Search the Community

Hello all, I've completed by fuel system refit for my surplus BMC 1.8 (westerbeke w50). There are new fuel filters, lift pump, rebuild injection pump, new glow plugs, and new injectors (all 4) tighter to spec (12 ft/lbs). Successful bled everthing according to the manual and got her fired up. She runs a bit rougher than normal. I was cautious to try and get the timing lined up. The previous pump was quite advanced, rotated toward the outside of the engine. The injectors were also in rough shape. My pump is the mechanical variant without the torsion bar. I don't have much smoke to speak of, perhaps a tiny amount that may be steam it's humid at 10 degrees today. The issue: However, when running I'll hear a 'Lumpy' or rocky feeling combustion (I believe) it's pretty consistent. I do not believe it was there before. It's more pronounced at lower rpm it increases with rpm until it's not very noticable. I slackened the Union nuts in the fuel lines and was able to make the engine very lumpy all the time on 3 cylinders. So I know all are firing at some point. The first and 4th fuel line sprays everywhere, while 2 and 3 are a little more relaxed at least not misting. I hope this isn't too much info. Basically, I'm looking to see if the timing could be the culprit here? Perhaps too advanced to cover for the older injectors? Perhaps I installed it not advanced enough? Possible bad new injector? Another thing I'm playing with for a future task is perhaps too much back pressure. I have way to much rise ~1.5M (60inches). The lump feeling does seem to coincide with the wet exhaust discharge interval. Perhaps I didn't notice it before? Another, thought I had: I adjusted the valve lash, if I over did it when tightening down could this cause that issue? Though, it ran fine with the previous injection pump. Any insight or thoughts would be much appreciated! Thank you!

Hey folks, me again. I'm having all sorts of fun this season getting my old engine ready for adventures. Got around to investigating the intermittent start motor crash sound. It was super loud. I found that each side of the fly wheel that aligns with the compression strokes has some messed up teeth (see image). I desperately do not want to replace the fly wheel if possible. Question 1 and 2. Can I take a dremel and gently remove the burrs? Are these teeth too far gone? Question 3. Looking at the wear patterns it doesn't look like the start motor gear is full engaging with the fly wheel. I'm still a new to this all, would you all agree? Bonus points questions. It also appears I have a rear main seal leak (see photo - endoscopes are cool). Plus evidenced from oily start motor when I pulled it. It's not terrible, loses maybe a quart over 100 hours I believe. Is this a 'wait and see' sorta issue, or a fix asap? Anyone have luck with oil leak stop products or are they just snake oil (no pun intended)? As always thank you all for your time!

Hey folks, Getting ready to do some engine work and figured I'd do a compression test while I'm at it via the glow plug port. I have a kit. All sizes of adapters are metric. What is confounding me is sites are reporting the ag32 heater plug is M10x1.0 and another saying 3/8". I know these are damn close, but I'm looking for someone to confirm that the head takes M10x1.0. The 3/8 is an error right?

Hey all, Been spending some time on here since installing a surplus BMC 1.8 (Westerbek w50). The W50 manual indicates the camshaft is the older style with lower compression ratio require 0.017 clearance. However, the description of external ribs on the block for the newer style fits what I see. I understand that requires 0.014. I'm looking for feedback on if this is the old style or new style block? Would the old cam fit in the new block? I.e. did westerbeke do something weird potentially?

Hey all, First time posting. I've been following for sometime and learning as much as I can but still consider myself a novice - intermediate. Yesterday while I was completing a coolant flush I noticed very tiny amount of bubbling right at the headgasket line on the aft end of the engine nearest the flywheel. I googled and found this user's post: here The bubbling is exactly that, though on the back end of the engine. Similar to that user, I also notice no issues starting, no water in oil, or oil in coolant. I was able to observe the water in the headertank while engine was running and didn't notice any bubbles either. I followed the suggestion to retorque the head bolts to spec, and noticed next time I fired the engine there was no bubbling, after some time before the thermostat opened, I noticed much reduced bubbling, so small I was second guessing my eyes. After the engine was a temp no further bubbles. I gave her some throttle, no bubbles either. I'm planning on pulling the injectors and swapping in a rebuilt injection pump due to a small fuel leak from the pump weep hole. Should I dive in and replace the headgasket now? Is this typical behavor for a head that just needed tightening? Am I nuts to consider a gasket replacement? Thanks all for any advice!

Good morning all, I’ve owned my boat for just over a year & am based in a marina so I don’t move the boat much except for pump out and the odd trip out. i was told that my engine is a bmc1.8 however, i can’t find a plate with a specific engine number and the endings decals (attached photos) read Caledon Marine. I can’t find any info on Caldon marine engines or a connected business. can anyone shed some light on this ? Many thanks Tim

Hi All, can anyone here suggest an alternative way of removing the Injectors on a BMC1.8 the BMC manual says you need to use tool 18G284 and 18G284P as seen in picture attached.