blodger
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Posts posted by blodger
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Different data sheets which I don't quite understand. I've just bought LPWS2 so worried I should have got canal star as consumption seems to be a lot less but engine seems the same? Boat is 25 feet narrowboat which had 10.8 bop engine which was too small
I have a LPWS3 and I average a litre/hour on the canals and this only doubles when on the river running flat out. So I would not worry too much.
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Not easy to define of course, and it depends on exactly how one defines continuous moorer. Some people sadly use the term to refer to any untidy boat that they do not like the look of.
Also do note that I said "could POSSIBLY be continuous moorers". I choose my words carefully as we spend a lot of time on the K&A and I well know that many boats that sometimes appear fixed to the towpath, with possessions all over the place, actually up sticks and move very frequently
We were last on the Macc a year ago and I noticed one boat that is moored on the towpath in exactly the same position as it was then, and had fixed various protest notices to a nearby bridge. There was no sign to indicate it was a CaRT permanent mooring. This boat might possibly be a very continuous moorer, but it might have every right to be where it is. In general boats that have a huge amount of associated clutter, and even a "tender" full of more stuff are less likely to be on a major progressive journey round the system...but then I know one or two who are.
I also know a few continuous moorers who know how to look nothing at all like a continuous moorer and have successfully lived on the same 5 mile stretch of canal for many years!
For a bit of fun maybe the forum could make a list of the ten obvious characteristics of a continuous moorer?.
.............Dave
Re-opened this thread to say that after fairly lengthy litigation the boat referred to above was moved by CART yesterday.
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Perhaps you could drop the voltage a bit with a heavy duty diode to avoid messing with the genny?
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Ah, ok. I have a dongle on Three already, I assume that PAYG package won't work on the tablet too?
The 90 days 3gb one isn't too bad either. Do I actually need a dongle in the tablet, or just the dongle sim itself?
Your current Thee dongle/sim on PAYG should work most tablets. They often have only one mini or micro usb port to accept the dongle/keyboard/whatever necessitating the matching usb (OTG) cable to connect.
Picture Information
Free P&PImage not available Photos not available for this variation
Have one to sell? Sell it yourself7" Android 4.2 Dual -Core Capacitive Touch Screen 4GB Dual Camera Tablet PC WifiItem condition:NewStart of add to list layerEnd of add to list layer -
No phone contract, everything on PAYG.
IMO you are best of trying a Three Data (Mobile) sim off Ebay; About 12 squid for 3gb that lasts 90 days. A second hand dongle can be picked up for a tenner
As has been said many tablets will have the built in ability to use 3G direct from a dongle; Even the 40 squid chinese ones
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US $13.59
£8.46
Buy it nowFree P&P
28d 10h
If you want cheap this works with most dongles I have tried to create a hotspot which will run 5 devices
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The 3 pot is about 27hp with the 4 being the 36 IIRC. An old BMC1500 always seemed gutsier to me than this Lister.
I have a 1990 TT Marine 57' with a 3 pot in it still going strong.
Strangely that used to readily overheat. I fitted a header tank, dropped skin tank feed pipes into the (wet) bilge and stuck a radiator in series with the calorifier to keep engine temperature down. When the calorifier had to be replaced I fitted a much bigger one and overheating became a thing of the past.
I use the boat much less now owing to the wife's health and I have the opposite problem now that of having difficulty getting the engine up to 80C working temperature.
If a Lister did not smoke a bit now and then one would worry something was awry. Regular oil/filter changes are what Listers thrive on and vice versa.
You seem to have asked your surveyor to find fault with the engine so he dutifully has. I doubt it is as bad as being unuseable and improvable.
Try to get a good reduction in price on the strength of the report and possibility of need to replace the engine by all means but then give it a go.
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I have some still going at 10 years plus that probably have only half their capacity but suffice so it is not beyond the realms of possibility
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Progress! I cleaned up the contacts between the wires and the relay and refitted the relay. Whereas before the voltage at the relay was 1 volt less than at the alternator the difference is now only .1-.13. And the contact at the relay is no longer warm to the touch. So it seems that element of the problem might be solved.
But...my alternator is now showing only 13.85 volts with the engine running at a fair old speed. I've already identified that the belt running the alternator is loose and at the end of its adjustment. I need to buy a new one. Is this the most likely cause of the less than expected voltage here?
There you are easy peasy
The batts now they are better connected will drag down the alternator voltage but they should slowly rise to the alternator regulated voltage which you want to be at least 14.2/14.4v,
Eve 40 amps is a fair old load on a belt so it is bound to slip; they do not always squeal their plight. So it is bound to be having a detrimental effect; its being slack that is.
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I've removed the cube thingy it's a Lucas 33ra, seems to be a relay. Connections seemed ok but I'm going to clean it up before I put it back on.
Well they are spec'd for 60a so should be good for 40a. Replacements are 12/15 squid IIRC. Personally I would pay a bit more and get a 100/140 amp one ready for when you upgrade the alternator. (I am sure you will have to in time
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Is there a split charge diode by any chance
A diode would be bigger than most relays with fins for cooling and no need for the two thinner wires.
My guess is that due to the small 40a alternator this is an inadequate type car relay or a lucas more suited to heater plugs than split charging.
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Thanks for the replies. There may be some progress:
I ran the engine this morning and once again there was a difference of 1 volt between the alternator and the leisure batteries. On the panel that the isolators are fixed to there is a cube shaped affair. This has 2 thickish positive wires going into it, plus a thinner brown and black one. The readings at the red wires are .1 volt less than the alternator but .9 volt more than the batteries. I wouldn't say these connections are hot, but they are certainly a little warm to the touch.
Have I found the problem do you think, what to do next?
It may be a significant contributory factor. I also suspect one of your batterries/charging regime.
The box with wires is in all probability your split charge relay with the two thin wires being what actuates it when the ignition is on and the alternator is running. The two thick positives will be a live from/to the alternator to the starter battery and live to the domestics. Relays should not drop 0.8v so if cleaning terminals and retightening does not work it may be a case of replacing.
If you have a means to jump the two lives thus cutting out the relay you should see the higher voltage at the batts proving the need to replace; Perhaps the contacts internally are burning out/corroded.
In all probability it is your split charge relay with the thinner wires being what actuates it from the ignition being on and the alternator running respectively. The lives will effectively be one from the starter battery & alternator and one from the domestics if your starter battery is getting alternator voltage.
Relays should not drop 0.8v so if cleaning terminals, refitting and tightening does not improve things it is replacement time.
The contacts are possible burning out/corroded. Small Lucas relays are notoriously short lived.
If you have the means to jump the two big terminals at the relay or remove and bolt together you should see the higher voltage at the domestics. Be aware that in doing so you are joining (parallelling) the domestics with the starter battery.
ETA Two posts here as first disappeared; Slightly different content so leaving alone.
CWDF seems very slow today
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You cannot get a SOC indication by voltage when the batts are in use or charging or have recently been so.
After prolonged charging the voltage at the alternator should more or less equal the voltage at the batteries and effective charging may have ceased. However, getting the last 10% of charge in takes up to four times longer than the charging getting them to 90%.
The large difference in voltage at your batts compared with that at the alternator implies some problem of resistance on the route of the current to the batts such as bad connections or a dodgy isolator switch. Think about it, its the same piece of wire with different voltages at each end. However, a totally goosed battery will drag down the voltage at the receiving end.
You need a good 14v + voltage at the batts to get maximum charging at the batts to use running the engine efficiently which is where so called 'battery boilers' come in to obviate 1/2 volt drops in voltage which come in if you are using a diode to separate engine and domestics as opposed to relay split charging.
Hope that helps. It is not as simple as yes or No to some questions
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Watch the charging voltage from start of engine running to when it stabilises and/or you switch off.
It should gradually rise to over 14v. If it does not I would suspect the alternator charge voltage is too low providing charging is lengthy enough and the batts are not totally goosed.
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Hi,
My "package" is £4.78 per month for 3GB with T mobile inc Huawei router. good thing with T mobile is when you go over your GB allowance they only slow you down - no cut off or extra charges
Only 3G but does all I need
Regards Ray
PS Cruising down the Manchester Ship Canal Tuesday if you see us wave
R.
I understood tmobile to be one of the more expensive 3g data providers; Julst looked at their web site and their offer for 3gb per month is 16.00/month. If you are getting it for 4.78 I would keep quiet about it!
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I'd say you'd qualify for a refund for none use!
Sorry homer, but as one who buys an EOG permit as well as pay a landlord for his online mooring, this is seems to be nothing more than a rant by you mate. I think those who use a marina will take issue at your perception of paying a "disproportinate" amount to moor their boat, be it to CRT or anyone else. I also think you'll find that your EOG permit is cheaper than a CRT run online mooring fee, so maybe you should've checked what boats on a CRT site nearest to you are paying in comparison to what you're paying & then consider that you'll undoubtably have access to far more facilities than most online moorers do. Parking, waste disposal, rubbish disposal, water, electric, etc., etc.
Think about it lad, your EOG is fantastic value in comparison & definately not a disproportinate amount.
Yes, but they did use to be free
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No they aren't.
NABO are there to extract money from the unwary and waste it on legal advice to seek ways for a tiny minority of boaters to get round the rules that benefit the vast majority
You have just helped NABO go up in my estimation so if ACC does not take off I might join.
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Fun for you, crass and stupid in my opinion
Richard
A surprising comment from you. I think it helps folk see the stigma they attach to those who do differently to them.
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I understand the ptrol/enforcement officer to have advised that all those without home moorings habitually on the Macclesfield Canal are going to be given up to date information regarding guidance and the enforcement action that will be taken.
Strangely 7 miles is mentioned?
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Meaty zener diode to a heater element in the calorifier.
Could you fool a VSR relay with diodes to the same effect?
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Another observation......we were moored about 50ft from the elsan point (offside of canal), and were inside our boat...and the whiff that arrived when they started their pump out....was far worse...even at that distance....than I have ever experienced with a casette. Even if it's once a month or two, I would never enjoy having to stand closer than 50ft while doing a pump out....WHAT A PONG
That's why I say there is a lot CaRT could do relatively cheaply to obviate this by having a stand pipe into the sewer that self pump outers connect to; Cuts out contact with the air.
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Aldi this Thursday are also doind a stove pipe thermometer for 3.99; about a tenner on EBay.
Useful for those who scorn EcoFans for indicating what their fire's doing
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IMO Elsan points need to be upgraded as part of planned maintenance and as funds permit to make self pump out easier and therefore more acceptable obviating the issues raised in this thread.
ETA I only joined in to put this view in case CaRT's reading this to see what new rules it can impose
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I would fit another 12v charging socket and if that works OK also replace the first. It's a good idea to have some redundancy.
I think the socket/wiring/contacts are the problem;
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daditongworld
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CRT evictions of disabled boaters
in General Boating
Posted
I do not know when and whence came the offer of a free mooring but doubt that would have fitted "Maggie"s aims.
Maggie was not 'under the mental health services' and would resent it being implied she was mental sufficient to warrant the attention of mental health services. Concerned parties had engaged with mental health services exploring possibilities and they in turn had also spoken with/assessed Maggie.
Maggie continued to pursue her own aims and objectives and endeavoured to use the legal system to fulfil them