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Showing results for tags 'rcd'.
Found 3 results
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Our brand new kettle, from ASDA and a Which? Best Buy, trips the shore breaker. But not when it is turned on; it trips when the kettle switches off. We have a 16A supply. It is the common breaker for two boats that trips. At 240V it is rated 3,000W.
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Evening all, I have a query about a second-hand boat that’s up for sale, which is described as being a 2008 Liverpool hull (self-fitted by the previous owner). The vendor described the chassis plate HIN/CIN number as being of the form ‘CBBxxxxx’ (I’ve hidden the numbers with x’s to protect his privacy). This seems like a strange number for a HIN/CIN, to me. Also, the only MIC code I can find for ‘CBB’ is C B Boats Ltd? If anyone has any ideas, I’d appreciate the feedback. Not sure I’m happy buying a boat with no RCD and a strange chassis number. Specifically, did Liverpool always mark their boats with a specific MIC and number format, or did they vary? Thanks in advance. -
WARNING! Much to my surprise, having switched off the inverter-supplied 'mains' wall socket by its switch, I got a shock from the appliance on which I was working. I was wondering how many folks know that many inverters make both the 'live' and the 'neutral' wires live, but with both registering approximately half of the total voltage supplied. For this reason, any wall socket that only switches the 'live', (which is most) will still leave any switched-off appliance live via the neutral wire, and believe me, 120v ac is enough to hurt! Of course, one should never work on any appliance without first pulling the plug, but this is even more critical from an inverter-supplied circuit, unless your wall sockets utilises dpdt swictches. How do my learned friends advise wiring-in an inverter so that an RCD will work correctly on a steel vessel, given that both the live and neutral are in fact live?
