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Posts posted by 1agos
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Thanks for your input guys.
Update.... the inlet manifold came of without disturbing the fuel lines, filter housing had to come of to slide the manifold out. Been busy with a hook for a few hours to get almost all the glove out from a valve. so will put back together and give it a good run to burn of the rest of the debris after I have sourced a new gasket, the old one was damaged when removed.
Cheers all.
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Thanks Tony, I'll take the manifold off to take a look first. Do I have to remove injector lines first to remove it.
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It's a Vetus 42 engine, I tried to have a look down the intake with a endoscope to no avail. Would the glove go into the fuel pump at all. If not I may do the run it and burn it approach. I looked on line and a suggestion was use acetone which would disolve the glove but that was on a petrol engine.
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I put a nitrile glove over the intake to stop debris when I removed the air filter while I did the fan belts. Started the engine and realised after it started getting lumpy which was almost immediately that the glove had sucked into the intake. I know, I'm a numpty...but what is the best way to remove it from the engine.
Thanks in advance to anyone who has experience of this problem
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I was once convinced I needed a new gearbox because of the noise, turned out to be the drive plate.
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This guy is having trouble with the hull of his Springer. Will give you an insight to whats needed to repair a hull on a V bottom boat.
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I repainted our trad engine floor over a couple of years. It is a pig of a job especially for us pensioners. I found that doing it in stages helped to keep focused on doing a decent job while helping my creaking joints to recover in between.
My friends and I had engine bay envy at the Crick boat show a couple of years ago when three of us sat in the pristine engine room of a dutch barge, we were so jealous of all the space down there.
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Not sure how withholding funds from C&RT is going to improve the lot of boaters or maintenance of the system.
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7 hours ago, Jodie Pearson said:
Is there any facilities/ charity that will help fix a boat. I’m out of funds.
I doubt it.
2 hours ago, Jodie Pearson said:Alternator has gone no heat no nothing bought and was a dud sale x
Maybe try and get your cash back from the seller.
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I just remove any water from the bottom of the tank in the spring. I always brim the tank in winter and remove any any water from the bottom of the tank in spring. I have never got more than an egg cup full out.
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We have a trad stern with an extra wide hatch so two people can stand at the tiller end while cruising.. There is enough room to service the engine and gearbox easily enough, I still get engine room envy with some cruiser sterns boats.
I haven't seen many cruiser stern boats where rain water hasn't got into the bilge. I'm not a fan of pram hoods, when on the move, up or folded they look unsightly but the dry space they afford when stationary during winter would be useful.
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Our vetus 2008 has 6500 on the clock. It doesn't smoke or use oil between it's 200 hour services. So 6000 is no problem as long as you say the servicing has been done.
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12 hours ago, Keeping Up said:
Have you considered a separate charger and inverter? When either one packs up, the replacement cost is a lot less because you aren't having to replace the fully-working other half.
We have a Mastervolt combi , it went back to Holland for repair because the charger side had failed it took 8 weeks to get it back(their website states 10day turnaround). If they were separate I could of just replaced the charger easily myself and saved myself £400
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18 hours ago, dave moore said:
I’ll say it again. The BrushMate storage system does away with the need for meticulous brush cleaning. I also use a spinner to clean brushes, a cylindrical tool that holds brushes and spins them at speed, the centrifugal force quickly removing paint from the bristles. I can’t recall it’s proper name, I’ll look tomorrow.
The Brushmate is a great bit of kit for keeping paint and varnish brushes from drying out. I have saved a fortune in white spirit since I've been using one.
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Looks like the OP could leave them roped as is and just lift them on the gunnel when cruising.
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That was quick, you have put my mind at rest that I wasn't overfilling.
Thanks
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I measured the oil removed from my year old PRM 150 gearbox and it was 1/2 pint more than recommended.
Is this extra to allow for the volume inside the pipes and cooler or do the dipstick marks allow for this.?
Thanks for any advice
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Boats are moving through now.
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The Coventry canal is very quiet.
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26 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:
Ideal to be able to pull up and browse and buy something you don't need.
When working in Manchester (10 years) I was running along the M56 / A55 every day back to N Wales, I'd often call in at Midland Chandlers, even bought a bath once because it was 'on sale', it took years before I found a NB to fit it into.
Yes I fall into this category, popping in to look if there is something there I had forgotten I was desperate for. I do just the same with online stores too.
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41 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:
There are dozens of 'decent' (or even superb) stores for boaty bits, unfortunately they are not on the canals and you need to either travel or order on-line.
Agreed Alan, but it is great to pull up at a canal based chandlers for good advise as well as goods. Two of my favourite for this were Stone Boat Building & Chandlery in Stone and Bottom Lock Chandlery in Braunston both closed last year.
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On 22/06/2020 at 13:16, OldGoat said:
A double 'end of an era' - for us anyway. We started boating when Teddesley Boat Co. started and MC were in a shed next door. Over the years both companies expanded and both ended up in smart buildings. Times change TBC closed down and now MC as well...
Seems TBC are opening up for business again.. https://teddesleyboathire.com/
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Confirmed by MC that Penkridge branch will not re-open.
Nitile glove in intake
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
Update 2
Today I got back to the boat with the new gasket - it came from the Netherlands. Put the manifold and air silencer back on and started her up, after initial lumpiness (5 seconds) the engine smoothed out. I will leave her running for an hour or two as suggested above.
Lesson learnt i will use an empty can to cover the inlet in future.
Thanks again for all the helpful comments