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Posts posted by Supertramp
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simple question.....
The 3.5Kw Travel Power box has a small rocker switch at the bottom centre.
it doesnt light up despite having red and green windows on it, and I cant see any change in function whatever the switch state.
The online instruction manual sites all seem to have a later model than mine, and no mention is made of this switch.
What does it do?
What should it be set on?
Can anyone help?
Thanks
Tony
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I was concerned about the 'dangers' of a pump failing on the back boiler circuit, so have rigged a couple of relays and thermostats to switch in the 240v pump, or the 12v pump if the mains fails.
I've also added an extra thermostatic relay set at high temp to force the 12v pump to operate, - this covers the 240v pump failing internally.
Sure - any system can fail, but adding a few extra backup steps can help lengthen the odds.
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Be aware Kev, one of your close neighbours had a similar problem, and called BT out, and they charged her, as it seems the cables on the pontoons are provided by BWML, not BT, so if the fault is found on this cable or the bollard socket, BT will charge for the callout and still not fix it.
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Before you bury it....To clarify what Matty said earlier,
The copper strip is purely a safety mechanism, You say the fan has failed to work since you 'bent' it. - thats possibly because the strip now holds the base of the fan slightly off the stove top - even a millimetre will be enough to stop enough heat transfer.
Try bending the strip back into the grove, or remove completely with a large screwdriver and some brute force. - once the base plate sits flat again, the fan should work fine.
(If your fire ever gets red hot - remember the ecofan has no safety device, - in reality - mine never gets that hot )
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Kev -
I used to have a landline connection at Apsley for the broadband, but found it cheaper (and faster) to use 'three's unlimited data.
The signal is excellent in the marina, download speeds often around 12MB, far better than the phoneline.
Uploading was no issue either, I needed it for work, and regularly exceed 25GB's a month.
Perhaps look at ditching the landline altogether.
Tony
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Have a nice photo of it, but I've lost the will to live after trying for over half an hour to work out how to show pictures.
I now have a photobucket account for my sins, but its either the 'wrong extension' or too large' for the forum.
Just shut your eyes, - and imagine a picture of a tree across the canal.
job done
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As bizzard says, a back boiler can get nasty if the pump fails on a 'non' syphon system.
I have the 240v Wilo pump, works great and is virtually silent.
As a backup, I have a Jabesco 12v pump in line as well.
My dog is sometimes on the boat alone with the fire and back boiler hot. - so to protect her -
I have added a couple of relays and remote thermostatic switches which ensure the 240v pump runs when required, but if the mains fails or is unavailable, the 12v pump switches in.
An additional separate safety circuit switches in the 12v pump if the boiler reaches a higher temp, - this covers the 240v pump failing.
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I would link them in series, and keep the voltage high, ( = lower current - smaller cables, less loss). This will also allow the controller to do it's best for you on cloudy days.
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Thanks guys, - wasnt sure if producing power with nowhere for it to go might not be good for them. I read the MPPT controller has dire warnings about not connecting panels if no batteries are connected.
Im secure as far as theft, so onto the roof they go just in time for the monsoon forecast for later
Tony
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I've recently got a pair of large panels, but dont have time to wire them up for a few weeks due to work commitments.
They are in the boat at the moment, but take up a lot of room, I'd like to put them on the roof, but not wire them in. Will the sun beating down on panels that are not connected to anything damage them? - or should I try and cover them over with a tarp or similar.
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If you have lots of 2.5mm - why not double it up - use all 3 cores joined together (Twin+earth) for the positive, and another similar for the negative?,
This may help with future core failures, as 2.5mm T+E cable is solid core, and not so tolerant of movement over time. Ideally you should use stranded.
ETA - re-read you OP - not sure if it's 2.5mm T+E or 2.5mm singles, either way, - double it up !
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This is Kings Orchard Marina, built by Pridewater Estates, who have marinas at Fazeley, Tamworth and Grove, Leighton Buzzard.
The opening date was June 3rd, however this may have slipped a little it seems
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Turner and Hooch?
Correct! - excellent film
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dOvot1s7OOY
quote happens between 32 and 34 mins in.
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Before having my own dog, I had a couple of occasions where a four legged visitor would hop on my boat.
I now think it is something that dogs sometimes get wrong, as my border collie occasionally misses our boat completely, and thinks its fine to board the next one.
I've corrupted the well known phrase from a film about a dog and a policeman - "that is NOT your boat"
It works well, - she understands instantly!
(perhaps she's seen the film)
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Yes, I have one circulating my CH when heated from the engine via a plate heat exchanger. However, I have only installed it recently and it has only run for perhaps 20 hours so far (only on when engine running), but seems fine at the moment although obviously it is made a little cheaply and wouldn't stand much physical abuse. I took the view that if it packed up, I hadn't lost much! It is designed for continuous use with solar heating systems however, and the max flow maybe less than the Jabsco, but probably adequate for a moderately sized CH system.
ETA you can get the 11 ltrs/min version for another £3, which is close to the Jabsco's 12.5 l/min. The ports of the Solarproject pump are conveniently BSP threads so no rubber pipe with jubilee clips required, but the bore is quite small so I guess the 11 l/min ones have a pretty high fluid velocity which might create some gurgling noises!
Thanks Nick, I've ordered the 6w one, as I don't want a high flow rate.
The DC-DC converter for high / low settings is also an idea I hadn't considered. - good to get other peoples views!
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Thanks Nick & Arthur, some ideas there.
The solar project pump looks almost too good to be true for that money, have you any experience of them in actual use?
Arthur, - I was trying to save wasting the heat in a resistor, but I agree, - its a tried and test method.
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My 12v CH pump is very noisy, such that I couldnt sleep with it running.
(I have a near silent 240v standard domestic pump also inline for use with shore power)
Having already tried flexible mounts, rubber hose links etc, I have now thought of slowing the motor down.
12V-40V 10A Pulse Width Modulation PWM DC Motor Speed Control Switch Governor UK
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121008731849
Would this work with a standard Jabesco pump? (59510-0012)
or could I cause more problems than I aim to solve?
Tony
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Hello,
Does anyone know what BWML do with the proof of residence documents required as part of the application process for their non-residential moorings? Do they just keep them on record or do they actually forward them to the local council?
Thanks
Arvind
Morning Arvind, -
Can you tell me what 'forms' they are asking for? I'm looking at this option, and would like to know what documents might be needed.
Many thanks in advance
Tony
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Does anyone know if having a full amateur radio licence (Ham radio)is acceptable?
Or does it have to be a 'specific marine' course and license?
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Thanks for the input guys, I had looked at the ionising dehumidifies, but would rather not go down that road if I can help it.
A friend has offered to lend me a simple ioniser for a week, guess that's the best way to find out
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Hmmm - well the cold tank is just behind the boiler but of course the feed runs all the way to the back where the Eber was so is there any reason why the pump can't be at the opposite end to the stove? A bit like this:
<Stern--Header+pump-----Rad----Rad----Rad----Rad----Stove--Bow>
What sort of pump would be the right sort of thing for this please?
Thanks
David
My back boiler is pumped to 3 rads. I have a 240v standard domestic heating circulation pump on a pipe stat set at 30c, its really quiet and cheap to run,(mostly on shoreline or inverter). - however, there is also a 12v pump in circuit (Jabesco i think) attached to a 2nd pipe stat set to 60c. Both pipe stats are on the top exit pipe from the boiler. This gives me a fall-back in case of mains failure to the primary pump, and a backup should the stove get too hot.
Both pumps are free flowing if not on, so don't restrict the flow.
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If you believe all the adverts, we should all have Ionisers pumping out billions of negative ions to help us be healthier and reduce the pollution in our homes.
However....
Although I did have one of these contraptions many many years ago in a flat, I cant say I noticed any life changing improvements.
Does anyone have any experience of these modern ionisers? - would it make any difference to my boats environment?
I do find it difficult to concentrate on work at the laptop for several hours, (tho this is unlikely to be 'cured' by a few ions lol)
or is a bit like the ecofan, some love it - some hate it
Red/Green switch on Travel Power box
in Boat Equipment
Posted
If only everything in life was that simple.....
Thanks for the now 'blindingly obvious' answer, I must admit to only looking at it without the engine running, and of course - switching it makes no difference then.
An on/off switch makes perfect sense
suitably embarrassed now.
Tony