johnjo
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Posts posted by johnjo
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Just for starters your connections don't look right to me. The unit with the arrow on it is an auto changeover valve and normally you would have two bottles connected to it, one on each side, and the supply into the boat from the bottom with an on/off tap just below, also the conection on the right, which should normally be connected to the second bottle, in the photo has what looks like a corroding jubilee clips, I would change them for a S/S ones.
When changing an empty bottle [it'll be very light], close the tap on the top of the bottle, then undo the connector remembering it's a left hand thread so undoes in a clockwise direction. Then just reconnect the new one [don't over tighten, but make sure it's firm] ensuring you don't crossthread it. Turn on the tap, check there are no leaks, job done.
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I've often thought about using gas struts on my rear deck board. It's one piece 6' x 3' hinged along long edge, plus soundproofing. Could they take that much weight?
Obviously struts for different car models are specifically designed for the weight of the door/tailgate/bonnet they are lifting, so finding the correct one for any job they're not designed for could be a problem. Also the placing/mounting of them will make a difference.
I've bought several different ones to try on our hatches very cheaply on Ebay [£5 a pair].
So I'll just trial & error with them, but anything that helps lift & hold them, even if I have to help them to keep up with something similar to a bonnet lid stay, will be easier than having to lift them from the flat position on the roof when open.
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SWMBO thought this mght be a good way to spend Xmas, so I had a check re: getting back to the start point.
Couldn't find a single car hire firm willing to leave a car on the 4th at the Market Harborough yard let alone collect it from Anderton, so gave it a miss.
Think the boat hirers might have missed a trick here, by not offering a lift back at a sensible price, say £100, especially as there would possibly be more than one boat load having the same need.
Nick got there first.
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Seems like a good win/win solution to a problem
Have to agree, plus you get to see fresh scenery the whole trip, as apposed to the same [albiet from a different perspective] on the way back.
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Ebay, just bought a pair for a Renault for £5 inc P&P.
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Just received this link in an email, apologies if you've already seen it, it's a brilliant concept. It's one of those 'Wish I'd thought of it' ideas.
It's a 3mins long video, but stick with it, you'll be amazed, honest.
http://unclutterer.com/2009/11/11/brillian...pt-saves-space/
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Thanks for that Chris, had done a search but didn't come up
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http://www.narrowboatworld.com/index.php?o...h&Itemid=38
Can any of you brighter ones explain exactly what this will mean to canal users in general.
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Although of course if you didn't find the leak then it'll need re-gassing again after a while.
The chap who fixed ours, Derek, is a very competent engineer, and obviously found the leak and fixed it first.
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28mm plastic push fit to copper fitting at screwfix, any good for you 'Smelly' ?
The plastic pipe is reasonably flexible when heated up in hot water.
Scroll 3/4 of the way down the page.
http://www.bizrate.co.uk/plumbingsupplies/...3--688367-.html
Edited to correct link.
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Hi and welcome to the forum
Residential moorings seem to be a little easier to find where we are moored. We are about 20 minutes drive from Cambridge and the costs are £33 per foot per year in our marina. About £1700 + vat per year for a 50 footer.
Roger
Careful, at those prices I could be persuaded to move, and you could end up with me as a neighbour.
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Get the mooring then the boat, residential moorings can be about £4k per year & upwards in a Marina, if you can get one, they are extremely rare and there is usually a long waiting list. You normally get some services with most marina moorings, water & electric.
Some marinas have a limited amount of nights you can stay on your boat with full time/leisure moorings, and while some marinas can be quite strict, others will turn a blind eye but these have been known to up your fees the next year with only a hint as to why.
Best is to ask around although I think unless you know who you're talking to, or rather they know who they are talking to, some will be a bit reluctant to give out too much info, especially if they are on a marina that tends to turn a blind eye.
Welcome to the forum.
Sorry should have included 'for a 58ft NB in the outer London area'
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Go on Bobrowne, you can do it, 'Welcome' bye the way.
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Might need regassing.
We had the same problem, [not with a Shoreline], our local white goods repair man charged £30, good as new after.
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Sorry, but I don't understand, why is the unburned fuel wasted? surely it does the same job as the extra firebricks would and when you relight the stove that unused fuel gets recycled or am I missing something?
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That sounds erm, unwise, ill considered, less than sensible. Sorry, but whatever the result, a change off lifestyle like that if you really have never been on a narrowboat doesn't make you stupid, but it does mean you are doing a stupid thing.
Same thoughts occured to me, but we all do what appear to others, daft things at times, all I can say to Tanis is 'I wish you the all the very best' [i'm not being sarcastic]
When we first thought of buying a NB we were advised to try it for at least three weeks, we did and we loved it.
Bought our NB last year, had a few 'moments' but you either love it or loath it and we love it. Spent many weeks on it checking out how the plumbing and wiring worked, checking engine & gearbox, sorting the Paloma W/H and in the summer replaced some of the plumbing, stripping out & refurbishing the loo
, fitting new sink and other bits & bobs.Fell in
and nearly drowned last December carrying a new starter battery along the gunnel, long story, and the C/H pump failed and the boiler nearly blew up, [hopefully the valve would have vented 1st], plus loads of other happenings.We spent last Xmas on her and will do again this year, so we are used to the coldish weather whilst being aboard.
Do I have any second thoughts, some, but still looking foreward to eventually moving onboard permanently.
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Our house in Loughborough sadly has the same abilty to retain heat as chocolate firegaurd has of retaining fire.
- This is slightly odd, as last years house on the same road all of which where built together was really very good for a 60's student dig.
- I put this down to either a diffrence in build spec for the three sizes (this is the second size, other was largest) or the use of post fill cavity insulation in last years house.
However it still stands thats its shocking too heat, the boiler works just about flatout to the keep the rads hot and it takes about two hours and £2 to drag it kicking a screaming from 14deg back to a more reasonable 19 after its been off all day while we've been out, which inc half an hour in the morning is costing silly money we dont have. Then the heating goes off an come about 10 it gets to a stat where its silly again.
Typically i wear two t'shirts and a fleese in the house, with some second baggy trousers i pull over my jeans. However its still silly, and my hands get cold meaning i cant type with any accuracy at all (worse, even, than normal!!) which is a total swine when trying to get some CW done for tomorrow or sort out the days sillyness on the forum.
SOoooooooo. I thought about geting a cheap and shitty little 300w halogen heater and running that in a evening to heat me, not the rest of the house.
Thoughts?
Daniel
Whats the loft insulation like. We had ours redone a couple of years ago with another layer over the existing, and the difference was/is amazing.
Your landlord may be able to get it done for free using a goverment grant.
We were using a halogen heater before, about £9.99 from B&Q 3heats 4/8/12 and oscillation, one of the best electric heaters we've had. If you knock it over or lift it to move it it turns off immediately, so pretty safe too.
Edited to add.
Like this one, sorry can't do those linky things.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Electric-Halogen-Hea...=item19b81bda9c
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That's the best suggestion thus far.. I don't understand the olympic idea
I should point out that I bought 2 of these, the other says tested 18-10-18, bet that doesn't help anyone..
The stand where they receive their medals.
I.O.W. Isle Of Wight?
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fair question, i am in full employment 4 days on 24hr call then 4 days off with a works van covering a wide area, work dont mind where i am in the area as long as i can be on my way in 10 to 15 mins, so finding spots where i can get the van quite near is a need,
Had thought of your idea john but really could not bring myself to pay for a mooring knowing i would not be there
Go for it then, it's the only way you'll ever find out.
You can always moor near the marina and visit your friends if you get lonely
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Bearing in mind how difficult it is to get a residential mooring, [i'm assuming it's residential], if you can afford it, keep it for a year but CC during that time and see if it suits you.
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Connecting the genny to the 240v input could cause problems couldn't it?
Unless the genny has a regulated output won't it damage anything that requires a smooth 240v.
I always thought their output voltage has a the potential [no pun intended] to rise & fall quite dramically?
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Hello,
There have been quite a few threads concerning overplating of hulls and there seems to be two camps - not unusual I suppose!
The one camp says that overplating gives you a 'new' boat, the other camp says that it is a short term fix which will only last for 5 - 10 years. I expect the truth lies between these? It also probably depends upon a number of connected things, like quality and thickness of the steel used, the quality of welding, how much is overplated and so on? There is also the question of cost! Is it cost-effective to replate? Is it even possible without removing the floor and ballast? Again opinions seem to differ.
Why am I interested? I have seen a narrowboat reduced by 10thousand because it needs over/re plating - is this a good buy, all other things being equal?
Thanks,
John
Reduced by 10k from what to what? and have you had a survey done to give you an accurate picture of what work is required & the costs and hassle involved?
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I want doubleglazing in my sailaway, so I've looked at some of the window suppliers. I then went to Gordon and asked him if I could have a spare billion to do my windows. He said "Are you a *anker?" and I said "No", so he said "Sod off, then".
The prices are just beyond belief.
So, can nb window frames be made of wood instead of aluminium? Ignoring complications like hoppers for a minute. If so, what wood? And would it be cheaper? I can handle a router with no problems, but I'm ignorant about the properties of different woods.
I'm not worried about looking traditional. All I want is something that is tidy and practical that works ie is efficient at keeping heat in. I have a large window acreage. Or is that hectareage?
I can't believe its not been asked before but I've done a search without success.
Some members have used secondary glazing to great effect.
Have a search for that, or look at posts by Roger Gunkel, he supplied all the background data and suppliers details quite recently.
Here'a a link to the whole thread.
Morso Squirrel & Backboiler advice needed
in Boat Equipment
Posted
Completely unsure what the radiator cap with attached wires is doing.
I think that is a sensing thermostat that switches the circulating pump on once the water in the boiler reaches whatever temp it has been set to.
As Robbo said find and check the pump is working correctly, ours wasn't at first and could have been a disaster.
Also when replacing the rope seal around the glass, if it has a core running through it, remove it before fitting, I didn't and it took a while before reading a thread on here to find out why.
Refitted without and all is fine.
Do replace the glass if it's cracked which it appears to be from the pic.