cobra

cheers for the speedy response, will hope all is ok but sods law it wont be. Thought the idea of testing with air was it was easier to mop up than water but than again a water leak is easier to see than an air leak!

Going to be re-filling water tank and from what I've read I need to pressurise the accumulator to about 20psi. My maybe very stupid question is - do I do this before filling with water? Any advice very welcome. Also I think I remember reading somewhere on here about testing for leaks with air, is this done via the accumulator or would I need to get some kind of adaptor to fit onto my 15mm pipework? Thanks again

Thanks for all the advice, yes Sue I do cook by gas so will be no practicle problem to run fridge off gas. Will get it connected and give it a go. What do I need to consider in way of ventilation/location? Result with the electricity Alan - but I would keep quite about it!

Thanks Alan that's really usefull and explains in detail what I have been told ( He said it looked just like the Electrolux) Was going to ask why they are designed to run on 12v, but I think your explaination of caravan use has covered that! Do you run your fridge on gas? Must admit I don't feel comfortable doing that but I'm sure many people do. Also when you say not thermostatically controlled does that mean connected to 240v it would consume power continually? Thought it was a result buying a boat with a 3 way fridge but now I'm not so sure. Hmmm....Thanks Blackrose may have to do the same and just get used to the idea of flames and fridges!

Any advice? My boat has a a Waeco fridge that is powered by 240, 12v and gas. I wish to move this and thought I would caculate the 12v cable size required but there is no information anywhere on the fridge to tell me the consumption, model number.... nothing. A search on the internet has not helped. Anyone got one of these, and if so how efficient is it to run off 12v? I have been told it will be a massive drain on batteries and would be better to run on gas. Any opinions welcome

yes or block the bilge pump.

In no way was I suggesting using it as an alternative to proper insulation - just open to new ideas ( or maybe just gullible ! ) may give the addative a go. Andy Ps. Urban myth?? Next you'll be telling me you can't get high smoking dried banana skin.

nb Innisfree, have read it is pretty thick. What kind of finnish does it give - textured? Is that why cundensation didn't dribble? Can buy it as a base coat that you then paint over with another paint. Thought this sounded a good idea. My immediate thoughts were also 'Snake oil' especially when I read it had been developed by NASA. The same people that spent millions developing a pen that could write in zero gravity - when all they had to take was a pencil Yes, I also read about the americans painting tanks with it to fool heat seeking missiles. Powerful stuff!

All very interesting! Viewed BS8511 today and as you reminded me Richard it is not a regulation, but rather a guide to a good way to do things. Will follow what I feel is sensible, which really boils down to the Points covered in Waterways Q&A as mentioned above. Agree with you Quebec, The whole idea behind all this is to prevent another tragic accident. Surely the BSS should incorporate the standard into their guide. Andy Ps. Quebec - I will now be looking up BS 666 pps.Thanks deletedaccount will ring them

Should have got all he had and flogged them on here! Thanks for that, I have a similar place close to me. Will pay them a visit and see if I can get a good deal. been looking through old threads on here and get the impression there are a lot of people confused like me over building a hearth / surround. would be great if someone who has done this and has a good knowledge of the relevant regs / standards could give some of the basic requirements

A friend suggested I look at insulating paint for painting inside my boat. Has anyone tried this ( all sounds a bit too good to be trueMy link)

Just read the story of 'Lindy Lou' very sad, my sympathies to everyone involved. Reinforces the importance of getting this right. Richard had a search of Backerboard and its fire rated as A1 and the Aquapanal as 0. Does this Give any indication of their suitablity for use as stove surround material? Thanks very much for info on libraries, will be checking mine tomorrow. Also this may be a really stupid question but why are Bitish Standards so expensive???!! Andy Ps.Vermiculite Fireboard looks good (not sure about good price!)But before anyone else says it 'could be worth every penny'

Thanks for that Richard, sounds like you have answered this query before! Will take at look at John opies. Thats really interesting that neither the RCD or BSS require you to work in accordance with 8511. I take it this is because it's a code of practice rather than a regulation? I assumed it was a requirement. As for reading it- going to contact local library, think I read on here that is possible (??) Think I may contact the guy who surveyed the boat ( who is also a BSS exaniner ) and ask his advice as no doubt I will be using him when I need a new BSS. I'm new to all this, but as you say things could change Andy

Looking at constructing the hearth and surround to my stove. Masterboard seems to be frequentley mentioned material but took a trip to wickes today and was recommended ' Thermal Aquapanel'. Topps tiles suggested ' Tile backerboard' anyone used either of these? Also would like to take a look at the relevant BS. What number is it? Thanks for any help on this subject

Thanks everyone some really good advice. will have a think about lifting ply and fitting celotex and then underlay on ply as you have done marmaduke.The more insulation the better I assume and dont want to lay something 20mm thick over existing floor as at 6' - 4'' I need all the headroom I can get. Bat and frog, had a quick look at your link - really interesting I'm sure it will give me a lot of answers and looks like you have created a wonderful boat. Another concern I have is I'm completely re designing the interior layout. My original thinking was to get the floor down first and then install kitchen units, and free standing furniture elsewhere. Would it be sensible to place these items in position before fitting floor and thus losing access to ballast for repositioning????