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Paringa

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Posts posted by Paringa

  1. Just been at this problem myself this morning...

     

    As has been said cable lengths over 5M and you need an active cable, about 20 quid for 15M. I have put my 3 dongle in a plastic casing used for mobile aerials on the top of my aerial mast. All seems fine at the moment although having done all this today i have not seen any significant gains in reception, although it is a lot neater than hanging it out the window...

     

    I never tried the additional aerial from the dongle itself...

     

    Perhaps i will be trying it later in the year when the heat or the frost kills my present solution!

  2. I do have RCD's...

     

    But as i have said i wonder why if the gen could be modified in the way suggested - and i do not know enough about electrickery to answer this - why have Vetus not built it that way in the first place? And indeed by implication making it as "safe" as possible?

     

    I have however heard back from the manufacturer and they have concluded:

     

    The problem is that the frequency should be exactly 50 Hz and if this is not the case, what could happen with the high speed GHS6.2, a modern washing machine cannot cope with that. So you should try to get an exact frequency of 50 Hz, if this appears to be not possible, you have to look at a bigger generator with a better voltage regulator. Other option is to run the machine on a good inverter or Combi charger/inverter.

     

    An older washing machine still without electronics would also be a “solution”.

     

    So really i am no further forward, quite where i go from here i do not know - certainly not a bigger gen and not by Vetus! Probably into secondhand washers!!!!

     

    Going up top now to enjoy the weather....Thanks for your input

  3. That is more than i can undertake...and i wonder if it were possible why Vetus did not do it in the first place? The reservation i have is i could spend hundreds on getting the gen checked by a good electrician only to find it is not possible...and still needing another washer.

     

    The suggestion of an expensive - but at least working - yacht washer designed to run off not so clean power is looking more attractive by the day...

  4. You said in your post that you ran it off the inverter, not the genny, if so try it directly from the genny, I suspect your inverter is too small.

     

    I tried to run it off the gen but it would not work...tried to run it off of the inverter but not happy on that...and ran it off shore power to confirm the machine did actually work. You are right the inverter is only just big enough, but running it off the gen is the problem i would like to sort if i can, and i suspect i will have to buy a new washer that does run with the Vetus gen...

  5. Thanks guys...

     

    The Vetus has so far proved reliable - it only had 3 hours on it when i got it - but leaked coolant which was a result of Vetus marinising a very nice Mitsubishi engine...Ie Spraying it bright orange and fitting over-priced hoses without tightening them up! Sorted now...fingers crossed it stays that way...

     

    If anyone has recommendations for a machine that works with a Vetus gen then please let me know...and watch out for a little used Zanussi on Ebay!

  6. I used the immersion heater...which if i turned on and off did fool the machine into filling, but as soon as it went to turn the drum nothing further.

     

    I will try a motorised device see if that does it...

     

    The manual does say you can adjust the engine speed to get the frequency correct which at the moment is 50Hz and 220v with no load which is not far off of the 51.5Hz the manual states. I am loath to fiddle with the speed as all my other equipment runs 100%...

  7. Hello all...

     

    I recently bought a washing machine a Zanussi ZWC1300W - the compact one - to run off of my Vetus 6Kva generator. The problem is it doesn't!!! If i plug into shore power the machine is fine. If i run it from my inverter - an 1800W Powermaster - it tries to spin but fails, tries agin, fails and resets the machines cycle. I really need to run it off of the gen anyway as my battery bank will be soon ruined. All my other equipment, PC, TV is fine off the gen...just this b"£$%y washer sitting here doing nothing. I have searched the forum and no doubt it has come up before but i wonder if there are any solutions?

     

    I suspect it is the output of the generator not being "clean" enough to run the washer. I have tried adding loads to the gen to no avail...

     

    Any ideas?

  8. Was it a lumpy trip on the Thames? If your boat has not been used on a waterway where you encounter waves the crud of years gets stirred up and cloggs the filters. It is a common problem for boats that rarely see the sea...

     

    Have a look at your primary fuel filter and i suspect it will have gunk in it.

     

    Just to add some fuel will get through as it is most likely partially blocked...

  9. I use a Pela oil extractor...Very simple and effective, robust but not exactly cheap at 40 or 50 quid forget now...No doubt there are others that do exactly the same. But a vacuum oil extractors is what you need.

  10. You will be fine at that age...

     

    The only concern with outboards is when they are not used for a while - and that means about a year plus - the petrol can form a gum which causes problems with jets in the carb. If you are leaving the engine for a while just unplug the fuel line on your last journey and let it run until it stops, then you know the carb is as empty as it can be...

  11. Had a chat with an EA patrolman on the Thames and they are tightening up on licence evasion after recent changes in legislation; now if you have a boat and it is displacing water ie On the water you have to pay even if it never comes out onto the river or goes through a lock. It is expected to be challenged by owners with boats that never leave the marina...quite why you would have a boat that never leaves the marina is beyond me...but the EA say if the marina has access to the river and the river is controlled by them - levels etc - then that will be their position...we will see.

     

    Back to topic, having been registered with the EA and BW before i think the calculation by the EA is fairer - length by beam in square meters...I however have a 49x10 barge on the Thames registered on a Gold licence, Number and Name however the Thames uses a naming system, how do you get around another boat having the same name? They can be quite ridiculous about these things here...

  12. I checked the PRV and it appeared to be clear of debris but seeing as it was off i replaced it anyway...

     

    I emailed the manufacturer of my pump - Floking - and asked if it were possible for the pump to produce more than its rated 3bar pressure and their reply was that it could if the pressure switch was at fault. The pump was 7 years old so i bought a new one.

     

    All is well again...

     

    Thanks very much for all your help.

  13. After having a night thinking about this problem and listening to the advice on here I am inclined to agree that the accumulator is at fault:

     

    When things are running fine all is quiet, then you open a tap and the pressure drop in the system causes the diaphragm in the accumulator like a balloon to deflate and that pressure drop then calls the pump in...re-inflating and pressurising the system up to it's set limit and then cutting out is that correct?

     

    Now what seems to happen is the pressure in the system drops and the pump comes in, only now it just doesn't stop, it carries on pumping increasing pressure until the relief valve on the calorifier does it's job and dumps the excess over the side, or i vent it myself or open a tap.

     

    I don't have a pressure gauge to hand today to give you the details of what is happening under normal conditions and when it is throwing a wobbler but when i do i will post them. But is there anything i can do to get by? Pump it up? Let pressure out? Or do these symptoms suggest i need to buy and fit a new one...

     

    Thanks in anticipation

  14. Thanks for the posts and info so far...

     

    It is a Surecal and what i failed to mention was that as the valve vents over the side it is not just water it's air too...now i don't want to put a direction on this but i am wondering if the system got too hot and it boiled the water filling the calorifier with air? It did get rather a lot of use over the cold spell. The valve also "hisses" when i give it a twist - this is the PRV on the cal - now that must mean air is present? The system is working fine apart from this. No leaking pipes. Steady pressure of 1 bar on the system. The accumulator is only trying to replace the lost water and so IMHO i don't believe is at fault.

     

    I will monitor it over the next few days and get back with any additional info.

     

    Keep the ideas coming and thanks to all those that have contributed so far...

  15. My hot water systems pressure relief valve has started to operate periodically when i run the heating...It could be doing exactly what it is meant to which is relieving the pressure in the system if it gets too high, venting and dumping the excess over the side. The thing is it is doing this then stopping every half a second for as long as i leave it making a hell of a drumming sound as it does it, open closed, open closed, etc. The water pump then kicks in and the cycle starts over and over. If i were to leave it it would just dump the contents of my water tank into the river!

     

    I can stop it by opening a hot or cold tap which i believe just takes pressure away from the hot water system and doesn't prove anything. Also by turning the pressure relief valve and venting more over the side until i presume the pressure drops and all is calm....for a while...

     

    Apart from this all seems to be well with the system. It continues to work and was working perfectly well before this came along.

     

    My question is what do you think could be causing the valve to operate?

     

    What can i do to prove the fault?

     

    What can do to fix it?

     

    Any ideas received with thanks.

  16. Have a look on ebay at "future green lights" shop. I replaced all my G4 halogens with the SMD's in warm white in various styles and shapes. They give a really good light - nice and bright. For me the selling point was the low power consumption which outweighed the initial high cost, but then it is cheaper if you buy in bulk. I bought a couple and decided what i wanted then re-ordered from him. They also run up to 30v and also have some spike protecter if memory serves...anyway he was no problem to deal with and i would recommend.

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