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Found 1 result

  1. Is anyone able to comment on my procedure described below and/or use of Fertan instead of Vactan...? I have some rusting on the inside of my steel hull caused by condensate on the exposed swims. It has got quite bad at the bottom where the condensate collects and ultrasound testing suggests it may need plating when the boat next comes out the water. In the meantime I am treating the cause of the problem and wondered if anyone can chime in with some advice... this is my procedure: 1. take back the loose rust and paint with scrapers, a chipping hammer and wire brush (completed: see photos) 2. wash down with detergent and rinse 3. one coat with a rust converter (see below) 4. overcoat with impermeable paint such as Bitumastic 4. lay rockwool over steel surfaces 5. cover with a thin impermeable polyurethane sheet 6. lay over 12mm MDF I bought 5 litres of Vactan but discovered afterwards that it won't cure at temperatures below 10°C. I confirmed this with a test patch overnight. There is a good discussion about this here. In short, Vactan is a vinyl-acrylic polymer emulsion which dries to a plastic film via evaporation, hence why it won't work in low temperatures. The Vactan is returnable and as I don't want to wait until the spring and the steel temp has risen to 10°C it seems that Fertan might be a better alternative as it supposedly cures at temps above 1°C. The Fertan blurb says 'a "shot-blasting" result can be achieved by simply unscrewing the top of the container and working a brush or spray on to the rusted surface'. I am skeptical about this but from the research I've done it does seem to be a cost effective solution to my problem. I wondered if anyone has experience of Fertan and if anyone could give me any comments or advice regards treating my rust problem before I plough on into the unknown. Some photos:
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