well.