dontpanic

Good point . I’ll check it out when I get it for off grid cooking. It’ll still be worth me having for when I’m on hook up to avoid using gas

Hi Tony, don’t fear on my account. In the winter I’m on hook up and cook mostly on my multi fuel stove. In the other seasons I’m off grid with no fridge. I use very little electric. I’ve lived in a boat for over 10 years so got the whole minimum usage pretty sussed. I will be retaining my gas for the time being until I’ve checked out how much I can do on the induction.

https://www.outdoorworlddirect.co.uk/brand/vango/ Thank you for this thread all. Interesting. Solar is such gold and I hope it’ll get me independent of gas.

Thanks Alan, I think my system will be fine then. I will only be using the hob for quick bursts of energy to bring food to the boil etc. long cooking I do in a slow cooker or on multifuel stove. I have a battery reader so I can keep an eye on how my system is doing. I am powered by a 120w solar panel (soon to be upgraded to 250w) which I have used a slow cooker and electric kettle on. Not at the same time and I pick what I cook and when according to the sunshine so if I’m careful it’s all doable. In the winter I cook mostly by multifuel stove.

Thanks Alan, understood. Will only be running one hob (800w) whilst off grid.

Hello forum, I am thinking of buying an induction hob/s. But need some advice please on wattage. Can I run a single ring/hob of a double induction cooker on a 1000w inverter please? Each hob is 800 Watts per hob (Max power 1600W) . I will use the two hobs when I’m on hook up and one when I’m off grid. Wasn’t sure if the combined wattage of the hobs meant that the appliance would be rated at 1600w and therefore would not run off my inverter. I’m sure my question says it all. I really don’t know how all this works. Your help would be much appreciated.

Thank you all. Thank you Alan for the link I’ll have a look and hopefully that’ll have me sorted. 😊

Very interesting thank you both. MPPT certainly sounds worth it. Now the question is which size? I have tried Victrons calculator but can’t find a controller for 250watt mono for 12v.

Thanks Mtb, got it. Photo of controller label.

Thanks Mtb I will try again it’s in an awkward spot

Thanks Bilso I don’t think it’s a mppt controller as it doesn’t say it is. The spec label on the side is a bit blurred but here is a picture and one from the back of my new (secondhand) solar panel too. None of which means much to me.

Hi Peter I’m only using one solar panel so I won’t have to worry about relaying thank you

Hi Tony, thank you and please don’t apologise for being solar mad! I’ve simply don’t have the roof space to accommodate both and a good friend will be able to make use of it and add it to his collection 😆.

David thank you so much I’m so relieved to get an answer to this question that’s been with me for months. Honestly it’s made my day. I can now go forward with my plans to get more power coming into my boat. Thanks again , melanie

Hi All, I’ve currently got a 100 watt solar panel with a 20amp controller . I’ve been lucky enough to be offered a 250 watt panel to replace my 100 watt. Question is what size controller do I need or is my 20amp enough? I can’t find any information is short in the subject hence turning to folks that might know. help much appreciated , melanie

Thanks Pete for all your advise really appreciated. Mel

Thanks Pete will do. If I am able to get on to hook up and charge my batteries via my battery charger about once a week should I switch between charge voltages or stick with solar and alt as that will my main source of charge? Many thanks Mel

My batteries are 2 x long life, deep cycle, AGM sealed 125Ah batteries. I am currently using a 12w solar panel that I clip on to the batteries with crocodile clips. I am intending to buy a 100w solar panel for a permanent set up, hopefully in the next few weeks. Battery capacity 250Ah Charged voltage 13.2v tail current 04.0% Charged detection time 03 mins Charge efficiency factor 095% Thanks Pete

Hello Smiley Pete I have taken a reading/snapshot of my Battery monitor whilst I had my 2000w inverter on charging my DAB radio and my 12w solar panel attached to the batteries but it was dark when I took the reading . I was quite excited that for the first time I had a Current reading and a TTG reading. I couldn't find all the readings you listed but have listed what I could find on the BMV600S. If it would be possible to check whether it is set up correctly from them that would be fantastic . I have two AGM 125 Ah batteries for leisure and one AGM 90Ah starter battery for the engine. Battery capacity 250Ah (2 x leisure batteries) v 12.75v volts I -0.96A (current in and out) CE -4.2Ah (consumed energy) SOC 99.1% TTG 240h (time to go) Historical readings H1 -7.9Ah (The depth of the deepest charge) H2 -4.2Ah (The depth of the last discharge) H3 0.0Ah (depth of the average discharge) H4 0 (number of charge cycles, counted as below 65% to above 90%) H5 0 (number of full discharges) H6 15.7Ah (cumulative amp hours drawn from the battery) H7 12.25v (minimum battery voltage) H8 14.84v (max battery voltage) H9 1.34 (number of days since the last full charge) H10 1 (number of times the BMV has automatically synchronised) H11 0 (number of low voltage alarms) H12 0 (number of high voltage alarms) Sorry if the list is OTT but thought it might all help. Thank you I will take a look at the thread. Thank you Alan yes it's good to get a feel for these things and finding out what is normal helps! Thank you in advance Smiley pete for you help

Brill, great replies. I have been in doubt that my monitors SOC read out was incorrect as it was reading 100% when the volts were around the 12.8 volts mark rather than 14v. I am feeling much more confident in it after your replies. Thank you. Am I right in understanding that I should give my Victron energy battery monitor some time to settle in before I conclude if it is working correctly? It was fitted about 10 days ago. Some of the readings are not what I expect for example TTG and current have not shown a reading or at least I have not seen one!

You did the right thing in my opinion in walking away. I had a survey done on the first boat I fell love with and the surveyor said not to touch it with a barge poll. One thing that the surveyor pointed out was the engine was raw cooled and that it would not suit were I intended to live which was on the weedy lodes of the fen. He saved me a lot of pain. Got a boat that I has suited me well though not half so pretty. I have seen some awful boats on the river that people have fallen in love with, boats with hardly any gunnel to get your feet on. No points to fix ropes. poor access to the bow to get the bow rope on etc. INMHO the head is a good tool to protect the heart!! Good luck on your hunt

The State of Charge graph that Smiley Pete posted earlier in this thread has thrown me. The graph shows a 12 volt battery at 100% at 12.73! I assumed a full charge for a 12v battery would have been 14 volts as my 'maximum battery voltage' read out from my Victron Energy Monitor has given a reading above 14v (14.84) and the gauge on my volts meter gauge on my engine panel goes up to that. Can anyone explain what I am missing? I have recently had the battery monitor fitted so I am trying to get a handle on the dark art!

Hi Boaties, Life is good living on the water but a problem I haven't found a solution to is receiving mail/post, without involving other people, and/or it being sent from pillar to post. I have a mooring which is not to be used as a postal address but live 10 mins away from a depot and a post office. I have run out of restante time with the post office, I was wondering if anyone had been given some arrangement with a depot that allows them to open up a box without having a residential address in the area. I would like to hear from others what solution they have found. Hope to hear from you

Thanks, your a star