Ryeland
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Posts posted by Ryeland
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I had the same experience, apart from the leak not starting suddenly. I replaced the shaft bearing, a rubber cutlass type in my case, prop shaft and seal in a few hours with a single day pull out on Stafford Boat Club slipway. And yes, moving the prop shaft slightly gave a temporary improvement.
Richard
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Open today, asked the workers whether they intended to close it later in the week, they said 'no'. Minor annoyance that one of the top paddles was fenced off for no apparent reason, very difficult to make a level and open the top gate. Needed four people!
Richard
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I have a Volvo Penta seal very similar to the RMTA one, but no hose. Same as Jen-in-wellies. A cloth tied round the shaft stops enough water to allow the gland to be loosened, and the shaft to be inspected. I found the gland had worn grooves in the shaft, admittedly after several thousand hours. A slight movement of the shaft in the coupling improved leakage temporarily. I ended up replacing the shaft, cutless bearing and gland on a one day slipway pull out at Stafford Boat Club. If the prop shaft can be slid back far enough without fouling the rudder, just the gland could easily be replaced with a cloth round the shaft. My new gland came with a sleeve to allow it to be easily slid onto the shaft without damaging the seal lips.
The silicone grease really needs injecting between the two seal lips. A very fine tube on a syringe with an angle cut on the end allows the end of the tube to be manoeuvred past the front seal lip. Probably not a problem on the RMTA gland with the grease access on the top.
Richard
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Yes, I've already noted it
Richard
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I have a PRM120 d2 which you are welcome to have if it's any use to you. Ahead clutches gone but otherwise OK. Located near Gloucester or could take to Hatherton marina in the next week.
Richard
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I found that the way to solve the problem was dual vents, one at each end of the tank. These provide an air flow through the tank, which encourages aerobic bacteria. They break down the contents. Anaerobic bacteria cause the smells. I just use bio washing liquid pods, two after a pump out.
Richard
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Beware, I suspect that the Dyson power supply is in fact a lithium charger, and replacing it with any old 26v psu wouldn't do the battery any good. My Dyson charges happily during our cruising time with the inverter on.
Richard
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What made the biggest difference for me was to seal the edge of the engine cover board when it is down by a strip of butyl rubber foam.
Richard
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All my Caldwell windows are fitted with m4 countersunk head brass machine screws into drilled and tapped holes. Takes a bit longer but makes a good job. You can nip them up easily if any leaks occur due to the butyl rubber strip losing it's 'springyness'.
Richard
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Teddesley do have a crane.
Richard
ETA the name of the company is Bourne Boat Builders
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If its a Caldwells window they don't hold stock glass, and its a long way to Wigan! The last time it happened to me, Calwells gave me the exact dimensions, and a local supplier made the new glass in a couple of days.
Richard
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5 minutes ago, dmr said:
Epoxy is good stuff, its weakness appears to be that it does not stick too well to some surfaces and tends to lift off in sheets. I suspect the Vactan is at least part of the problem, its a second best fix when you can't do a proper job and probably not a brilliant primer.
If you can get almost to bare metal (and a needle gun should do that) then apply a surface tolerant epoxy primer direct to steel, after suitable cleaning. Otherwise I have used Red Owatrol and then a couple of coats of bilge paint (Danboline or similar) and that has been good for 7 or 8 years so far. The red Owatrol took several days to dry.
When you say Red Owatrol, which Owatrol product is it exactly please?
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A hardwood wedge in one side. Sized to hold the glass roughly half open.
Richard
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It's simply that there is a theoretical possibility of an issue as you described, so why not just remove the possibility of the situation occurring? I do think that sometimes we over think things!
Richard
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Just put some plastic sheet between the aerial clamp and the pole, and stop worrying!
Richard
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A bath trap on the sink will get the pipe as high as possible, higher even than an elbow.
Richard
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I have used Anderson connectors, and the contacts have been tinned copper, so I soldered them.
Richard
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AVO were based in Dover IIRC, I remember seeing the factory when I was working down there.
Richard
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Never had any issues along that stretch. The footpath is a public right of way, so shouldn't be blocked.
Richard
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When I had a PRM120, I gave up trying to get everything perfectly adjusted in both forward and reverse. I made sure that the forward adjustment was best as it most used. I also got into the habit of taking the control beyond the idle position every time I put it into gear, so that all the slack was taken up, and the gearbox lever was against the stop. I still do it even though I have changed the box for a 150!
Richard
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The system does rely on boats having a light that can be seen from the far end. I followed one through Preston Brook tunnel yesterday which just had a small bulb on the end of a piece of wire, no proper headlamp.
Richard
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I'm pleased I made it through about 1.45 then!
Richard
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15 minutes ago, nicknorman said:
I think the important point is whether the temperature is under the control of the thermostat, or not. If it gets to 90 at 1500 and is still at 90 after a while at 1800 or whatever, then the thermostat is doing its job and all is fine. If it goes over 90 when you run the engine faster than 1500 then the thermostat is already wide open and there is a lack of adequate cooling.
As others have said, also corroborate the gauge reading with another thermometer. If it really is at 90C and you have a calorifier then the hot water coming out of the tap is going to be at 90c which is a bit dangerous. If so, I’d try to get a cooler thermostat ie around 80C
Depends on whether there is a blending valve on the calorifier to limit the water temperature to the taps. If there is, you don't have a problem!
Richard
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I didn't bother trying to fix to the cabin sides. I built out from the below gunwale battens to secure the bottoms, and used a ceiling batten hard up against the tops. I think if was doing it again, I would do the same but add PU40 sealant as well. I wouldn't like to rely on sealant and the primer, it relies on both the primer bond to the steel and the sealant to the primer.
Richard
South Oxford Stoppages
in General Boating
Posted
Nine people in high vis standing by the lock this morning, hopefully some of them will finish the work today.
Richard