pete.i
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Posts posted by pete.i
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You will need to drain the engine of coolant unless you know what the present state of the coolant is. On my BMC 1.5 I did this by taking the bottom hose off and allowing the old coolant to drain into a bucket. My heat exchanger had a radiator cap and that was where I refilled the coolant. Your radiator cap is on that tank at the rear of of the rocker cover.
After draining the old coolant you then need to mix up the correct ratio and type of anti freeze and water and fill that blue tank at the rear of the rocker cover (that is actually the front of the engine but looking at that picture that tank is at the rear of the rocker cover). This after reconnecting all the hoses of course. Then run the engine for a few minutes to circulate the new coolant and, being careful of removing that filler cap if the engine is hot, top up the tank with new coolant. If you are going to leave the boat for any length of time I would turn the raw water inlet sea cock off until you return.
I have to say that that engine does not look particularly easy to get at the relevant bits. I would also suggest that if you don't understand what we saying that you get someone to show you how it is done. On my BMC 1.5 I never drained the coolant unless I was doing it as part of a service but I was checking my boat and engine, more or less, every day and I had a heater in the engine compartment.
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9 hours ago, Mike the Boilerman said:
I think when the shyte hits the fan, mahoosive pressure from the Great British Public will come to bear on the gummint to keep the canals going. Almost all peeps out there have a massive affection for canals, most of thems havin' never even bin in a bote.
At this moment in time you could, possiby, be right but to my mind it would be the older generation that would be up in arms. In a few years we, the older generation that is, will all be dead and gone and in my opinion the up and coming powers that be, aka the younger generation, do not care about very much at all other than what is happening in their fantasy phone worlds.
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You get the click somewhere around the starter motor because either the solenoid or the starter motor itself is trying to engage and cannot. The click you hear is either of those components trying to move to do it's job and failing.
Down to possibilities. Bad connections. Follow all leads from the starter battery through and clean all connections. Then check the engine earth and battery earth undo and clean those connections. If all the electrical connections are clean and tight and it still clicks then either the solenoid is sticking or the starter motor bendix gear is sticking. That will require at least taking those components off the engine and giving them a thorough clean and lubrication. Lastly it could be a bad battery or a bad solenoid or a bad starter motor. Oh and when you are checking connections check the battery isolator. I have had those symptoms when the starter motor battery isolator is either gunked up or starting to break down. I hope your isolators are in a more accessable place than mine were.
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I tried Interdeck. It looks nice but as a non slip surface it was rubbish, same with the plastic beads. I ended up using kiln dried sand and Toplac. Don't buy the little bags of sand that Chandlerys sell. It's stupidly expensive. I used kiddies play sand. It does deteriorate over a period of time but only in the looks and all the non slip coatings do that eventually. Another coat of paint in a couple of years time and it's good to go again. I would think you could, probably, put three layers of paint on before the "non-slip" aspect disappears
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17 hours ago, Vanessa1402 said:
Hi all!
A big part of my life is vintage clothing- mostly 40s and 50s. Obviously storage is at a premium in narrowboats-I was thinking of sectioning off part of my boat (still in concept stage!) as a walk in wardrobe. Can anyone see any problems with this?
Massive massive problems if you are still thinking of a 30 to 40 footer.
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Hi I live in Selby which isn't a huge distance away from you. I have a small 30 foot narrow boat moored at Goole Boathouse. There are quite a few marinas around this area but most of them do not have all the facilities to enable comfortable living aboard in my opinion. Goole Boathouse does have residential moorings but it is a popular place so moorings don't come up often. There is another marina in Goole called Viking which is also popular. Other than that there are some smaller ones dotted about the place.
I have been boating since 2010 when I retired and this is my third boat. Started off with a 30 foot narrow boat. Then had a 20 foot Shetland 4+2 cruiser. That was a nice little boat and came with a trailer but it wasn't really suited to the canals in my opinion and was a nightmare to tow. So that got sold and now I have part ownership, with a friend of mine, of another 30 foot narrowboat. I do not live on my boat and in my opinion a 30 footer is not a boat that could be lived on. Having said that I wouldn't live on any boat in a million years I like my bricks and mortar. Suits some but not me. As has been said boating isn't cheap I reckon we spend about £3000 a year just keeping our boat on the water and legal. My boating is purely pleasure, summer nice weather boating, it's much more expensive as a liveboard. I live near the Selby Canal which people say is a pretty canal, which it is, but it can get pretty manky and smelly in the summer.
As I have said I am not far away from you if you want to have a ride down this way I would be more than happy to show you round my boat and give you the benefit of my experiences on the canals around here. I am married so not looking for any attachments, (I only mentioned that because you did in your OP LOL). It might give you a chance to have a look at some of the facilities in our area and let you see whether a 30 footer would be a practical live aboard.
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I would have thought that if you have information on what could be something that would benefit the rest of the board or something appertaining to safety ten rather than PM the OP it might be prudent to give that information out.
1 hour ago, system 4-50 said:You have a PM.
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Those pictures that I posted here are the ones that were on Monkey 1s original post.
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this thread is donkey's years old and I don't think the OP posts here any more. I have reproduced the pictures on your original thread.
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I did another reply to this thread but it got lost in the ether, oh well lets try again.
I did not find it particularly easy when I did the two that I repaired but then I am not a mechanic. There are a couple of very important caveats, that Tony Brooks mentioned in one of his posts on this subject, not the least of which is "absolute cleanliness" when carrying out this repair. Not easy in the depths of an engine bay.
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Right I found those pictures and some other stuff. Not sure whether the Tornycroft is a BMC 1.5 but this stuff is for a BMC 1.5. Obviously if your engine is not a 1.5 then the other stuff will not apply but the CAV injector pump is the same. Anyway hope these help.
HHMM this wont let me upload the files as they are not in an allowed format there ya go. I can extract the fuel pump pictures from the Word docs but that will take some time BRB.
Hopefully they will help somewhat.
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Hmmm I found the thread that I used when I had this problem. Unfortunately the poster has removed the pictures. I did have the pictures when I had my BMC 1.5 but they were in the engine manual and I have since sold my boat that had a BMC and all the bits and bobs that went with that engine.
https://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?/topic/52164-leaking-fuel-pump-repair-bmc-15/
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There are a couple of O rings on that shaft that wear and they have to be replaced. I did one a long long time ago but what I did has long been forgotten. Taking that shaft out is not straightforward but is reasonably easy IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING. I thought I had seen a video of the procedure at the time but whether it was on here or on Youtube I cannot remember. I have looked on Youtube and cannot find it so whilst you are waiting for somone more knowledgable than me to come along try the awful search facility to see if you can turn up any information.
Partial help here
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I do volunteer work for CR&T on the education side. We go into schools and what CR&T call "uniformed groups" such as cubs, brownies etc. We talk about water safety and one of the things we do during these sessions is warn about Weil's disease. We also carry cards that say, if we are admitted with flu like symptoms doctors are asked to check for Weil's disease, because we work around canals but we also use the cards during our water safety sessions. As said the risk is not great but it is a sigificant risk. and the disease is not only carried by rats. I don't believe that swimming in canals and rivers, or other water bodies, will ever be stopped but it is extremely important to warn of the dangers of being close to water and that does include water born diseases. I suppose that rivers are cleared fairly quickly of nasties because they flow. Most canals are more or less stagnant.
Unfortunately, at the moment, the water safety sessions, at least in my area seem to have come to a bit of a halt. I also think that the majority of teachers and "uniformed groups" adults do not place a huge significance on talking to their charges about water safety. Personally I think that out of all the volunteering opportunities that the Canal and River Trust have water safety is, by far, the most important.
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Maybe if you people ignored the trolls, (and there are a few that just make comment to purposely troll) on this board they would not be able to troll and, hopefully, will go elsewhere.
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I think if you start worrying about stuff exploding etc etc then you will end up doing nothing. Yes stuff happens but in all of life we do things and hope that it will turn out okay which in 99.999999% of the times it does. Yes it will hit your electricity bill but a broken engine or water pipes will cost you a hell of a lot more. Just do it. As said if you are near enough check your boat on a regular basis if you are not living on it. I have an electric tubular heater on my boat attached to a timer and I check my boat once a week minimum.
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HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA "use a Mac" HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA Sometimes you people on this forum just crease me up.
I do use Linux a lot, BUT unfortunately, whether we like it or not the rest of the world uses Windows. Windows isn't as bad as the OP makes out but it isn't Linux that's for sure and it isn't free. Open Office and Libre Office are both free and available for Windows. I wouldn't pay a monthly fee for Office 365, which is what comes with Windows 10. I'm still using Office 2010 which is now reasonably cheap on Ebay and is a one off payment. There are limitations with Open Office and Libra Office if you use them with Windows. Dunno about with Linux as I don't use either of them for my Linux usage. All the correspondence that I get requires Microsoft Office. Also don't forget that whilst the OP is quite possibly a Linux aficionado you do have to be a be a bit of a nerd to use it at it's fullest.
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And your point is ?????? Or are you just having yet another go at the Canal and River Trust because it happens to be the forum band wagon at present?
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An inch of diesel in the tank? You are out of fuel. But as said you will probably have pulled all the crap from the bottom of the tank. Hopefully the height of your fuel out pipe is sufficient so that the crap has stayed in the bottom of your tank but you may have to bleed the fuel system.
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Thing is if not C&RT then who?? It's all very well bashing CRT and I admit that sometimes it does seem as if they are losing the plot. BUT I have no idea whether opening that sluice would have been dangerous to CRT staff, as they claim, or not, just like everyone else who gets on the CRT bashing wagon. CRT should put out far more information when things like this happen so that the criticisms, especially by those who pay a substantial sum of money into their coffers, are minimised. Again I ask if not CRT then who. Bottom line is that good or bad the Canal and River Trust are all we have and if it is ever taken back into government hands I cannot see it ever getting any better.
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When I was in the army back in the seventies we were on exercise somewhere in the german outback. I ran a HF link back to the UK and being HF the antennae we used were long pieces of copper wire suspended between two 48 foot masts. This type of arial is called a dipole. Anyway the copper wire we used for the dipole wasn't much thicker than a paperclip. One day as we sat in our wagon there was a hell of a commotion outside and we went out to see a helicopter of the Royal Army Air Corps land about fifty yards away. The pilot (or co-pilot, can't remember now) got out of the helicopter and came running over. He asked if he could have some of our arial wire. He needed about a foot. As we had miles of the stuff in our lockers we snipped off a foot or so. He then took it over to his copter and proceeded to wind it around some part of one of the rotor blades. After a short time he jumped down shouted thanks fired up the chopper and flew off. To this day I have no idea which part of his rotor blade he tied back on with a piece of our copper wire.
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3 minutes ago, Clodi said:
I have a pump similar to yours, the base of the pump clips off (for cleaning etc). On my boat there is a glass fiber 'box' directly under the stern gland and the bilge-pump Base is stuck down using Sikaflex, or similar. The pump should be wired directly to the battery using an appropriate fuse so it is always on. Hope this helps.
Same here, this is the way to go. Only problem I found was that because the outlet is straight and the area to put the pump is a small triangle with high sides I couldn't get enough bend in the pipe without kinking it. I eventually found a 90 degree plastic elbow that fitted the diameter of the outlet. Why manufacturers of bilge pumps do not add some sort of fitment to accommodate awkward places that bilge pumps usually have to be installed in I do not know.
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Thing is, C&RT are all we've got. All this whinging and whining, (and I admit that I do my fair share although not on this forum because posters here just just jump down one's throat rather than putting forward a coherent counter argument,) is all very good but if The Canal and River Trust go down the pan then so do the canals eventually. I do not have a boat of my own any more as such so it really doesn't matter to me but I still wouldn't like to see the inland waterways spiral into terminal decline. I know the government have some form of option to take back control if CRT fail but in all honesty I cannot see any government keeping the canals going.
I do not know how or if it can be done but the only people who have a vested interest in saving the canal system are boaters and from where I am sitting it seems to me that all the boating organisations and indeed boaters themselves only want to do CRT and each other down. As I have said I no longer pay a licence fee to CRT so it isn't going to affect my life if the canals disappear. But there are a lot of people on the canals who's lives will be severely affected if such a thing should happen.
And for those who will think that I am a licence fee dodger, I am not. I have a part share in a boat with a friend of mine. That friend pays for a licence and mooring and every thing else. I have put a small amount of money in to the boat but I also look after it for my friend and I get to use it.
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Our boat, also a 30 foot cruiser stern, had much more water than that in the engine compartment. I replaced a couple of leaky pipes and sealed off the triangular bit of the bilge, where the stern gland drips, from the rest of the engine compartment. I also replaced the engine cover boards, which appeared to have been made from old barn door tongue and groove planks and which leaked like a sieve, with a single sheet of buffalo board. Make sure the drainage channels and drain holes are clear and it all should be good. Mine is as dry as a bone now apart from the plastic container where my automatic bilge pump sits. The only concern I would have is how much rust is down there. it is an unpleasant enough job doing any maintenance work on an engine as it is. A soaking wet engine compartment makes that job ten times worse.
Oh and don't muck about with baby nappies or towels etc. Get yourself a half decent wet vac and vac it out. Then dry it with old towels. Baby nappies especially are the devils tools. They break and spew snot all over the place especially the cheap ones.
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New Student Boater (Nearly)
in New to Boating?
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As said, be there when the survey is carried out, you are paying a lot of money for it. I followed my surveyor around as he was doing the surveys. He pointed out out problems to me as we went. I turned down two boats, which cost something in the region of £1400 for the two surveys, but that was a LOT cheaper than doing the work that would have been required to bring those boats up to an acceptable standard. I would also suggest that you find out what things the surveyor is looking for and what the consequences are if things are not up to scratch, of course you may already know about these things.
Surveys are critically important when buying a boat. They are also very expensive. Ulitimately your pocket could be hit badly if you have a bad survey or you accept a boat that doesn't come up to par. It could, in extreme circumstances I will admit, cost you your life. Do not entertain the people on here who waffle on about buying boats without a survey. They are either very knowledgeable and know what to look for thenselves or they are waffling.