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Roger Crown

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Posts posted by Roger Crown

  1. A neighbour of mine is going to get some perspex or acrylic sheets to do the removable double glazing thing using self-adhesive strip magnets. I thought the magnets had to go all the way around the window so that it was sealed, but he seems to think that would make the perspex too difficult to remove, and it only needs magets in the corners and the middle of each side of the window.

     

    How do you get the perspex off once it's attached to the magnets? Do people put little knobs or handles into the perspex?

     

    Can anyone who's actually done it comment? Thanks

    We are into our third winter with acrylic panels attached with magnetic strips.

    The strips do need to be around the full perimeter of the panels otherwise it will not work.

    I used 12mm A & B magnetic strips. To remove them I simply pull one corner away and the panels come off easily. No need for handles and such.

     

    Roger

  2. He knows something the government doesn't then about oil prices, or maybe he is just trying to shift the stock he has at the moment in case it drops more and he loses money.

    They were ordering a delivery for Friday at the pre increase price, deliveries after that will be at the new price.

    Selling 7000 to 8000 litres a week in the winter I don't think they worry too much about having the price their stock drop.

     

    I have no connection with them other than as a customer, just what they told me.

  3. Hi Alan,

     

    The trays fitted to all our boats were around the 100 mm depth overall so probably 85 mm water catchment, which was never a problem with either the automatic sump systems or the gulper type ones, as long as you turn it on first icecream.gif

     

    Height was always a problem with shower enclosures, we used to sink our trays down as low as possible, 18 mm ply on the baseplate stiffeners always worked for us.

     

    Our shower doors / enclosures were 1850 mm high domestic products, so you may be able to use them.

    If they still manufacture them they were from Plumb Centre, their website is down so can't help further.

     

    Cheers

    Roger

  4. Does anyone know much about the Adverc and its wireing. There is a twin set of black wires that run from the main box, according to the instructions they go to the alternator negative or B- post. My vetus alternator has no such thing, only the main feed B post. This was all wired up fine till I took the alternator off for repair, now of course I can't remember where these wires go there not an earth because theres 6v coming down them.

     

    Hi,

    from the installation manual:-

    ADVERC BLACK - (Twin leads) B- terminal or case if earth return.

     

    Roger

  5. I don't know if this helps or hinders, the 1st boat we built in 2001 was moored at Little Hallingbury Marina on the Stort.

    When the boat was docked at the 12 month stage heavy pitting was found on one side, the side next to the steel pilings where the boat was moored.

    There was an electrical flow through the water from boat to pilings , though I can't remember the values.

    The owner fitted a galvanic Isolator which as far as I know solved the problem.

     

    Roger

  6. It sounds a lot of money. Breaking it down, docking the boat and then the cost of the parts you mention are hundreds, so it seems a reasonable quote.

     

    Mate of mine had a similar problem, Liverpool Boat, Isuzu engine.

     

    He made a successful claim on his insurance. wink.png

     

    I think he may have had a similar experience to you. wink.png

     

    His propeller hit a large tree trunk under the water . wink.pngwink.pngwink.png

     

  7. Is the overload light constant or flashing?

    If constant and I'm guessing it is then there could be a short circuit somewhere.

    Switch off the RCD from the output of the Multiplus that is supplying the general sockets and see if that eliminates the problem.

    Roger

  8.  

    Find where the vent is (probably through the hull side). When the water comes out you'll know it's full.

     

    And if the vent line is fitted with a charcoal filter it will be a clean up job and a replacement filter, and it wont be just water overflowing !!!!

  9. Hello Everybody!

     

    ...i'm looking to install 2 of these...

     

    http://www.quietpc.com/nf-s12a-uln

     

    ...in series...

     

    ...to circulate warm air around my narrow boat...

     

    ...from the point of connection and back is 25 metres...

     

    ...can anybody tell me what size of cable i need, cross-sectional area...

     

    ...i'm thinking of using good quality speaker wire...

     

    ...the system is 12 volt...

     

    Thank you! smile.png

     

    ps. if link doesn't work cut & paste it into the browser window.

     

    At 0.6 Amp current draw (according to the spec) at 12v I'd say decent quality speaker wire would be fine.

     

     

    Are you sure Mike?

     

    To add, what size is "decent quality" speaker wire? And does it have a minimum of 28 strands per conductor?

  10. I do get this about poor installation. But why is that Eberspachers seem to suffer more?

    I know that the fitment by the boat builder is no guarantee that it is done correctly, but what else can we go by? As I said in my post I had three of the damned things, One from the builder, and two from Eber themselves. They were bought from main agents, as "for narrowboat fitment". I didn't have trouble with the thing lighting very often. It never gave continual lighting problems, except if it needed decoking, which usually fixed the problem. It was component failure that spelt the death knell. The first one was the combustion fan, replaced under guarantee, the next two were electronic pack failure.

    Bob

    Hi Bob

    Both failures are symptomatic of the unit running in a hot environment.

    These heaters, like their competitors were all designed as engine pre-heaters in cars and trucks and were/are mounted externally in free air.

    Not easily possible in a boat so other measures need to be taken at the time of installation to negate the problem.

     

    Roger

  11. HI

    Depending on how old your bow thruster is the remote panel may not be of the time delay type, (time delay to stop switching directions instantly which tends to blow the main fuse) your system may be fitted with a separate time delay unit.

    The installation may not even have any time delay, if the installer didn't fancy spending an extra 50 quid.

    There is another timer fitted to the later panels which automatically switches the panel off after 30 minutes of idle time??? A silly arrangement that has the operator pressing the power button twice to make the thing work because it has timed out.

    So my opinion would be rig your own switch arrangement.

    Power on/off preferably with an indicator light (fed from the blade fuse on the thruster itself) and then Port and Starboard switching on the Blue and White wires.

     

    Roger

  12. Iv'e never understood why people think the Squirrel is a good stove.

    Due to there design and manufacture they crack, sooner or later.

    Get yourself a nice welded steel stove like the Aarrow Becton Bunny.

    And before all the Squirrel fans start, oh it has many controls so you can really control the fire.

    The Becton will stay in all night on most fuels without having to bank it up to the top.

    Ours and the other 30 ish we fitted are great.

    Cheers

    Roger

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